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While drving yesterday it quit running. Put new fuel filter on and no go. Fuel pump working, have Crain electronic ignition other than that stock E engine. What are the most common reasons for no run. All wires seem to be good. Don't have help at the moment to check spark. Any common problems like this known??
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posted by
someone claiming to be blackjacmac
on
Thu Dec 26 23:53 CST 2013 [ RELATED]
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140s are old enough to have rust build up in iron heads. but more modern engines with EFI and alloy heads can corrode through mixing incompatible coolant or none at all. This can lead to electrolysis and much head scratching.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Blackjackmac
on
Wed Dec 25 21:37 CST 2013 [ RELATED]
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The coolant temp sensor can check ok in situ, but can have earthing fault in thread. Remove, clean thread, replace sensor. Check wiring, Check continuity of sensor base to housing.
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Blackjackmac,
I did not know that. That would explain why simply swapping mine solved my problem. The sensor I removed tested within spec. I thought wiring was suspect. I must have 'cleaned' the sensor when I swapped them. Maybe I should revisit that area and do a better job. Thanks!
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Kronikov wrote---"I must have 'cleaned' the sensor when I swapped them. Maybe I should revisit that area and do a better job. Thanks!"
I'd just like to add -while on this subject-that the Thermal Timer (controlling when the cold start valve will operate) is also subject to a lack of grounding through the intermediate piece between the block and the TT. -- Dave
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I have plenty of spark, Crane electronic is fine, fuel pressure is good, K&N air filter clean. Has to be a sensor. Where is the MAP sensor. Had car running and everything sounded fine but when it warmed up a little it quit just like hitting the key off. Timing gear is new. Appreciate all the help I've gotton so far!!Hope you all have a VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS!!
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"Crane electronic is fine"
Okay. With a wonky ignition, I thought it might have been the Crane. That's why I suggested returning to, what I assumed were, points.
"Has to be a sensor."
The sensors in my '80 and '84 Canadian carbed 240s don't interact with the engine. They just let the owner know engine temperature and oil pressure are suitable or not. I am surprised that your '72 is more advanced. That it even has a MAP sensor and ECU.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.
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Trev29 wrote--"The sensors in my '80 and '84 Canadian carbed 240s don't interact with the engine. They just let the owner know engine temperature and oil pressure are suitable or not. I am surprised that your '72 is more advanced. That it even has a MAP sensor and ECU"
Just so you know -- Bosch introduced the D-jet electronic FI on the 1968 VW Squareback and then it was used by Volvo, Saab and Porsche - maybe others too. Merry Christmas -- Dave
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"Had car running and everything sounded fine but when it warmed up a little it quit just like hitting the key off"
This makes me think it's the water temperature sensor that is located at the thermostat housing.
Sometimes the air temp sensor which is located in front of the radiator can go too, but I still think it's the water temp. sensor.
--
"Differences of opinions should be tolerated, but not if they're too different' - Sharon Craig
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I had this same condition on my 1974 164E. It would die after a few minutes once the car was warmed up. If I let it cool down it would run for longer periods and if I didn't it would not start or start for a minute and die. I swapped relays, filters, fuel pressure regulator. I swapped out the six month old coolant temperature sensor to a used spare I had and the problem has not returned. I am not sure if the wiring at the connectors was to blame and I never did anything to repair them. No problems. I tested the sensor with a digital meter so I could not see dead spots in the curve but it did test within specs. Also, if the coolant temperature sensor is not connected the car will not start.
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From my experience with a 164e: I had this happen, slowly dying after running well for several miles, etc. Then after a little while, starts and runs again. Have you checked the fuel filters in the tank? Does a 140e have in-tank filter? I finally took my tank off, cleaned it out, replace in-tank filter and it ran forever, or at least until I gave it to the Walrus...
Merry Christmas
Kent
--
Too much iron, too little time
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Haven't had this type of injection on a driver in 30 yrs and the long term solution is the painless Weber 2 bbl downdraft Carb conversion(reasonable used) ,or some decent SU-HS6 carbs. You can save all the fuelie pieces for the next owner.
Back then, I got stranded w/ the '73 164....no start. Called a friend and learned there is a relay on rt, fenderwell that's sole purpose was to give a pulse to fuelpump--to squirt a shot of fuel, all injectors, to start car---and turn off. relay failed, I put a jumper wire across relay, pump started, motor started and ran. Another Volvo fuelie incident.
Good luck and Merry Christmas from Sunny Florida,cold today @ 71
Kayo,"TOO Much Steel" '57 444 Norway,'59 445,'73 142,'89-780V8,3-544.4parts
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What is your battery voltage? Some electronic ignitions don't like a weak charging system.
Greg
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The same thing happened to me! I drive a 72 142E and it was because the timing gear needed to be replaced. For some reason for a bit Volvo used fiber gears and I had to switch it out because some of the teeth on the gear were missing. You can find the part at rockauto.com It's like 100 bucks or so.
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Got it running, went 2 miles and it quit again. Changed the coil out (low voltage). Running again and quit! Have a KN filter just cleaned. Stumped!!
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Got it running for about 3 minutes, no missing or rough idle and it quit again. Tried to start and no go. Has spark and gas, I guess it's a sensor or something. Thinking of carbs. Any out there with a manifold and lincage??
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"Has spark and gas..."
This is d-jet fuel injection, correct? You need to know what the fuel pressure is... the mere presence of gas is not sufficient. Factory setting is around 28 psi, and it will absolutely refuse to run (even at idle) at something around 15 psi, give or take a few.
--
Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES
YouTube Racing Videos
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"...it quit running" doesn't tell us much. The first question I would ask is HOW did it quit running? For instance:
- Like you shut off the ignition... suddenly no combustion whatsoever?
- Like you were running out of gas... slow death in the form of spurts, no backfiring?
- Like the ignition system is going stupid... deterioration of power accompanied by backfiring?
You don't say, but I infer the car will restart after a period of time with no work whatsoever. True?
--
Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES
YouTube Racing Videos
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Do you still have the points? Try re-installing them.
I had trouble with both Pertronix and Hot Spark electronic ignitions after a few years. I went back to points because they don't leave you stranded.
I was thinking of trying Crane ignition which uses light pulses and shouldn't give problems. But I may be wrong. See if their website mentions anything.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.
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I have the Crane ignition and it has been flawless for 5 years on this one and 8 years on the other 142E I had. Different unit on each car. Going to swap to older unit to see if this is the problem. Just scratching my head at this point!
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Check the instrument cluster fuse.
Can't explain it, but a blown one left me stranded once.
--
"Differences of opinions should be tolerated, but not if they're too different' - Sharon Craig
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As you know, fuel, air, spark.
I always carry a remote starter and extra plug to check spark - just plug it in one of the wires and ground it - turn over engine to confirm spark.
Are your plugs wet after trying to start engine?
Remove air cleaner to check for air - if there is a housing, put it in place after removing element.
I had a car die on the highway because the air cleaner was clogged! This was just after a tune-up!!!
--
'96 855R,'64 PV544 driver, '67 P1800 basket case, '72 Yamaha Rd400, '68 Honda 350-4, '12 XC70, the first 5 are mine, heh, heh, 525,000 miles put on 10 bricks James A Sousa
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