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1980 245 DL TEMPERATURE GUAGE ISSUE 200

posted by  leinie on  Mon Sep 9 16:30 CST 2013
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last visit: Wed Sep 11 13:39 CST 2013
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Car is not overheating, but very little movement on temp. guage after driving. Coolant level good. Should I change temp board, or check temp sender in engine block. Notsure where's it is.








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    1980 245 DL TEMPERATURE GUAGE ISSUE 200

    posted by  someone claiming to be CB on  Mon Sep 9 20:55 CST 2013 [RELATED]

    The 80 has a Temp Comp Module attached to the rear of the Gas/Temp board.

    It is oblong brass with blade connections...it pulls easily off the board from the rear.

    Inside are common resistors...(pry back the lips of the brass shell)

    what usually goes wrong when it fails, is that the Temp rises to near the Red, even though the system is just fine.

    I don't know about your particular problem, but this is just to let you know that there is a "compensator" on the 80. On later models it was replaced by the "board"








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      1980 245 DL TEMPERATURE GUAGE ISSUE 200

      uid 2796's pic
      posted by  bulletproof on  Mon Sep 9 21:53 CST 2013
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      last visit: Fri Oct 24 12:02 CST 2014
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      That is not a temperature compensator. It is a voltage regulator. It provides a constant 10vdc to the temp and fuel gauges. When it fails both gauges read higher than actual.

      The part you describe was used through '85. It is in no way a predecessor to the temp comp board. '86 and up uses a different voltage regulator for the same purpose as well as the temp comp board.


      --
      '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon








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        1980 245 DL TEMPERATURE GUAGE ISSUE 200

        posted by  someone claiming to be CB on  Tue Sep 10 17:50 CST 2013 [RELATED]

        and your point is?








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          Voltage stabilizer for gauge 200 1980

          uid 27's pic
          posted by  Art Benstein on  Wed Sep 11 09:27 CST 2013
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          last visit: Fri Oct 17 20:10 CST 2014
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          The stabilizer used in the '80 provides a stable source to keep both fuel and temp gauges independent of the normal variations in the car's electrical system.

          My point, if I had made it, would be this "compensator" affects both gauges in just the way Charlie observed, when it fails. Most of the original units are mechanical, using a bi-metallic strip heated by a coil of wire to return an average stable reference source. The replacement units were simply three-terminal integrated circuit 10V voltage regulators stuffed into the same can (the gold shiny thing in the picture below) for direct fit.

          The rub comes when you need to troubleshoot. If the can contains electronics, verifying it is simple -- you just pull the yellow wire off of the sender in the head and measure for 10.0 volts. But, if the can contains the heated bi-metal strip, your modern meter will make it difficult for you to distinguish one that has failed from one that is working.

          In practice (at the dealership back in the day) one would replace the unit and verify the gauge with a 68 ohm resistor for a standard gauge deflection.


          --
          Art Benstein near Baltimore

          Captcha hater








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            Voltage stabilizer for gauge 200 1980

            uid 2796's pic
            posted by  bulletproof on  Wed Sep 11 13:03 CST 2013
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            last visit: Fri Oct 24 12:02 CST 2014
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            Art, I admire your diplomacy, as always.

            But this device is not a forerunner to the temp comp board, contrary to what CB would have us believe.


            --
            '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon








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    1980 245 DL TEMPERATURE GUAGE ISSUE 200

    uid 2796's pic
    posted by  bulletproof on  Mon Sep 9 17:27 CST 2013
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 12:02 CST 2014
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    1980? Unless that's a typo there is no temp board.

    The sender is at the upper left front of the engine and should have a single yellow wire connected to it. Disconnect the wire from the sender and secure it to a good ground. Turn the ignition key to position II (idiot lights on).

    Observe the gauge. If the needle doesn't move jostle the wire. If the needle jumps around it's the wiring. But if it goes to the top of the scale without any jostling it's the sender.

    --
    '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon








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      1980 245 DL TEMPERATURE GUAGE ISSUE 200

      posted by  leinie on  Mon Sep 9 19:15 CST 2013
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      last visit: Wed Sep 11 13:39 CST 2013
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      Thanks. Haven't worked on an 80 for awhile, forgot no board. I'll try grounding tomorrow. Any easy way of pulling sender plug?








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        1980 245 DL TEMPERATURE GUAGE ISSUE 200

        posted by  TONY H on  Tue Sep 10 11:43 CST 2013
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        last visit: Fri Oct 17 16:39 CST 2014
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        you should be able to get under the Intake and get at it with a socket, a swivel and long extension.
        As Machine Man said, keep the radiator cap on as well as the Overflow cap. That will keep the Coolant from flowing freely out the Sender hole. Have the new sender real handy and ready, take one out, get the new one over the hole and screw screw it counter clockwise until you feel those hefty threads drop into each other then screw it clockwise down snug. Don't be in such a hurry that you cross thread it.
        --
        '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/








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        1980 245 DL TEMPERATURE GUAGE ISSUE 200

        posted by  machine man on  Mon Sep 9 19:26 CST 2013
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        last visit: Wed Oct 22 15:40 CST 2014
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        Yes, leave everything about you coolant system cold and buttoned up. It will not leak very much coolant that way, if you have to change it out.

        Phil







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