Scantech or URO are taboo when it comes to rubber components. And yes heat to get the TAB out

re: rear trailer arm bushings

having done this job too many times i have found 3 basic methods to remove them IF they still have inner as well as shell integrity.

1. the tool to pull them out
2. an air chisel with these or variations of these attachments

http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-PC-CHISELING-BIT-ATTACHMENTS-FOR-AIR-HAMMER-CHISEL-PUNCH-METAL-CUTTER-TOOL-SET-/281088088645?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item417227da45

3. an acetylene torch

sometimes variation on all 3.

the acetylene torch must be used carefully since the plastic tubing which houses the e brake cable is next door and will melt in an instant

i have found the air chisel to be very effective provided you have a compressor with sufficient air production to make the chisel operate efficiently

for argument sake lets say you have this tool. . what you want to do is crush the integrity of the shell at either axle loop. by doing this you will break the bushing free as it sits in the axle loops.

if you have neither acetylene or an air chisel powered by a decent compressor you're in for a long afternoon imo and maybe one with an unhappy ending.

to remove bushings from the torque rods of panhard rod you NEED a shop press 12 ton or bigger or if you have a C frame used to install ball joints

http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-4065.html#.UyrpFqJlSVk

this can work as well.

install of the bushings is much easier than un install.

you can also burn out the bushing part leaving only the shell and then use a reciprocating saw to cut through CAREFULLY the thin remaining shell and then hammer it out