My passenger turn signal fails to work properly.

Bulbs seem good.

Bulb out relay was on, all bulbs good.

Then all signals failed.

Changed bulb out sensor, changed bulb relay. Things stabilized, but bulb out light blinks now in time with left turn signal, and turn signal fails when brake is pressed.

4 way flashers work, until you press on brake.

I'm going to change bulbs. All light fixtures are not suffering from water which is good, no real corrosion I see.

Thanks

Well the problem was that the u haul hitch break circuit control module was defective.

It had an internal short that was intermittent. So that is why I was getting fluky results in troubleshooting.

I cut it out, everything is fine.

So I spliced in a spare from the parts bin, and we are back in business.


Thanks

Eric

Sounds like problem is related to brake pedal switch.

A wiring diagram is needed, but also look at fuse panel label to see what is connected to turn signals and brake pedal light switch.

Also, all of the turn signal bulbs should be identical part numbers, for example 1156, no mixing
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White bulb holder on wrong (left) side?

White holder goes on right side. Improper placement causes all sorts of goofy light issues.

No, the circuit boards have not changed locations.

Car is a sedan.

New bulbs have not corrected the issue, I'll look at grounds next.

Eric

I wasn't referring to the circuit boards. I was referring to the removable bulb holders that fit into the boards. In a sedan (200,700,900) one of the bulb holders on the passenger side is white. All of the other bulb holders are black.

That white holder is location specific - it's not interchangeable with a black bulb holder.

Dear Adirondacker,

Hope you're well. It is always worthwhile to clean the ground contacts. Corrosion need not be visible to disrupt a circuit. A layer of oxide only a few molecule thick will block the flow of current.

On wagons, the ground wire connects each light cluster ground strip to a point on the quarter panel, just forward of the light cluster opening. Removing the screw and cleaning the contact - and the underside of the screw head - might cure the rear light malfunctions.

Once the contacts have been cleaned, apply a thin layer of di-electric grease. When the screw is tightened, it will extrude extra grease, as a metal-to-metal contact is made. That extra grease seals the connection against water vapor, which create corrosion, when it reacts with metals.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook