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Last week I went to start it and it cranked for about 30 seconds and then started and ran perfectly fine! But every time I went to start it again, it would take longer. And now it doesn't start at all.
What I have replaced this week.
-Fuel filter
-Fuel pressure regulator
-Ignition coil
-Distributor cap & rotor
I am getting a nice blueish spark now, but it just cranks, and doesn't attempt to start.
What I have already tested and inspected, and are all good.
-Fuses(in car and under hood)
-Fuel pumps
--Fuel pump relay
-All spark plugs and wires
-Timing belt
-RPM sensor
-AMM
I have ran out of ideas at this point, and am beginning to lose hope.
Any ideas/suggestions guys? Please!
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"I am getting a nice blueish spark now, but it just cranks, and doesn't attempt to start."
So, you have spark. That implies you have removed a spark plug. Was it wet? Did it smell like fuel?
If the cam is turning when you're cranking, do the starting fluid test, and if you get some life, pursue the lack of fuel delivery this way: Use a jumper to connect fuse 4 to 6. Make sure you hear both fuel pumps (that are good) running. Try to start it now.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
A bicycle can't stand alone because it is two-tired.
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Any codes in the OBD?
RayS suggests trying a shot of starting fluid. I second that motion. Remove the flexible hose open the throttle and give it a shot and then try it. If it fires up momentary your issue is the lack of fuel.
How much fuel do you have in the tank? There is a rubber piece in the fuel pick up in the tank that can split and allow the pump to try to pull air rather than fuel. This can become an issue if it is split and the fuel is below a half tank.
Randy
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It'll run on starting fluid.
It ended up that the ecm was trashed. I replaced it today and it started up just fine. But the third time I went to start it, it was back to how it was. No injector pulse, and it just cranks. So, I'm assuming my car trashed this new ecm? Any suggestions?
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More likely you have an intermittent electrical connection, and the act of swapping the ECU is a coincidence or mechanical disturbance of the flaky joint. Don't throw your old one away yet.
Try to determine that your fuel pumps are enabled while cranking. You hear them buzz for a second when you turn the key to KP-II but the noise of the starter masks their sound when it cranks. A test light at fuse 4 will confirm fuel pump power.
Check the grounds (for the ECU) at the fuel rail bolts on the intake manifold, if you have fuel pumps when cranking but no injector opening.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
What's the definition of a will? It's a dead giveaway.
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As of now, my fuel pumps aren't turning on while cranking, because the relay isn't closing. But the main relay is. When I put the new ecu in, they were running while cranking. That's why I feel like the new ecu is fried. I've tested the grounds on the manifold and they are good. And the pumps will run if I use a jumper from #4 to #6. And it will run on starter fluid.
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Will the motor start and run with the jumper in place?
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
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Actually, that's a good sign, or would be a good sign if you didn't already have two ECUs. Now, do you have a test light? Make sure the full system current is available when the ECU calls for it:
Backprobe the orange wire on the AMM with your test light and ensure you see battery there with key on and while cranking. If not, look for a corrosion fault along the red wire and 25A fuse holder on the left fender wall.
If you do have light, then the ECU could be suspect, not the most likely answer. Try the old one again and verify the voltage at fuse 4 with your test light (during cranking).
If not, then revisit spark. It could have been intermittent, giving you a nice blue spark when you looked for it and failing later or failing to deliver it at the proper time (CPS).
Double check for OBD codes, and let us know the part numbers and label colors on your two fuel ECUs (if an automatic, it should be -561 or -951, white label preferred).
PS, the only "fried" ECUs we've heard of happened at the hands of someone welding the exhaust system with the oxygen sensor and ECU connected. There was a rumor of one fried because an alternator regulator was faulty and the battery cooked out.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
A backward poet writes inverse.
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Okay I back probed the orange wire, and I got 2.7 volts with key on, and while cranking.
my original ecm was a 561 and the new one is a 951
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Okay I will do that!
BUT! When I check for obd codes in socket #2 it does nothing. But it works in #6. When I first put the ecu in, it gave me 1-1-1 in socket #2. But nothing now.
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That is exactly how it would respond if the red lead power disappears due to a corroded fuseholder or connector. And that has to be the #1 reason for crank-no-starts on your car. The orange wire test will prove that.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
In democracy it's your vote that counts; in feudalism it's your count that votes.
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Not sure if you got my other post or not but here it is again.
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Okay I back probed the orange wire, and I got 2.7 volts with key on, and while cranking.
my original ecm was a 561 and the new one is a 951
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OK, you'll fix this by revisiting the blade fuseholder or the red lead connection near the battery. Somewhere in that circuit, the battery voltage is trying to negotiate a hunk of verdigris instead of clean shiny metal. The most likely place is at the fuseholder.
After you get 12V back, your OBD light should work correctly again for socket 2 and your car will start.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
She had a boyfriend with a wooden leg, but she broke it off.
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Okay!
I installed a new fuse holder and put in a new fuse. And the red wire is getting 12 volts to the fuse. Yet I'm still getting low voltage at the orange wire.
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Assuming you measured the 12V with the key on, which connects the load, you'll just have to track it to the point where it stops being 12V and becomes 2.7. The path it takes is this: Battery junction box - 25A fuse - Fuel Relay 30 - Fuel Relay 87/1 - orange wire.
The orange wire provides battery to the AMM, the injectors, the IAC, and the cold start valve. It also provides main power to the fuel ECU.
The Fuel Relay has two relays inside (you said the system relay was engaging -- that's the one that turns on the orange lead). The system relay should come on in KP-II and, as after driving, should stay on to power the AMM for hot wire burnoff about 4 seconds after key off.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
A chicken crossing the road is poultry in motion.
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Okay, so I found that the 2.7 is at the relay 30 connection, before the relay.
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There's nothing but that red wire between relay 30 and the blade fuseholder.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
If you don't pay your exorcist, you get repossessed.
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Okay, never mind! I was testing the wrong one. The red wire is good. The voltage drops to 2.7 on both orange wires.
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If you have 12V on 30, 2.7 on 87/1 (orange), and the relay is engaged, then replace or resolder the relay unit. Do you have any wiring diagram?
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
With her marriage she got a new name and a dress.
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Have you tested the starter? Just went through almost exactly the same symptoms with my 850. Turns out it was the starter. It's getting a new (rebuilt) one Friday...:)
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any smell of gas under the car. Like a gas hose leak?
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/
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Have you squirted some starter fluid/gumout in the throttle body to see if it will turn over? If it catches from that then it's a fuel issue.
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Try replacing the Crank Position Sensor that is located behind the cylinder head.
They are notorious for quitting that way.
Phil
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