Hi,

Your speaking of one of the short metal lines that runs a short distance-one part of rack to another part of the rack?

If this is what you are speaking of, try to find an answer in the archives because a year or two ago someone on here had the same problem that I remember reading about. I do remember his solution was using brake line.

Hope that helps,

Travis

Check those fittings carefully - on the 740, the threads are extra fine - replacements are not available for the fittings.

Also note that the rack metal is softer than the fittings - a prelude to disaster - very easy to damage the threads in the rack.

I recommend that you buy two preformed tubes from Volvo or some other OEM supplier.

On my 740, I purchased a tube for the one leaking, replaced it and the other tube sprung a leak!

The second tube required removal of the first tube - when I reinstalled the first tube, I cross-threaded one of the fittings.

I contacted several GOOD hardware supply houses, the super fine thread was not available. I spent about a month on this.

Result - rebuilt rack.

Replacing the tubes are relatively easy - BE CAREFUL!

Motor supported with hydralic jack under the oil pan. But I was careful toinclude some additional support before I put my fingers in there, like the tire jack or a piece of 1 by 6 and wooden wedge. Setting this additional support may be where I got the pinhole leak in one of the hydralic lines.

Regarding the mounts, I notice that Bentley was silent regarding their replacement. Except for the few pages were they discuss pulling the entire engine. Page 210-3: "Note the location of any spacers under the mounts so they can be reinstalled in the same position." This suggests to me that the factory mechanic is (or was) directed to install spacers, as necessary, to minimize contortion when the engine was first mated with the frame in 1993. This may or may not have been done, depending on how much schnaps ( or whatever they call it in Sweden) the mechanic drank the night before.

At any rate, I had two decapitated motor mounts( marked Volvo) and no spacers; and when I finally got the new mounts installed, I had plenty of contortion.( My 92 has no contortion and looks good for the life of the car.)
My plan is to drive the 93 for a week or so, then keeping it on 4 wheels, wiggle under there and insert spacers, as necessary, to remove this contortion. This should not be too difficult. There are three 15mm bolts to the frame and three 12mm bolts to the motor. May have to cut a chunk out of a few 15mm washers with a hack saw ( if these are not already available at Auto parts or hardware ). Then wait a few years and see how things look. My guess in that my two $5 motor mounts from eEuroparts will be OK.

Thanks for your comments.

Thanks for your comments.