The morning after my son drove our '94 945 home last night, I find that I cannot turn the key in the ignition.

Five years ago, due to a key jam (wherein I could not remove the key after a "car skating" incident), I had disconnected the cable between the ignition key lock assembly in the instrument panel and what has been described to me as the neutral safety switch.

Since that time I have, of course, been able to turn off the ignition and remove the key no matter what position the shifter is in.

So...I have no idea what quirk of fate (or issue with the key lock assembly) is now preventing the key from turning. It won't turn with any of my copies of the key. I can easily insert and remove the key with no unusual action.

I had asked a number of questions about the murky relationship between the key lock, the neutral safety switch, the linkage cable, and the park shift lock mechanism (including shifter button) five years ago. I never did get answers to them, but I'm not sure it matters now! Here they were:

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1323219/940/960/980/V90/S90/unable_remove_ignition_keyduring_road_trip.html

Many years ago, Mapleleafer wrote, "The most common reason for being unable to turn the ignition key (in most cars) is having the wheels turned when the ignition is cut, the steering lock pin engages and then the steering shaft kicks back when powesteering pressure drops. This forces the lockplate tight against the pin and makes it very difficult to turn the key next time." My son says he pulled to a stop and put the car in park and turned it off normally. (He says/he says.)

Any ideas on how to get this old girl moving? Thanks!

-- Greg

With thanks to all for the great suggestions, I am happy to report that the key finally did turn and the ignition lock worked fine thereafter.

Perhaps fittingly, it was the same son on whose watch the problem STARTED who was able to FINISH the issue. He went out and tried it one day and it worked fine; he can't remember doing anything differently except messing with the shifter a bit (which should not have "done" anything since the the neutral safety cable is unhooked).

The only difference was temperature; the issue started when we were in near-zero temps, and disappeared when temps had risen to the 20s. Maybe there's a correlation.

Sorry I can't report a true "solution" but thanks again to all for your ideas.

--Greg

Dear Greg R,

Hope you're well. Does the car's main driver, keep the car keys on a keyring with many other keys? I ask, because a heavy key bunch accelerates wear on the lock's cylinder.

During turns and/or when going over uneven pavement, the key ring swings and bounces. Enough of such movements (years' worth), wears-down the surface of the tumbler pins. When a key is inserted, the pins no longer are lowered (or raised) to the point, where they allow the cylinder to turn.

The only cure for this is to replace the cylinder. If you call a Volvo dealer and supply the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number), the service department should be able to look-up the key code. A replacement lock cylinder likely is part #6819217 (MSRP = $140). The replacement lock cylinder should come with a key identical to those that operate the doors, hatch, and glove compartment.

You might be able to get the lock to release, by lifting up or pressing down on the key, as you try to turn it. Exert pressure, such that the entire length of the key is raised or lowered. Pretend the key is a knife, and you want to slice through a loaf of bread, so that the front end of the blade, and the handle-end of the blade reach the cutting board at the same instant.

That is, do NOT lever downwards on the lock's opening, as that will cause the tip of the key to rise. You want all of the key's working surface to touch the tumbler pins at the same time. The added pressure might just suffice to release the cylinder. If so, leave the key in the lock, until you have a replacement cylinder.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

trying turning the steering wheel as you turn the key in the ignition.

you may have to do this several times until it unlocks for you.

this has happened to me on occasion and this method has always worked.

I can corroborate- try forcing the wheel while turning the key-

Thanks, will try that. I did jiggle the wheel a lot to make sure it wasn't in locked-wheel position, but maybe I didn't try it enough.

i have found once or twice as you turn the steering wheel you must turn it until it won't turn further and then jiggle the key in the lock.

Well I went out and really worked the thing over...

For clarification, the steering wheel itself is in the lock position, so there is only about an inch of play when "turning" the wheel.

I pulled hard against the stop (locked) position in either direction while attempting to turn the key, and of course also jiggled the wheel vigorously back and forth against both stops, and otherwise got a very nice workout trying to get the key to do something. Also used a different key (just in case).

I still feel it's suspicious that the shifter is locked in Park (and can only be defeated by the lock override button), because I think that it was NOT locking previously (since I disconnected the neutral interlock cable from the back of the ignition keylock several years ago). I might be wrong...

the shift over ride would not prevent the wheel from moving.

have you verified under the hood your steering column and the 2 u joints in it are not damaged in any way?