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Hi All,
I'm slowly getting my 1974 164 road worthy, it has a long way to go. Last weekend I was replacing the upper and lower ball joints and front control arm bushings. I was able to replace the lower control arm bushings and ball joints, but the upper control arm bushings I order were wrong. I thought 140 upper control arm bushings would work, I thought I read that somewhere. I think what I read was you can use 140 upper control arms if you swap them over complete, and they have to be from a 1970 onwards car to ensure you have the larger diameter ball joint. Can anyone shed some light on this please. Since this weekend I found that a company called Skandix lists the correct 164 complete new left and right upper control arms, but not the upper control arm bushings. I also found a company called Vlvautoparts.com that lists complete new upper control arm for all 140's, and also the 164. It looks like they have already supperceded the 164 upper control arm to the 140 style. Vlvautoparts.com only list 1 part number and says it will work on the left or right. Can anyone please tell me if 140 upper control arms are side specific?
If this will work I plan on going used and just installing my new upper ball joints and new 140 style control arm bushings. I don't want to pay $300.00 plus per side for a brand new upper control arm.
Thanks in advance for you replies, Matt
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posted by
someone claiming to be blackjackmc
on
Mon Feb 17 03:39 CST 2014 [ RELATED]
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I would align a drag car with 3 to 4 degrees positive caster. 2 degrees positive on a road car will self centre good and be managable with power steering.
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I have a related question. I am in the process of replacing the lower control arm bushings. I was surprised to see that the new bushings are not symmetrical..the inner metal "tube" is offset a bit and there is little or no rubber on side relative to the other. My Haynes and Chilton manuals tell me to have Volvo install the bushings. Is there a "trick" or some guidance as to how they should be installed?
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Yes!
FYI, the only trick is to clock the bushings correctly before having them pressed in. Just about every repair manual for 140/164 should show you the correct orientation.
Make sure you correctly reinstall the 2 plastic spacer rings and rubber washers.
Good luck!
P.S. I doubt there is Volvo dealer anywhere that has the right tools and if they do, no one knows how to use them to change these bushings.
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Thanks. I did find the recommended orientation in the factory manual I have. I will also look carefully at the old ones 1st.
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The bottom bushes are a special thing, the object of them is to get as much extra rubber on top as possible & the space at the bottom lets it be a little bit more forgiving under heavy braking and corning on rough roads, a noticable improvement over the early B18 140 front end.
The top bushes takes a lot less of the load except when braking. The top arm rotates fowards & with the extra weight of the 164, Volvo changed the bushes to be stiffer to reduce loss of caster under braking.
When you get a wheel alignment, I would ask for +4° degrees of caster. Camber & Toe depend on what tyres, wheels and track you have.
--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.
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Use 1970- upper arms with poly bushings is the way to go. L & R are the same. I still insist factory style rubber bushes are best in the lower arms for road use. They are the reason 140's stop & ride better than 240's.
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Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.
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Hi Paul
I think I will go with 1970 on 140 upper arms. I already have the ball joints and stock rubber bushings. Does anyone have any spare 140 upper arms they would be willing to part with for a reasonable amount. I have always heard Poly bushings give a harsher ride, would that be the case here?
Thanks again for the help,
Matt
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Poly in the top won't affect the ride, but can get noisy after a period of use due to lack of lube & no way to get the grease in. It's easy to lube your swaybar, so poly is good there, but elsewhere, poly is racecar only stuff where the car won't get to the mileage where the grease is gone.
--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.
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I have a pair from a '73 142 on the shelf I could part with. Contact me at----fastforwardphoto(AT)yahoo(DOT)com----Dave
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Hi Dave,
Thanks, I sent a pm with my specifics.
Matt
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Volvo discontinued the bushing original 164 upper control arm bushings several years ago.
I am not aware of any direct replacement with 140 or any other upper control arms.
I have heard the bushings might be reproduced. I will call to see if they available yet. But the price will be over $70.00 per bushing if they are.
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Eric Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only) Torrance, CA 90502
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Hi Eric,
That would be great, I appreciate you calling to check on price and availability. Who would reproduce them?
Matt
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Hello Matt,
No problem.
What usually happens is one of the major suppliers of old Volvo parts like VP or CVI will take it upon themselves to have them made and if feasible, they sometimes have them made by the original manufacturer. And if that can't happen, then they have made elsewhere, sometimes with original tooling from the original manufacturer.
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Unfortunately, VP does not have them yet.
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Eric Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only) Torrance, CA 90502
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Hi Eric,
Thanks for checking, I appreciate your help. I am going to try using the 1970 on 140 upper control arms and put it back together. Do you have a source for reasonably priced used ones? I already have new ball joints and bushings for the 140 style.
Matt
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If you have the parts, just use them. The rubber bushes will still work for quite awhile. If you live near Eric, get him to do it, it's a PITA Job & worth whatever he wants tocharge! I like to use fat on rubber when pushing them together, and don't forget the top balljoints are slotted and must be installed in an east-west orientation.
--
Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.
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679247 and 67928 are available from VP Autoparts. Not cheap!
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