I bought this particular specimen about a year ago, an '88 245, and slowly but surely it has been handing jobs to do. Luckily it has been spacing them out far enough that I don't grow so frustrated as to throw in the towel.

After work the other day I started the car to head home, and after a few moments it started to miss rather heavily at idle. I prodded the throttle a few times and it seemed to settle down a smidgen, after which I rolled out onto the roads, albeit with less than stellar throttle response. I made it home fine, but felt that a repair was looming on the horizon. Back into town, I added about 3 gallons of fuel, after which he, Sherman, was back to winning ways. Great throttle response, eager kickdown acceleration, and smooth running.

I started thinking about this change in behaviour and noted to myself that when the symptoms had started the fuel gauge was showing a little less than half and he was parked nose uphill. Not a steep grade, but noteworthy nonetheless. I came to the conclusion that the rubber tube linking the feed pump to the hard line on the sender had become perforated. I imagined the pictures I saw on cleanflametrap.com similar to what likely resides in my fuel tank.

Well, today the symptoms presented themselves again, but this time it was as I pulled away from a light and heading slightly uphill. The engine momentarily fell flat on it's face and lumbered along for a few moments afterward. Being a block from a fuel station, I pulled in and added fuel. Voila, problem gone.

Looks like I'll be keeping my tank full for a bit, until I can get parts and repair it.

I'll likely get the IPD in-tank pump upgrade kit


I believe the only thing this kit will upgrade is ipd's bottom line.

A stock 240 tank pump will work just fine and there's no need for modification of the sending unit. I've also had good service from Airtex tank pumps.

I notice ipd doesn't list a manufacturer. They only state that it's aftermarket. That would make me a bit leery.

This is just one opinion, of course. Maybe someone else has used this kit and can talk about it from real experience.


--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

Eeuroparts offers AC branded pumps. If you had to choose between AC and Airtex, which would emerge the winner?

I wouldn't hesitate to use either one.

I have the Airtex in both my cars. When the no-name brand tank pump I got from FCP for the '89 wagon conked out after about a month I decided to try them after seeing them mentioned by Art in this forum. I have no complaints.

AC was one of the OE brands used by Volvo (and several other makes) and they get recommended more often than Airtex. VDO was the other OE tank pump but I don't think they have been made for a long time.

It would probably come down to dollars and cents with Airtex being the winner. But I haven't really looked at priced lately.

I looked again at your response to riverbend and, in your place, I would open the tank, inspect and replace the hose, if need be, and go with the working pump until it decides to quit.

Removing the sending unit is no picnic, but it's no ordeal, either, IMO. I find it's mainly uncomfortable.


--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

Good advice, and thanks for your opinion on pumps. I've always been the kind of person to do multiple repairs at a time, but I might just save a few dollars this time around and just do the hose.

I need to get a tool for removing the bung nut, as well as a sealing ring and the hose. The tool for the bung nut I see as a must have, as I intend to keep this car a while! I've always been a Saab guy, but I have a soft spot for 240's too.

As a side note, I always run Lucas Fuel Treatment, under the premise that it helps keep the fuel pumps happy. I also notice smoother engine operation, and a marginal MPG increase.

Thanks, Bulletproof.

Given the pucker factor of working around explosive environments I like to replace everything while I am in there the first time.

I bought a similar bung like tool from Home depot's plumbing department that has worked OK in the past. I can't find it at the moment or remember what it is called but it was recommended here on the BB.

Dan

You are certainly welcome. And by extension, when you thank me you are thanking all those here from whom I learned most of this stuff.

About the tool...you certainly need something. And ipd's price is almost reasonable compared to some of their products. But how often will you use it?

Have you seen Art's 240 pages? Specifically http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm concerning you're current current repair.

Actually, check them all out. http://www.cleanflametrap.com/#links.

Back to the pump. Somewhere in the middle of the pics is a method for removing the bung nut using stuff you may already have. Look for the two arm puller. Further down from that is the method in action. That might save you a couple of bucks.

Some folks here use a brass drift (no sparks that way) and just drive the lock ring loose with a hammer.



--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

So cleanflamtrap is Art?! Man, I have referred to that site many times since taking ownership of this car. The work he has put into the site is amazing.

I agree. The Airtex tank pump (E8778) feels like one of my better decisions, now that a few years have passed and I check them at each oil change. "Upgrade" is a sales word.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Every calendar's days are numbered.

Although I have 2 or 3 spare used pumps all AC that work fine I just ordered 2 Airtex from Amazon for $34 each.
Dan

If you listen to the filler tube you can hear if the in tank pump is running. If it is, you are probably right about the rubber connection being bad.

Greg

Hi Greg,

I pulled #4 fuse and did the jumper test from #6 earlier in the week. Both pumps run, but I'll likely get the IPD in-tank pump upgrade kit. They offer a kit that replaces the stock pump with a 740 turbo pump, along with a length of SAE 30R10 submersible fuel hose and a new filter sock.

I figure if I'm going to dig in, it would be foolish not to replace the pump.

don't forget to order a new seal for the sending unit.