I know I'm missing something but not sure what at this point. I'm putting new Boge gas struts on the wagon (done this before with the '91). It's all reassembled, the only thing holding the bottom of the assembly is the ball joint and I can't seem to clear the inside top of the fender right at the well. It clears the outside edge of the fender with room to spare.

Trying to shorten the overall length enough to make it reach it's destination, I've run the big top nut down maybe 3/4". I'm using a new strut mount so there's no deformity there. Really puzzled here ... Jim

Hi Jim,

I've run into the same puzzle. My conclusion is the aftermarket ball joints have plenty of articulation for geometry required for operation, but not the same articulation the OE joints had permitting the tilt of the strut to clear the fender well.

Documented here: On Car Method
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

What engineers say and what they mean by it:
"This project has low maintenance requirements."
We wouldn't let the technicians change a light bulb, much less fool around with our baby.

Hi Art,

Thanks and appreciate the pics with explanations (now saved in my favorites). That may have been the problem I had. My new ball joints are Moog from Rock Auto. We had one day in the 50s here in Nashville yesterday, so I was able to get outside and complete the other side. The job this time went much quicker.

My method, same as the first strut, was to run a rope through the uppermost spring coil, then out the hole at the top. I pulled the strut assembly up as far as it would go, then tied off the rope. One swift kick while laying on the ground was enough to send it home. As suggested earlier, I'll be sure to spray any nicks with 3M undercoating. I used the jack that came with the car, placed under the ball joint, to raise everything while guiding the 3 studs into place. I'm looking forward to test driving the old girl with new struts, strut mounts, control arm bushings and outer tie rod ends. Oh, and new tires and alignment.

Thanks all,
Jim

I discovered an easy way. I mounted the spring compressor back on the spring and put on a light spring compression. This helped me move the strut into the tower. Then I removed the spring compressor. No great muscling needed. Strut moved back into the tower with a breeze. Try it on the other strut.

For the fun of Volvos,
Mike
--
'92 245DL, '90 760 GLT

Press down on the A-arm with your foot and it should drop down enough to pop in.

Dang, I think I pulled something. I finally did get it in. My approach was to tie a rope around the assembly near the top, then out the strut tower hole, pull everything up as far as I could and tie it off. I laid on the ground and gave it a good kick near the top and it went in. Now for the other side.

Don't forget to touch up the undercoating after!

Not exactly sure of your question, are you saying that the new strut does not hit the bottom of the strut tube? Mike