Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 9/2022 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Spacers ... what spacers? 200 1983

Hey All, I just replaced most of my front suspension on the wagon - struts, strut mounts, control arm bushings, ball joints and outer tie rod ends. The steering rack is next 'cause it has just sprung a leak, doggone it! Guess I'll wait a little longer on the new tires and alignment.

Here's my conundrum - When I buttoned everything up and went for a test drive, the driver side was as quiet as a mouse, but the passenger side has an annoying rattle going over bumps at low speed. I assure you, everything is torqued to spec and the top nut is plenty tight. I've done the search here and have come up with the possibility that there may be a lack of spacer issue with the right side strut insert perhaps?

This is not the first time I have done a strut replacement on one of my bricks, yet I have never seen one of these spacers, and assume they reside at the bottom of the strut tube, correct? How do I know if it's in there or not? Good flashlight, I'm guessing. I did notice one thing - I was able to screw the gland nut a little further on the offending side (it did not bottom out, though). Could that be a clue? If the lack of a spacer turns out to be my problem, is this the part I need?
http://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/245/?utf8=%E2%9C%93&keywords=strut+spacer&year=1983&m=142&e=914

Thanks, Jim








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Spacers ... what spacers? 200 1983

    Try a washer or two just below the nut on the shaft of the strut.
    Dan








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Sadly, additional washer not the answer 200 1983

      I added another top nut washer (for a total of two) and ran the nut down at far as it would go with my impact tool. Unfortunately, it had no effect on the rattle. Any further ideas would be appreciated - Jim








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Sadly, additional washer not the answer 200 1983

        Boy, you sure a interesting scenario going on there!

        What shape are your bushings that hold the front stabilizer, anti roll bar, to the frame of the car?

        Are the bushings on the both ends of the end links that connect to the stabilizer in good shape.

        If the flat ones on top are not nice and plump, they will make a squeaking sound that will come and go. They can drive you nuts without you having any loose washers up stairs! II(:-)

        I lube all the rubbers with a silicone grease that will not soften rubber and is rather inert. It's used on "O" rings by plumbers.

        If you had a loose cartridge body would it not be more like metallic clunk or thump? If the cartridge went totally flat of gas or oil charge that might explain a rattle inside itself. You know the valving mechanisms internally sloshing around. A sloshy and squishy sound of a shot shock absorber. Not a rattle?
        It would not stay extended either but the cartridge housing should be locked in, top to bottom.

        I cannot imagine the spring bopping around but the coil endings should be located in a pocket stop on the lower half of the strut. Unless the orientation if off just enough to make it set crooked. Still, I think it would make a popping sound like a cracked spring?

        A rattle to me is more of a tinny sound. Like a loose dust shield behind the brakes? Could there be a crack in one. Very Rare indeed. Exhaust heat shield could work?

        I think I painted enough oddities with my armchair imagination. I am really curious though to what you will find.
        Good luck and happy hunting!

        Phil








        •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

          Sadly, additional washer not the answer 200 1983

          My bushings are now all in good shape. I have heavy duty IPD sway bars with polyurethane bushings. Maybe a clatter is a more appropriate description of the sound I'm hearing. There is a concrete cattle guard at the end of my driveway and the best place to experience this noise. When my son returns from the SXSW Festival in Austin next week, perhaps I can persuade him to pinpoint the location of the sound while I inch back and forth over the cattle guard.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Spacers ... what spacers? 200 1983

      Hi Dan, I'm assuming you mean the top nut under the hood, right? It does have one fairly thick washer already. I noticed that when I initially ran the nut on with my impact wrench, the washer still moved around, so I tightened it until the washer would no longer move.








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Spacers ... what spacers? 200 1983

        That's the one. I have quieted a rattle down by adding additional washers.

        I would make sure the gland nut is tight as well.

        Dan








        •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

          Spacers ... what spacers? 200 1983

          Thanks, Dan, I'll certainly give that a try. I really don't want to disassemble any more than necessary! I'll let you know how things turn out.








          •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

            Spacers ... what spacers? 200 1983

            I would say if you have spacers at the bottom of the tube it would be hard to get only one out. Some shocks are shorter and may need these spacers. If one side is quiet the problem is likely not with the spacer.
            Dan








            •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

              Spacers ... what spacers? 200 1983

              is the nut you're running down with an impact a nylon inserted lock nut? if it is the speed at which the nut is turning can melt the nylon and seize the threads. it will feel tight without bottoming out.








              •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

                Spacers ... what spacers? 200 1983

                Volvo don't quote a specific torque for the shock nut. They just say "tighten". It only needs enough to stop the rod moving up and down so with suitable washers and the nyloc nut, 25-30 ft/lbs should be fine.







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.