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Hello All:
1967 Volvo 122S wagon. Over Labor Day weekend we were staying at a friend's house upstate. "Virginia" drove great as always - fantastic highway car.
There was a lot of rain that weekend and when we tried to drive away on midday Monday, she could not quite make it up the very steep driveway. The 'AMP' light was on the whole time, and it seemed like she was running on two cylinders' worth of power. After several attempts, the 'AMP' light suddenly went off, we took off up the driveway, and drove the hour and forty-five minutes home without incident.
Later that night, when driving the car again the 'AMP' light came on again, and it has been on ever since but without the loss of power I described earlier. The car is running perfectly except for the lamp being on.
To be safe, I went under the hood, broke every electrical connection, added a small smear of dialetric grease to all of the connectors, remade all of the connections, and replaced the plugs, wires and points for good measure. 'AMP' light still comes on.
Any suggestions for diagnostic tests? This car has a generator and I changed the brushes about six years (15,000 miles)/ ago.
Thanks in advance, gang.
Cheers,
Pooch
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There is a link to MTF on my recently posted thread, my starter won't start. It describes 10 tests you can use your voltmeter for including gen/alt output
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I lean toward installing a delco alternator conversion. Ron kwas has the bracket an the conversion. Is a snap. I've done all On my way! Amazons and I would never go back. The delcos are dirt cheap . I got all mine for no more thn 40 bux at a shot. No more glowing amp light when the winter driving gives you darkness, rain, snow and ya need heat and defrosters all at once.
Absolutely the best possible upgrade to an amazon!!!
mike
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Mike;
Thanks for the unsolicited testimonial and recommendation, but you know how I feel about the $40 Special "Rebuilt" alternators...they rarely are completely and properly rebuilt and as good (and reliable!) as new...factory Delco (truly) rebuilt units are around $100 and they look and perform great, and last for ages, not just to the 30 day guarantee...just saying...
Cheers
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Hello Mike T. and Ron:
Funny, I just sent an e-mail to Ron about 20 minutes ago. I am still trying to keep my generator since I like the OEM setup. Of course, that is after I finally caved and added the push-button start (brilliant idea) and I just e-mailed Ron because I am giving up on the hydraulic brake switch after replacing it for the 5th time (another good idea). I am probably going to be the alternator guy before too long.
Baby steps people, baby steps.
Cheers,
Jeff Pucillo
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voltmeter
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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Hello Aleekat:
Yes, I have a voltmeter. I checked the voltage last week across the battery and found 11.8 volts. I was hoping someone could propose some other diagnostic tests. I know little about the voltage regulator, for instance, although I opened it and everything seemed to be sound.
I am all ears, folks.
Cheers,
Pooch
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11.8 volts is flatter than flat. Battery can be flat and still show about 12.5volts.You can start at either end of the system. Charge the battery overnight or longer and see what it reads, If you have an ammeter on the charger it will probably start about 4 amps but should go down as it charges and may bottom out at 1 amp. A battery place can do a voltage drop test to see how it handles a load. From the other end you need to see if the dynamo is making any power. Tests are in the manual. No volts means the regulator has nothing to do and the red light stays on. With the top off you should see the contacts close as you increase the revs to about 900-1000 rpm. Light should then go out. Contacts can sometimes be sticky if the car hasn't been used for a while. Mine sometimes needs a bunch of revs to make it go out and then is OK. When checking the battery with the light on the meter will read the battery. When the regulator switches the light out the meter will read the voltage being generated, about 13.8v with a dynamo/generator.
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Hello DerekUK and AleeKat:
Good advice, all. I will get out there again on Saturday, investigate, and let you know what I find.
I had no idea how that regulator works. Time to do some Googling.
Cheers,
Pooch
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There's some good guidance here:
www.amazoncars.co.uk/pdfs/IgnElect(2).PDF
Did you check the smallest fuse?
Sounds like something got wet, most likely the generator but worth checking fanbelt tension as well just to be sure.
--
1967 131, 1977 Volvo 245 DL, 65 VW Bug, 71 VW Westy
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Hello Aidan:
Thanks for this note. I just got indoors from working on this and I continue to be perplexed. I took advice from other kind users and cracked open the manual, looking at the tests and could not perform ONE satisfactorily. I have a good voltmeter and I THINK I know how to use it so I am a bit stumped.
1) Cut-in Voltage - The manual says to 'connect a voltmeter across D+ on the charging regulator and dynamo frame.' I set my voltmeter for DC voltage, put the positive electrode on the D+ screw of the regulator and touched the negative electrode to the body of the generator. I tried the actual ground screw of the generator, and also the mounting bracket and no voltage was measured no matter what RPM I applied.
2) Cut-out Current - The manual says to 'Connect an ammeter in series with B+ on the charging regulator and the battery lead.' I set my voltmeter for ohms, put the positive electrode on the B+ screw of the regulator but was not quite sure what to with the negative in order to connect in series. Should I disconnect the battery lead and connect the negative electrode to that? That would put it in series as opposed to parallel, correct?
Aidan, I looked at that service bulletin you sent from the amazoncarsuk guys, and I was a bit perplexed but that is because I am an idiot. I did not quite understand the part about the polarity. Yes, I could have lost the polarity of the charger, but I am not sure how to "apply 12 volts" as they said in the bulletin. Any advice would be appreciated there.
Sorry to bother you guys with this. I know I sound like a lost cause but I have kept this car running for 9 years I want to keep it running for nine more at least. Your time is beyond valued.
Cheers,
Pooch
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Jeff,
I've long admired your tenacity in running Virginia as a daily - the thread titles are always entertaining too. I usually get to visit NYC once a year and have always kept an eye out for Virginia (no luck yet though in near enough ten years of wandering Manhattan).
I'm by no means an electrical expert so here's a link from my VW favourites:
http://www.speedyjim.net/htm/gen.htm
Hopefully its better described. If your initial test of checking for voltage from D+ has failed then it does sound as if the generator itself is at fault but it'd be worth working though Jim's steps in order. I've had some luck in getting a generator working again by polarizing them as described in the link but mine usually lose polarity through lack of use. The brushes are worth investigating too.
There's a lot to be said for converting to an alternator but I can understand why you've resisted so far - I've tried to keep mine original too. Should the generator prove to be defunct then it might be worth considering an upgrade as there are many advantages.
--
1967 131, 1977 Volvo 245 DL, 65 VW Bug, 71 VW Westy
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Hello Aidan:
Short but FANTASTIC article. It turns out the generator needed to be polarized. DONE. Now to improve the settings on the voltage regulator. I love learning about this stuff.
Thanks again.
Cheers,
Pooch
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Great! Glad you got it working again
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1967 131, 1977 Volvo 245 DL, 65 VW Bug, 71 VW Westy
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Hello Aidan:
I now know what I am doing this weekend. THANKS. This is extremely helpful.
Let me know the next time you are in New York.
Cheers,
Pooch
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you need to check it static, running, with all accessories on.
https://www.google.com/search?q=testing+generator&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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