Volvo RWD 444-544 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 6/2017 444-544 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Engine racing B16b twin carb 444-544 1969

posted by  arcturus on  Sun Apr 20 02:30 CST 2014
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Tue Jul 8 01:55 CST 2014
[RELATED]

Hi again, I seem to be going round in circles. I have re built the carbs,New needles and jets, sorted the floats and cleaned every thing up.The problem is I can't get the engine to run over at a reasonable tick over.With the stops backed right off it still seems to race, don't have a rev counter but it feels like about 1200 rpm. I slowed it down by retarding ignition but then I have starting and carb spiting back problems.I have advanced again a bit to sort that out but I can't get e reasonable tick over speed. O yes, sometimes it seems to hunt, speeds up a bit more and slows down a bit. What should I be looking at next? The only thing I haven't done is replaced the pistons, There is some wear but not sure how much that affects things. Help and advice appreciated.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

    posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

    Could also be that the throttle valves are not closing completely. The throttle linkage needs a little bit of slack at idle to allow the idle adjusters to control the last bit of travel.

    And if the throttle valve discs are not centered properly, or the shafts are not quite centered (worn and sagging) then one edge will hit the wall of the carb body and leave the other side gapped open.
    --
    '63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)



    Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

      posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

      Get new springs for your distributor and check that the vacuum advance canister is not pulling at idle. Check it all with a timing light



      Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

    posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

    I'd think your problem is an induction air leak. could be at carb flanges, or betwixt manifold and head. Could also be a leaky vacuum hose or fitting on intake manifold. Could also be loose throttle butterfly shaft bushings, although this one would more likely be the cause for uneven idling - if the butterflies are completely closed, I wouldn't think that bushings would admit enough air unless they're REALLU loose.
    If you get all the air shut off, the engine will stop. If closing the throttles doesn't do it, then the air is coming from somewhere else. Spraying WD-40 on suspected leak sources will likely prove revealing when engine is "idling."
    Good luck with it!
    ps



    Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

    posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

    I still think you have a vacuum leak.
    Have you ever had the intake manifold off to check for tru-ness? The aluminum intake on my B16 needed to be touched up some.

    My manifolds also had 2 ports, maybe yours does? What about the advance diaphragm? Does that hold vacuum?
    --
    "Differences of opinions should be tolerated, but not if they're too different' - Sharon Craig



    Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

      posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

      I will check manifold with carb cleaner spray. Vac advance seems ok with suck test



      Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

        posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

        Do you have vacuum leaks from the throttle shafts? You did not mention whether you installed new shafts and new shaft bushings.

        You can use carb cleaner to check the throttle shafts.

        I have also seen the balance tube on the intake manifold crack so check with carb cleaner.
        --
        Eric

        Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)

        Torrance, CA 90502



        Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.





        •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

          posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

          Yes , new shafts and bushes. I have replaced the original metal tubing from carb vac to vac advance with rubber type vac tube. I found the metal to ungainly, difficult to connect. Will definitely re check all for air/vac leaks



          Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.




<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.