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Front Engine Seal Questions 900

posted by  Hoola on  Mon Mar 24 07:24 CST 2014
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last visit: Sun Apr 13 17:42 CST 2014
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Hello. 1994 Volvo 940 non turbo 286,000 miles. I am in midst of timing belt & oil seals(3x)replacement.

Question 1 : I removed metal cover plate that goes over crankshaft and intermediate shaft. In doing so ruined gasket that goes between this cover plate and engine block. How important is this gasket ? There is no pressure here. In fact it is open on bottom. Can I just fabricate one out of thick paper ? Or should I just order one and wait to finish this job ?

Question 2 : Just how far in should I push new seals ? Ones in there are pretty much flush to front. However I note they could be pushed in further. As much as a 1/2" further for Cam & Intermediate and as much as an inch for crank seals.

Thanks very much for advice & replys.








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    Front Engine Seal Questions 900

    posted by  Will740turbo on  Mon Mar 24 11:22 CST 2014
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    last visit: Wed Oct 22 16:09 CST 2014
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    I would order a new seal, one that's not open at the bottom if others are sure it shouldn't be open there. I'm sure you could make out of thick paper, but how much trouble was it to get to this point in the repair, and do you want to save $10 to risk having to do it again?

    On pushing the seals in, there's info on that about the Rear Main Seal (RMS). The rule of thumb I remember is that you just care that the sealing surface is clean, smooth, and not worn smaller than the rest of the shaft.
    I took this to translate to a) remove any rust with a scouring pad or 00/000 steel wool and b)Push the seal in about 1/2 to 1 seal width past its original position.

    The seal actually has a lip on it that's in about the middle of the seal body. This lip is what seals and needs a smooth surface to ride on. As long as you get that past (or less deep than) heavily worn spots, it should work for you.

    The farther in you put it, the harder it will be to get it out.

    To keep the seal from flipping inside out, I found it useful to stick a lubricated piece of plastic rolled into a cone/cylinder to help install the seal. The RMS comes with a little plastic piece that can be used to help install it, and I basically just made my own for the front cam seal.

    Good luck!








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    Front Engine Seal Questions 900

    posted by  Swedish Baklava on  Mon Mar 24 10:36 CST 2014
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 06:40 CST 2014
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    Hi Hoola,

    "How important is this gasket?"

    If you don't install it correctly, the oil will leak. My Volvo part guys recommended me to tigthen the bolts on the engine block first, then the bolts for oil pan. The oil pan flange will flex but the not engine block. You need to trim the excessive gasket on the bottom (see picture) and apply sealant on each corner. I had to do it twice because I didn't know how. Not fun.


    "In fact it is open on bottom."

    Can you explain?

    photo seal1_zpsf2d4c188.jpg

    https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1564101/220/240/260/280/re_87_245_auto_replacing_oil_seals_seal_plate_please_dont.html








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      Front Engine Seal Questions 900

      posted by  someone claiming to be hoola on  Mon Mar 24 11:10 CST 2014 [RELATED]

      Thanks for replies. New gasket I have on order shows that this gasket is horeshoe shaped and open/no gasket at bottom where it would meet oil pan. This is why I though maybe this gasket is not that important. Thought maybe by design it is meant to allow oil to seep/drip out of its bottom.

      What type of sealant should I use on bottom corners ? Maybe I should seal entire bottom left to right ??

      Thanks again for replies.








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        Front Engine Seal Questions 900

        posted by  Swedish Baklava on  Mon Mar 24 11:42 CST 2014
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        last visit: Fri Oct 24 06:40 CST 2014
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        Hi Hoola,


        I see... That's correct.

        The bottom of your oil seal plate mates with the front/top of the oil pan flange. Please go look at your oil pan flange, you will see the gasket on top. Mine was grey foam like. Can you confirm that you have the gasket there?


        I used a tube of Permatex Black Silicone sealant. I only applied a little to the back side where I trimmed the gasket. It's an option, I heard some people do and some people don't.


        http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/adhesives-sealants/sealants/permatex--black-silicone-adhesive-sealant-detail







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          Front Engine Seal Questions 900

          posted by  someone claiming to be Hoola on  Mon Mar 24 13:00 CST 2014 [RELATED]

          Hi again. Got it. My oil pan gasket is black colored. Probably because of oil seal leak discoloring it. But it is there and in goods shape. Wonder why Volvo uses that gasket to seal this metal cover/plate. You would think that instead of leaving metal cover/plate gasket open at bottom that they would make it complete and have it seal metal cover/plate. Thanks.








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            Front Engine Seal Questions 900

            posted by  Amarin on  Thu Mar 27 18:24 CST 2014
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            last visit: Thu Oct 23 22:42 CST 2014
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            Hello,

            To answer your question, Volvo uses a gasket between the metal plate and engine block because both are dissimilar metals: engine block - cast iron, metal plate - aluminium. Different metals expend differently when heated. So a gasket is used to maintain the seal. In comparison to an all-aluminium engine, such gasket is rarely needed. Instead, a pliant (non-hardening) sealing compound is used to maintain the seal such as Yamabond, Reinzosil etc.

            I think the metal plate is made separate on the front (and there's another at the back holding the rear crank seal) of engine to facilitate removing the crank during engine rebuild.

            Yes, you could make your own gasket but preferably using an oil resistant paper such as Flexoid gasket paper. It is sold by rolls or measurement. Similar paper should be available at your local auto-spares store. I used this to make the valve cover gasket.

            Regards,

            Amarin.







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