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Is it possible to seize an oil pump? I'm trying to figure out if I did that accidentally.
Basically, I had my project 240 in my garage for the past 8 months. During the 8 months the vehicle was not moved or started. I did an oil change right when I pulled it in (8 months ago). A few months later I noticed a pool of oil below the engine. I found that I had not tightened the oil pan bolt enough and it leaked for several months. I tightened the nut more and checked the oil level and it appeared to be within tolerance. Then last week I decided to pull it out to clean up the oil spot.
Before starting it after 8 months, I checked the fuel pumps and found the in-tank pump not running (again). I had problems with the pumps last year. The fuel tank had been pulled and sat outside with fuel in it. When it was re-installed, the smell of the gas was really bad, so it was dumped, but the smell remained even now. I pulled the in-tank pump and got it working again but did still smell that bad gas smell in the tank. I put it all back together and was able to start the vehicle fairly easily. I pulled it out and let it run for 20-30 minutes until it came up to operating temp. I could hear it click over into closed loop at one point so it did get hot. I cleaned up my mess and then pulled it back into the garage. This week I was going to pull it out again and I'm unable to get it started at all... I just checked the oil and it was not showing up on the dipstick...... uhoh!
Is it possible that I seized the oil pump with low oil. Maybe not totally seized, but too gummed up to operate? After adding more oil today, it was a missing about a quart.
I'm also noticing a smell of the bad gasoline in the oil (from the oil cap). Camshaft appears to have adequate oil. Is the oil a problem now too and should be changed again? Or could that just be from combustion of some of the bad gas that stuck around in the system?
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'82 245 B21F-MPG-LH 1.0, '83 244 B21FT-K-Jet, '86 244 B23F-LH 2.0
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To all that replied, thank you for your thoughts and time.
I have had success getting it started and running again. Part of my problem is a dying battery that wasn't allowing me to crank for more than 20-30 seconds.
I went over the engine and started with obvious areas and discovered many issues with the ignition system. I replaced the wires (with used but much better wires) and cleaned up the plugs. Spark plugs all were fairly oily (except for the plug that basically wasn't getting spark because of bad wire). Seems to be running rich also. I discovered some corrosion in the coil HV output connection. In addition, a few more gallons of fresh fuel and some BG fuel system cleaner were added.
After adding the oil to the correct level (about a quart), I used the starter (the starter jumper point in the engine bay) to turn the engine several times to splash around some oil and get the bearings some more lubrication. This seemed to make a difference and I was able to start it fairly easily the final try. I suspect the lack of oil was creating lots of extra resistance and making the starter work extra hard.
After starting the oil light goes out right away so I assume this means all is well with the pump.
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'82 245 B21F-MPG-LH 1.0, '83 244 B21FT-K-Jet, '86 244 B23F-LH 2.0
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If all you added was a quart of oil you should be fine, not low enough to cause any problems.
Dan
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i would be quite surprised if you seized your oil pump from what you state.
these things are tough and well designed.
i had a 93 240 come my way some years ago where the woman driving it blew a head gasket on rt 91 and kept driving till she got off the highway some 'miles" later.
the head was warped 35.000's. the rod bearing were in terrible shape, the main survived, don't ask me how.
there was NO measurable oil in the pan and no coolant whatsoever.
the oil pump after an engine rehab worked perfectly and has ever since.
because of very limited funds i did this job for her as cheaply as possible otherwise i would have replaced much more.
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I am curious about which year car we are talking about. We need to know which engine and fuel system is on the car.
Your listing at the bottom does not match up correctly, to what I think, should be in each car? Has there been some swapping going on within the year models?
I just might be fuzzy to how long each engine syle and fuel system was use through those particular years and I need to be put on the right page, as usual! (-:)(:-))-double-chin?
In any case, it's pretty hard to seize up a oil pump as it gets (its) oil first before,long anything else does.
The oil pump in its self is a very robust and simple component by comparison to most fuel system devices.
Not being able to start the car has more to do with bad gas especially if its a K-Jet system.
Having that bad gas has put the car in jeopardy of having lots of issues, from things like getting stuck up.
The injectors are pressurized open and may not close causing oil dilution by gasoline. Bad crankcase odor.
The fuel distributor air flap could start hanging open or shut which will lead to a large host of running issues past flooding.
There are several fine mesh screens on the inlets of components, that if become clogged could lead to the thoughts of a failed component, when in actuality cannot work.
I would do as the other poster said, plus, remove the injectors from their holes while doing any rolling over of the engine. Of course, this would also be after changing the oil, just to verify they are not leaking after powering up the pumps as in starting it.
Oil should be oozing out from under the valves cam journals and flooding things fairly quickly in the head. Pulling the valve cover or possibly shinning a light into the oil cap hole, might tell you good news.
Phil
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Sorry, this was an 83 with LH injection, I thought I had set that, but didn't mention it anywhere in my post.
My signature does need updating and I think is is not totally accurate, but anyway... the 82 does have LH 1.0 and the turbo is k-jet obviously. The 86 probably has LH2.1 or something, and the 83 I'm taking about has the LH 2.0. But this 83 is really a project hack job now.
As I posted, its running again, so I don't think the oil pump is in danger. I'm still a little concerned about the oil smell though.
-"Not being able to start the car has more to do with bad gas especially if its a K-Jet system.
Having that bad gas has put the car in jeopardy of having lots of issues, from things like getting stuck up."
so in your experience not much of an issue for LH? As I said, i dumped the bad fuel that was in the tank, but probably some still remained- obviously since i still have that strong bad gas smell in the tank and now oil.
I'd like clarification on:
-"Of course, this would also be after changing the oil, just to verify they are not leaking after powering up the pumps as in starting it. "
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'82 245 B21F-MPG-LH 1.0, '83 244 B21FT-K-Jet, '86 244 B23F-LH 2.0
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Well I am glad to hear its a LH system as the injectors should only work when pulsed.
The k- jet fires them all continuously . The reason for the CIS designation. They are overcome by pressure only and bad gas is pumped differently, for reasons of viscosity, of which there is no adjustment internally that can be had with a change in pluse width on the LH.
I agree the LH is more forgiving for bad gas because the control pressure regulator does not play as much of an important role as it is done within the K-jet. The computer of the k-jet is not as "plugged in" I would like to say either!
The K-Jet is a very respectable system as long as it's kept CLEAN!
The reason I wrote in about changing the oil first, was for the worry of diluting the oil twice, while troubleshooting any other issues.
I hope both posts we exchanged has helped clear up some of the confusion and concerns we both may have had.
Phil
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Take the spark plugs out, disable the ignition, and crank the engine with the starter. Does the oil pressure light go out ?
How much oil (total) did you add to bring the level up to the safe range ? When an engine is run without oil the crank or rod bearings are the most likely to seize up first.
Greg
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I had to replace an oil pump inner seal inside the crankcase. MAJOR pain in the Butt. You will have to drop the pan completely by either lifting the engine or lowering the cross frame member. BUT what I want to say is that I still have a brand new oil pump for the B230 engine if you need one. I will sell it relatively cheaply.
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