Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 6/2007 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Different day, same problem 200 1986

Well, here's another follow up on the 245 shutting down suddenly. I posted a couple of weeks ago that the car has, for several years and through one complete fuel pump change, shut down periodically when the temperatures outside are running above 100 degrees and the engine temp is around 205 (mechanical read out). After posting that I thought that replacing the Ignition Control Module corrected the problem(it did improve the over all performance), The we had a 108 degree day with the pavement temps climbing above 130, and the little wagon shut off again. This time it wasn't abrupt, and it happened in a left hand turn which seemed to be in-tank pump related. I limped it the rest of the way back home on one cylinder, and then ordered two new fuel pumps and a new filter which I installed today. In my mind, if I have another occurrence, the only thing left to look at is the ECU since the fuel pump relays are in good shape.

I might mention that the car has a heavy turbo duty radiator and uses no fluids of any kind.

Comments are welcome.

Regards,








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Different day, same problem 200 1986

    "I might mention that the car has a heavy turbo duty radiator and uses no fluids of any kind."

    Ok, I am going to be the "one to bite" on your last line of the post. (: o)
    I hope you meant, it does not leak any fluids as radiators need something in them to work! (:-)

    It appears to me you are pretty sure its a gas issue from what you are saying. It acts out of gas or was limping home on a ECU/AMM which can feel like the same thing.

    Have you considered a vapor lock condition?
    Hot Roads mentioned and under hood temperatures can bring on vapor lock!

    Have you change the fuel filter/accumulator lately? It's down there by that hot road and "If" it is restricting the volume amount to the fuel rail then preheated gas will boil more easily. A reduced volume is also a reduced pressure and bubbles will form more easily.

    If you have changed that out.....?

    You could try putting some sticky insulation wrap about 1/4 inch thick onto the fuel rail at its connection point and backwards to the very end of the fuel rail near the firewall area.
    It works out to about a good six inches of length to cover the metal tube.
    If one had too, some bits regular fiber glass insulation wrapped with aluminum foil can do the job until a more waterproof or automotive type material could be utilized.

    The rubber line changes to metal right there.
    That rubber line is the highest point of the entire system.
    A fact of physics is....All bubbles will rise to the top or highest point of any liquid system because vapor has Less density, therefore, less gravitation pull.

    This happens while in a flowing motion too, trending higher inside the lines. As they accumulate they grow larger and are more susceptible to becoming superheated displacing more fuel volume.
    The logical reasoning for the insulation in that location!

    I have had it on my '86 so long I forgot that it was there. I used to live in Southern California when I got the car! The only car I have had to put it on too. None of the other cars I have picked up since, had to endure that hostile environment! (:/). Except my '78 K-jet.

    Running on two cylinders is bad enough that you would barely be able to drive it. On one cylinder I'll bet is impossible. You may have been alternating between to bad ones.
    I want to say the rear two ones as they are the first to get fed the least along the rail! They would be the path of least resistance for fluid to flow to fill a void created.


    Its worth a try!
    A lot cheaper than all new pumps and far easier to install.

    Phil








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Different day, same problem 200 1986

      Phil, you may be a genius! I had a friend that used to build performance cars down here tell me that even with 60 psi on the rail, the fuel system could vapor lock. I'm going to get some insulation the first thing Monday morning!

      I'll write the pumps, Ignition Control, and new filter off as necessary maintenance, but I''' bet that you are 100% correct.

      Many Thanks,








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Different day, same problem 200 1986

        Thanks, but we still do not know if its the problem. I am just trying to work with your descriptions of the moment at hand. Heat and fuel starvation.

        Another thing I remember doing to my '86 was to clean the the pins on the injectors with a cut down (narrowed) finger nail sanding board. Just give them a shine every few years.
        I also used the old style TV mechanical tuner cleaner spray on the clips up inside.
        Today you might have to suffice with a spurt of LPS 1.

        The stuff I am mentioning is not heat related issues.
        It is and was a cure for a miss almost every time I jumped onto a freeway on ramp.
        Especially for my rear injector clip. It seems that moisture or something liked to pick on it back there.

        I'll keep my fingers crossed for you to find a fix!
        Phil








        •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

          Different day, same problem 200 1986

          Hi Phil,

          I gave the old girl a romp around Odessa today with the temps hanging at 95 or so. The engine stayed below 195 so she was purring like a kitten. New pumps, new timing belt and seals, replaced Ignition Control computer with a known good one. Tomorrow I am going to insulated the fuel lines from the filter to the return side of the rail and wait for another 100+ day to try her out.

          I may install an electric fan in the front of the radiator with a temperature switch for long idle periods, but other than that, it seems that she is working like a Volvo should.

          Regards,








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Different day, same problem 200 1986

    This may sound like "diagnosis by parts replacement", but I'd suggest getting a known good ECU and swapping it in... See what happens.

    If no change then at least you have a working back up ECU, and having extra working parts is always good.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Different day, same problem 200 1986

      I have one in the back that will go in if this thing acts up again, which may be months down the road. :)

      Regards,








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Different day, same problem 200 1986

        If it were me I would swap in the new spare now and maybe this won't happen again!
        Dan








        •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

          Different day, same problem 200 1986

          Good point, but then I wouldn't know if the fuel pump change cured the problem. :) Besides, why would a left hand turn kill the ECU? I'm thinking of a new Audi if my book sales keep climbing. LOL!

          Regards,







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.