posted by
someone claiming to be Susan
on
Sat Oct 26 09:13 CST 2013 [ RELATED]
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Hi Guys,
I'm back again with wagon issues on my '93 940 wagon. Today, I tried to start the car, but the battery was low (slowly cranking).
I'm wondering if the AC compressor could be draining it. The white wire to the compressor was disconnected when I bought the car, and I just had it reconnected on October 15. It was starting OK until this morning.
I got a new battery in September. Prior to that, the battery was replaced by the previous owner THREE TIMES (June 2011, November 2011, June 2012). If the AC compressor is draining it, could this be why the white wire was disconnected?
Any insight would be appreciated! Thanks!
Susan
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Hello,
The ac compressor is only powered when the engine is running with cabin fan and ac switched on.
I think what most likely happened is that the magnetic clutch - where the wire goes to the compressor - is draining too much current from the battery when the ac is running. So the previous owner left it disconnected.
High current drain could be due to bad magnetic clutch with electrical shorts within its coil windings. Using a volt-meter you can measure the coil's resistance. It should be between 3.5 to 6 ohm (depends on compressor model). An almost zero ohm (no resistance) would indicate electrical short.
To measure using the volt-meter you have to calibrate the zero-ohm reading first (otherwise it would display incorrect value). If you're using a digital meter the zero-ohm reading is automatically set. If you're using analog meter (with moving needle as indicator) set the dial to the omega sign (ohm). Choose the X1 setting (means whatever the value read is multiplied by one - for low ohm reading). Touch the two meter probes together. The needle should jump to exactly zero ohm. If its not there's a smaller dial on the meter fascia which you can turn clockwise/anticlockwise to set the needle exactly to read zero ohm (while touching the two probes together). Now you can start using the meter.
Engine should not be running. Better to work on cold engine to avoid any scalding. Disconnect the ac compressor wire. Pick the wire that goes straight to the compressor (not the wire that comes from engine wiring loom). Touch one of the test probe to the compressor wire and the other test probe to the engine metal for ground (anywhere would do). Read the ohm value indicated on meter.
To replace the magnetic clutch requires special tools to work on the ac compressor. Better let the ac shop handle this. But at least you know where the fault is. Also depends on the compressor's overall condition a replacement compressor might be needed. New compressor comes with new clutch already fitted.
Idle surge especially when ac is running could be due to bad magnetic clutch too. The way the ac circuit is wired is that part of the compressor wiring is routed back to the engine computer (ECU) to monitor the load on the engine. Bad magnetic clutch gives the impression of heavier engine load. This causes the ECU to adjust the engine idle repeatedly causing idle surges. You have to correct the clutch problem first or refrain from using ac till then.
Hope this helps.
Amarin.
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causes normally are a vacuum leak in the air intake system or a faulty iac valve.
the silver canister under the intake manifold
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posted by
someone claiming to be Susan
on
Sun Oct 27 13:45 CST 2013 [ RELATED]
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Trichard, I just got this car last month, and one of the first things I did (with the fine help of Brickboarders) was clean the AIC valve. When I first checked codes, I got the one for the AIC signal missing or absent (whatever it is). I cleaned it well, and the code hasn't yet come back after driving it 500 miles. I still don't discount that it could be a problem, though. Could this be correct to have a bad AIC and not get a code? I did erase the codes after first checking them.
Not sure if you read the other post in this thread, but I'm driving this car across the country from PA to AZ and back to PA with my dog the third week in November (pretty soon!) to visit my son. The car has about 257,500 miles on it, and I have most all service records, although they are vague, even from the Volvo receipts. It doesn't look as though many of the relays were replaced EVER. In fact, the only relay that I know was replaced was the fuel pump relay in 2003. The car also gets pretty bad gas mileage. I think I'm getting around 14 or 15 mpg/city even using supreme gasoline. I just added a 1/2 pint of Seafoam to the gas, and that's when I noticed the engine surging even more at idle (unless it's all in my head).
:)
Susan
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Hi Susan,
If the car is really averaging 15 MPG, there is something else wrong besides the IAC valve. It is not a turbo engine ? I have a 1993 940 non-turbo and its gas mileage is never less than 22 MPG. These cars should achieve 25-30 MPG on constant speed highway trips.
Has the fuel pressure regulator near the fuel injectors been checked ? The FAQ has information on checking it.
Make sure the intake hose from the air cleaner to the throttle body is clamped properly and has no hidden cracks.
Make sure there are no cracks in the hoses to the IAC valve. Even a small leak can affect the idle smoothness.
Mike
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yes it could.
the code will only show up if the harness connection is faulty or the motor inside the IAC is shot.
there are a lot of symptoms that can occur between shot and merely working poorly which won't throw a code
i suggest you buy yourself a cheap few dollar 2 wire 12 volt test light. it will make you short circuit finding easier than a meter
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posted by
someone claiming to be Susan
on
Sun Oct 27 14:57 CST 2013 [ RELATED]
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Thanks, Trichard!
If I do have a bad AIC, where would you suggest that I get one? I have a Regina, and the prices I see are around $300. Would it be possible to find a good one from a junkyard? Any idea on how many miles one of these should last?
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I was having the IAC code (along with a no start) come up for my 93 regina. I thought my IAC was bad but it was not. I have never heard of IAC going bad on these cars. It turned out to be the fuel pump. I would replace that if it is the original as they last about 100K miles, especially if you are traveling long distance.
As far was your battery drain, once the key if out, only the interior lights and clock are energized. Check the lights, i am not sure but you may have an engine bay engine light or a rear trunk light. Check these, they have sensor for turning on and off, I think it used to be mercury if I recall.
I would also suspect sticky relays. I think you mentioned the Fuel pump relay was replaced. Check for juice on the fuel pump with the car off?
Also also, has the alternator been replaced?
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type this into ebay search
volvo 940 regina idle air control valve
or go here .... http://car-part.com/
fill in the boxes and slect intake manifold as the part.
find a yard near you and then call them up and ask for this part
1993 volvo 940 regina idle air control valve
i ma not saying you iac is definitely bad. from your symptoms it could be malfunctioning. just so we are clear
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if you use the car-part.com website make sure you only call yards that show they have 93 940 intake manifolds.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Susan
on
Tue Oct 29 21:45 CST 2013 [ RELATED]
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Thanks, trichard! I live in York, PA, and we have two pull-it-yourself junkyards, but I haven't yet checked them for 940s. I'll be sure to ask about the part just as you put it in your thread.
I did see an AIC valve on E-bay for about $99. Here's a link, if you're interested. Do you know if VBO is ODM? I can't see the label clearly on this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Idle-Air-Control-Valve-For-Volvo-w-Bendix-Regina-System-Fits-740-760-940-/190678825406?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6557f9be&vxp=mtr
:)
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posted by
someone claiming to be Susan
on
Sun Oct 27 16:24 CST 2013 [ RELATED]
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Thanks a bunch! I saw a trick in the FAQs where if you clamp down the hose off the AIC valve and the car sputters or stalls that the AIC is OK and if it stays the same it's malfunctioning. Might be worth trying this, too?
Susan :)
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never heard of doing that before now.
why not?
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Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
Connect one end of the test light to the negative terminal of the battery, and the other end of the test light to the end of the negative battery cable, so that the light is now "inserted" into the circuit between the cable and the battery.
Check the intensity of the test light. A faint glow is normal and indicative of the small current used to power the car's computer and clock. A bright glow means you have a significant battery drain that needs to be repaired.
Leave the test light in place, and begin to remove fuses one at a time from the fuse panel. Check the test light after you remove each one. If the light is on, replace the fuse and move on to the next one.
Pinpoint the circuit that is causing the battery drain when you pull a fuse and the test light goes out.
you can insert you meter instead of the test light, using dc volts 20 setting.
read the voltage as you pull fuses
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posted by
someone claiming to be Susan
on
Sun Oct 27 12:55 CST 2013 [ RELATED]
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Thanks, trichard! Your explanation sounds like I should be able to follow (at least I hope so!). Wish I could tackle this today, but I need to wait until next weekend. It will be nice to finally try out the meter!
Susan
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posted by
someone claiming to be susan
on
Tue Oct 29 21:37 CST 2013 [ RELATED]
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Thanks for the video, 740_Dan! I'll get back into this issue over the weekend and will watch it then! :)
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I am not great with electrics, but no one has replied so far so I'll give it a go.
It is strange that the PO changed batts 3x, it seems he never investigated the actual source of the problem. I don't think it would be the compressor. You need to have a meter that measures where the voltage is going to ground, by trial and error. Iirc, didn't you get one? Put it on that wire and see what it says. What position is the ac switch in?
You could do that in the fuse box also, checking various paths. But you may have to take it to someone who knows electrics. I can say that this is uncommon on these cars.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Susan
on
Sun Oct 27 12:17 CST 2013 [ RELATED]
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Hi JerryC! Thanks for your reply. It sure does seem like the source of a problem wasn't fixed considering the white wire was cut. I did disconnect the wire and had the car jumped. When I got to Advance Auto, the battery was showing like 12.7 volts. I drove it around for a bit, and this morning the car started OK.
I have the button pushed in for the AC, but the orange light around it isn't showing. Unsure if a fuse blew. I don't recall if the light was showing when I first got it back after the wire was connected and then went out, though.
When I look back through the previous owner's history, here's what I get:
7/11: Battery at 245,056 miles
10/11: Belts for alternator, AC, power steering
11/11: Battery
6/12: Battery and voltage regulator
9/13: I got a new battery at 256,000 miles (the one in the car was showing a dead cell)
I did get a meter, but I can't figure out how to use it. I wish I could find someone who would come to my house and show me how to check out all this stuff, that's for sure. I gather that I could Google how to use a meter, but the instructions in the book are a bit over my head.
I have read online (not specifically about Volvos) that AC compressors can drain a battery because of a "clutch" or something that isn't right. I Googled "AC compressor draining battery?"
Even after all the work I had done, I still have an idle surge that's driving me nuts and a vibration in the car, which just seems to be all over. I do believe part of the vibration is from the rear brake light box on the rear windshield, but I don't know how to fix it. The idle surge is driving me more nuts than the vibration, though. My biggest concern is the drive to Phoenix and back, which is coming up the third week of November. I sure hope that all goes well with the trip!!
:)
Susan
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