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I have moved and/or replaced several racks so this is not new to me, overall. But I swapped a rack from my 93, that was in a 90 760 and then I put in my 90 740, then in my 93 940. It's a good rack.
So; now that it's in the 95 the steering wheel is at say 11, when the car is straight down the road. Both cars were aligned correctly I believe before the rack swap. The tie rod ends seem to show pretty much the same threads on both sides. My question is, when fitting the steering shaft to the rack, the splines have to align to accept the pinch bolt in the cut-out. Is there only One way it can go, or can it be off a spline or two and still have the pinch bolt go in?
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Dear jerryc,
Hope you're well. If, after a rack swap or other front-end work, the steering wheel is tilted slightly (relative to the black plastic bezel between the steering wheel and the instrument cluster), this can be corrected, without undoing the front-end work.
It is not a major task to remove the steering wheel, and reinstall it, such that the top of the airbag is exactly parallel with the top of the aforementioned bezel.
I presume the sides of the tires are exactly parallel to the car's centerline.
De-activate the SRS system: disconnect negative battery cable terminal from the negative battery terminal, and put the negative battery cable clamp in a plastic bag. Wait 20 minutes, for the SRS system to de-energize.
Use a long T-30 bit (3 inches, at least), to loosen the two screws, that secure the airbag to the steering wheel. I use a 1/4" ratchet and a socket, to turn the T-30 bit. Remove the airbag's connector and set aside the airbag.
A Phillips-head screw - stored on the left side of the space under the airbag and with a narrow, yellow plastic warning label - must be installed, to protect the SRS "clock spring" device. Once that's done, remove the steering wheel - without turning it even slightly - and reinstall it, so the alignment is correct. Remove the Phillips-head screw from the clock-spring device and return the screw to its storage place.
Reconnect the airbag and replace the two T-30 screws, that secure the airbag to the steering wheel. Turn the ignition key to "on" (do not start the engine). Ensuring no one is in the driver's seat, re-connect the negative battery cable clamp to the negative battery terminal. Start the engine. Presuming all warning lights "go out" as is normal after start-up, the job is done.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Thanks Bruce and Spook. The car is pulling a little to the left, (don't know why, I only replaced the struts/modified the camber, changed the conical bushings, re-pressed the control arm bushings, added braces to frame and crossmember, and swapped the rack :-)
Spooks' excellent detail on moving the wheel is interesting, but maybe as part of an alignment it'd be simpler to just have the toe set by turning the tie rod ends a bit. I think it'd depend on how many turns it'd take to get the wheel straight, and how far off they are from exactly the same amount on each side.
As said it's about at 11, or a tad towards 12.
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I'm assuming you were being sarcastic when you wrote regarding the car pulling to the left--"don't know why, I only replaced the struts/modified the camber, changed the conical bushings, re-pressed the control arm bushings, added braces to frame and crossmember, and swapped the rack :-)". If that's so, then I think you know the answer. Your alignment needs to be checked. Tell the tech the symptoms--wheel off center and car pulling -- He or she can then check that the camber is equal side to side--lock the steering wheel straight---and then adjust toe accordingly. The method Spook suggested is one I've used many times--but that works only if the alignment is right and the amount the wheel is off is equal to however many full splines on the shaft. If it's off by a half a spline but the alignment is good then the wheel can only be straightened by fiddling with the tie rod ends. -- Dave
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I thought my little attempt at humor was kinda obvious... hehe.
Yes of course it needs alignment, especially toe. I think the camber is about where I want it, but checking would be good. I may make a trammel bar for toe, but I do want to know what the camber is now. Neg .75 or so is the target.
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I know---the :) gave it away. I use a short carpenters level and a flat/level section of pavement to make a quick camber checker. Place the level either in front of or behind the road wheel with the lower part touching the tire sidewall forward of or behind the radial tire "bulge" and the upper in the corresponding spot along the upper part of the tire. Pull the level away at the top or bottom to make the bubble center. That will give you an ideas of positive or negative camber and relative value side to side. On more than one occasion I've found 240's (they have adjustment camber slots) with + on one side and - on the other. -- Dave
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240's (they have adjustment camber slots)
As do my 940's, now. :-)
Everyone who has done this or similar on TB, says it is the best thing they have done for handling. I first did it a year ago on another car, and it works.
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"Is there only One way it can go, or can it be off a spline or two and still have the pinch bolt go in?"
Hi Jerry,
I believe there is only one way to fit the pinch bolt. And that any variance in steering wheel position (different cars w/same rack) must be due to differences in tie rod end positioning from one car to another.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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