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It could be a bad rotor button inside the distributor. They quit without notice most of the time or with an occasional misfire and poor running.
Are you are getting some spark from the coil over to the cap?
I hope you have not pulled on the connector that goes into the ICU. Its over by the washer bottle. Don't ever try to check it. They are a one time Johnny gets on it, setup!
The ICU has to see a signal from the hall sensor that sets below the rotor button in the distributor. It turns on things like the spark coil from the ICU.
It powers injectors and fuel pumps through two relaya under the dashes glovebox. They are interchangeable, by the way, to do troubleshooting for the pumps to run if they are not. You should hear the pumps run, as its cranking and for a second after you stop.
One of mine had a magnetic coil inside it fail. I had to opened it up with my trusty Leatherman Knife. I tied a shoe string around it insides, to close it, so I could get back home.
They are combined into only one relay but with two seperate circuits on the later cars. They suffer solder problems inside them also.
The hunt for a no start condition can start anywhere along these lines I laid out for you plus there is that pesky in-line fuse out by the battery too!
Good Luck
Phil
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