|
|
|
The engine currently will not turn while trying to turn it over with a socket on the crankshaft and a cheater bar.
Any ideas, the engine has sat for about 5 years.
Thanks
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
Ok runs great now had to replace the injectors as a couple appeared to be plugged or at least partially. Used the set from my daughters wrecked donor, that car has supplied a lot of parts to this resurrection so she gets all the best her old one had to offer back again!
On to the brakes, some fluid flushing, lights are an issue but I think I have spares where there is a problem.
Thanks all for the help and encouragement.
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
Wow! That's good news. Another worthy car saved from an untimely demise. Just another story that proves most of these Volvos are tougher than a fifty cent steak.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I just saw this and by now you may have all the advice you want. But:
I've freed up several motors, some that were sitting 25+ years. I like to soak and turn a little bit each day; or several times/ day if you can. I soak in oil thinned with diesel, oil, ATF. I use the flywheel to turn and then I use the starter to crank it a good bit.
When I get it running, I get it to operating temp, run a tube from a vacuum port to a can of diesel or kerosene and let it be drawn slowly into the running engine. Makes much smoke. Then I change the oil.
The feed of the kerosene into the motor washes past the stuck rings and helps remove gunk & scale.
If the rings are really gunked up, solvent will be drawn past them into the oil pan. Keep an eye on that.
--
240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio
|
|
-
|
|
|
Have you taken out the spark plugs and tried?
|
|
-
|
|
|
Yes I have and put some MMO in the cylinders yesterday
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
It could still be just rusted pistons or rings -- PB Blaster in the cylinders might be a good releaser. But if you're confident with MMO (I'm not familiar with that), then the next step might be testing to see what part of the engine is being held back.
To know what's locked up, I'd say the next step is to remove the timing belt -- to isolate the possibilities: whether it's something on the crankshaft (e.g., pistons, etc.), camshaft (e.g. stuck valve), or even intermediate shaft (e.g., oil pump, distributor). The latter two might let you turn them (if you're lucky :-) with a socket wrench), much like the former should have, and this will get you closer to the answer.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I put about 20 ml of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder last night, today I put a good dose of PB Blaster.
At this point I will give it a while before doing any disassembly, it does appear to be the crankshaft or something attached to it.
Thanks
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
Remove the starter and pry the motor clockwise and a counter-clockwise using the teeth on the flywheel. You will have more leverage than trying from the crankshaft bolt. If the motor is seized from rust in the cylinders this method allows you to move in each direction in small amounts. It took me one day to loosen a Triumph GT6 motor standing for over 10 years. When it gets so you can inch it around a full revolution then you can go back to the front pulley. -- Dave
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks for the tip, would this give me more leverage than about 3 1/2 feet of breaker and cheater bar?
Nothing has changed after overnight PP Blaster soak, is there another product that might be better?
Thanks
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
It might. You would be, in effect, applying a lever (the crowbar or large screwdriver) to turn another lever (the flywheel), so you end up multiplying the mechanical advantages of each.
You know the radius of the flywheel; now it all depends on where you can leverage the screwdriver or crowbar -- i.e., at what point on the screwdriver (distance from the tip) is your fulcrum, and how long is the remaining length of the screwdriver from that fulcrum to the handle?
Have fun.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I don't know the mathematical, geometrics and physics of it--but yes, you will get more leverage prying at the flywheel -- and as was pointed out - the ability to work in both directions. With the GT6 I could not budge the crank from the pulley bolt at all - but got it to move right away from the flywheel. Small bites will get you there. -- Dave
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks Dave, ultimately removing the starter was what began the process. I was only able to move the flywheel in one direction mostly because I could not see the other side but once it moved in small steps about 25 times it was free enough to move it around from the crankshaft nut with a breaker bar and cheater bar.
I did have a ratcheting tie down strap with a great deal of pressure on the crank bolt as I moved it in ever so small increments. I have a concoction of marvel mystery oil, PB Blaster, and acetone in each Cylinder. Now I can rotate it with a 1/2" drive ratchet without any cheater bar attached.
It seems like I should flush the engine with something like diesel fuel to help clean the inside a bit, any suggestions? How would I clean the diesel out prior to adding oil?
Thanks to all who contributed.
Dan
|
|
-
-
|
|
|
I'm not sure I would use that, heard some horror stories.
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
Your best bet at this point is to insure the fuel is clean, the engine oil is clean, and run it. I usually stay within towing distance for the first few weeks.
Yes, the coolant is old and needs a flush. Ditto for the brake fluid.
The ATF doesn't get 'old' with time, but I would run the car for a while before flushing it.
--
My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat
|
|
-
|
|
|
Fuel is fresh and clean as are both pumps and filter, I will flush the fuel line between the tank and main pump hook it up and flush a little at the fuel rail to make sure it is clean and getting to the rail.
Oil and filter are new but probably has some residual PB Blaster and such from freeing the engine up.
Thanks
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
So far so good.
Once the MMO, etc. gets pumped out of the cylinders I would just run it with some motor flush in the oil. Draining the oil and refilling it with diesel fuel won't do much and I wouldn't be brave enough to run it with just diesel in the crankcase. Maybe add a little diesel to the oil and run it, but if it results in your own exploded view of the motor, I don't know anything about it.
On a related note: The neighbor brought me a Honda generator that was blowing oil. It turns out the fuel tank was draining into the case if the fuel was not shut off. What came out was mostly fuel. The motor had been run. The insides were spotless and it did not seem to damage anything i.e. good compression and not a lot of metal in the oil. I should cut the filter apart.
Greg
|
|
-
|
|
|
I wasn't think of actually running the engine, just circulating it but from what I have seen that's probably a wasted effort.
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
Good job on getting it free'd up. The only thing left to do is start it.
For years I've heard of all these magic oils and fluids used in engines. It's all myth, and some are harmful. Use engine oil in the engine. Not diesel, not ATF, not anything else. Maybe 10W-30 but whatever use engine oil.
The sticking was probably rings rusted onto the cylinder walls. I've seen that before. When you start it the rust will be quickly rubbed off and hopefully the rings aren't stuck in the piston ring grooves. For sure it's going to make metal, rust and other crap. If you aren't going to dismantle it, then start it and see. Run it on engine oil for half an hour or so there isn't any optimum time. After it has run and is hot, drain the oil, change the filter, and with new oil and filter drive it for a while. Maybe change the oil soon, maybe not. There is no way of knowing. All you will know is if the pistons slap, or there is even compression, or if it burns oil. The engine will probably survive and run for a while.
Good luck. It's probably fine.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks Peetz
I will run it and change the oil and filter.
I hope it runs for a while it only has about 145K miles on it. It felt good getting it moving as I have been working on the car for the last month or so getting it road ready. I was ready to start it when I discovered it was frozen.
About the only things left to do is a brake fluid, coolant and trans flush.
Thanks
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
You've got a plan which is great. Remember it's like triage. Get it running and see that the engine is ok, and then do the coolant and trans, then the brake fluid.
I've started cars that have been up to fifteen years parked in a garage. They start, and usually run ok. Cars can't tell time. People "anthropomorphize" cars too much.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks Dave I will give it a try.
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
I think the idea is to work the crank back and forth a little.
With old tractors that are stuck the cylinders are loaded with a 50:50 mixture of ATF and acetone. A weight is hung on the end of a 4' pipe connected to the crankshaft. The set up is left for a few weeks. Unless it is really stuck, it will come loose.
That could be hard to do with the fenders in place, but maybe you could use a ratchet strap to keep pressure on the crank while the oil seeps into the rings.
Patience will get it done.
Greg
|
|
-
|
|
|
Greg
Strap is a good idea and I think I will add some acetone to the mix.
Thanks
Dan
|
|
-
|
|
|
.....or taken out the spark plugs, sprayed a boatload of penetrating oil in the holes, let it sit for a day or so, and THEN tried?
B
|
|
|
|
|
