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Good Morning,
The clutch is not operating on 93 green sedan even when jumped with power. I've checked and provided an alternate ground too, but the AC clutch will not energize.
I also checked the pressure at the schrader valve near the dryer and I've got pressure, so at this stage, I'd just like to replace the AC clutch. But alas, I am having difficulty finding one. If anyone has done this job on a 93, could you give me a heads up on a clutch along with any notes from their work.
Thank you much,
Marty Wolfson
Proud member of the 300K club x2
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I need to bluntly caution you to forget about replacing the clutch only.
Save yourseslf the grief, and replace the compressor which will come with a new clutch. Once you go to the trouble of finding a clutch which will be around $100 plus the correct puller (Matco Tool for $12) you will most likely find the compressor failing in short time afterwards. As said replacing the clutch on a compresor in the car is a PITA, bt, dt.
The D-K'S are a great compressor, cast iron cores, used on all models 85 up until Volvo in their brilliance in '92 changed the fittings from SAE to Metric, and did away with the fittings on the back of the compressor for high side fill and evacuate. The Seiko is the new version of the D-K, having alumnimum core shaft,(also uses a different clutch) and fails in about 1/2 the time of the D-K. Otherwise they are the same. Any aftermarket compressor is just as good as the OEM Seiko, and will last just as long. I would not waste the effort (which is more than 50% cost of the job, or your time if you know how to do it properly) on a used compressor.
I put in a new (not reman) Omega compressor after my failed D-K on the 91 245, and has been running fine for 5 yrs, This done after the futile replacement of said clutch 22k miles earlier.
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Thanks Pete,
I'm a neophyte when it comes to AC work. So your thoughts are very much appreciated.
With the hose ends metric, I'm concerned about a replacement compressor having the correct fittings. I also refer you to an old post with someone replacing the pulley bearing. I get the impression that clutch replacement isn't so difficult on a 93............ https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/760085/experience_replacing_pulley_bearing_seiko_seiki_ac_compressor.html
Trust me, I'm not trying to be stubborn, but replacing the clutch for say $100 looks to be a lot more appealing than spending the dough for a a new compressor (if I can get one with the proper fittings) new drier and the labor for the install along with the evacuation, R134A, oil, etc.
Please excuse my ignorance if I am under some foolish misconception. Again, I know ever so little about AC. Of course, maybe it's time to learn, but I learn hard.
Thanks again,
Marty
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93 model years came with two different brands of AC compressors....at least the 940's did.
What brand and model number is yours.
It's on the side of the compressor.
steve
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Hi Steve,
The compressor is Part # 6841028 Seiko Seiki
Marty
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Yes I have a compressor I pulled off an '87 wagon. This compressor was in the way of me getting a engine harness. It was black with engine oil drippings but the casing told me it was a Diesel Kiki.
So thinking to myself..... if I got to pull it I am buying it, on this 50% off day!
A sucker I am for a "greed" deal!
As I popped bolts and shifted things down and around a tag on the back said "York Automotive." I felt like grumbling but darn it, I am black up to my elbows its going home!
I get home and put that greasy black pig in the kerosene to soak. I started scrubbing on it later...Low and behold it was a Diesel Kiki made in japan compressor. It just had a sticker to the contrary.
I also had troubles getting seal for an earlier '91 Diesel Kiki from AC Source.com and had to shuffle my old seal back to them to get the right ones.
After this later on fiasco above, I can see why they had the headache getting the cross references correct!
I still have to pull off the clutch plate and see if it uses the seals I have now though!
I believe they have gotten their pictures and part numbers corrected now. They charged me a little too much in the beginning but they lost the little extra profit they would have had in overall shipping costs. So I can say they did right by me!
Their prices are in-line with others on this listing of the part number shown.
DKS15BH Shaft Seal (SK-722N)
SK-722N
DKS15BH Shaft Seal
But mine did not come with a new felt dust shield packet that these look like they have. (:-(
As life goes sometimes!
Phil
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I know you said you provided an alternate grounding circuit for the magnetic coil in the clutch.
When you said you "jumped" I assume you mean you used a + positive wire straight from the battery to connector. It should have clicked.
Either the wire going into the magnetic coil is broken or the coil itself has an internal open wire.
The break can be within the turns of wire that makes up the coil.
In other words it may have burned open or just plain out right broke apart inside.
Yes, you can but a whole used compressor at salvage yards for the price of the magnetic coil alone. Just an investment in the hunt and pulling labor is a difference. You also get the pulley & running bearing underneath that are fairly expensive by themselves.
In either case, a puller is used to remove the clutch plate from the shaft to get to the coil underneath. If you have to by the puller you get to use it twice! Changing the coil does not require any work with with the refrigerant gas!
The clutch mechanism should be the same through the years as long as the compressor brands are the same. Even then, I think most of the coils are the same if the clutch plate changes due to shaft and seal variations.
As a note,
I have seen the same coil packs on lawn tractors Power Take Off's or PTO's to run the mowing decks. Their as popular and cheap as the popcorn found on the floors of walk-in theaters!
Someone might have them in a pile for $5 or less!
Guess I am saying, "There are lots of options!"
Phil
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A note on replacing the clutch. I've never had one go in the first time and get the shim spacing right. In most cases the removal, re-shim and re-installation of the clutch takes a few times, so it can really be a PITA when the compressor is in the car. This is a bench procedure, and if you have to remove the compressor, you may as well re-build it or get a new one with the new clutch.
There's a reason why you can't find the clutch separately, although I found one from SGS Fridgette, for $89 and had to have a A/C account dealer special order it.
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You are right about getting the clutch plate shimmed off the pulley face correctly might be a pain in the tush.
For me a depth micrometer works wonders. I measure from the end of the shaft to the pulley face for one dimension. The other is to the bottom where the shim goes and get the stand off to be .015 to .020.
I also have a very short plate puller setup that I made for myself. It fits between any tight quarters of radiators and most fenders of FWD's that I will not work on if I can get out of it!
In his case a "coil change out" would not affect that shim spacing as the original clutch pack will go right back on in it original place.
I cannot say how long any compressors will last on any car as the use factors vary wildly. The clutch coil can have the same life expectancy IMHO.
As you said "quality" can vary.
So can the servicing personnel doing a repair job.
Phil
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Thanks for the responses, guys. I wonder if I should get a used compressor ebay style, pull the clutch off and go from there.
If I get a compressor, and want to replace the compressor, I can't do the work.
Marty
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I don't have a 240 but was in the same boat with my 940 a few years back. The price of a clutch is about the same as an aftermarket clutch/compressor unit. Not a fun job with capturing the refrigerant and evacuating the system, but replacing the clutch alone is not fun either while the compressor is on the car. A local a/c shop can make the refrigerant part a snap.
--
94 944 n/a 280,000 miles and counting; 92 745T 150,000 (sold; went to a good, new home); 03 Odyssey for the wife
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First, I have no idea whether the compressor is the same make/style as on my 1985 Volvo. It was a change from the previous year which used the venerable York compressor.
The job was a bit of a chore, but the refrigerant did not need to be removed from the system.
Diesel Kiki was the brand and that name caused me no end of trouble when I called around for the part. After carefully describing the make, model and year of my car, most parts guys would invariably respond "So your car is a diesel."
That replacement was done at about 90K and the compressor and clutch are still going strong 24 years and 130K later.
Tatra Mike
Seattle, Washington
1985 244 "Alfsen" (wife's car - the good one)
1984 245 "Buster" (the kid's car, now sold)
1985 245 "Cosmo" (parts car, sold off for move to WA)
1985 245 "Daisy" (back seat down, full of tools, the work truck)
1985 245 "Earl (CA vehicle 'retirement' program)
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