Hi all,

FYI. Both "Uro" ball joints installed by mechanic when I got my Swedish Baklava. I replaced them with Meyle brand. Those Uro brand lasted around 69,000 miles. The driver side was getting soft/loose. The passenger side was too stiff??







http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1532824/220/240/260/280/re_87_245_auto_ball_joint.html

Funny. You replaced Uro with Meyle. I replaced Meyle with Uro...

http://cleanflametrap.com/balljoint.html

But, as you know, we don't have the BQE down here. :)
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

I never drink water because of the disgusting things that fish do in it. - W.C. Fields

Too funny! Hahahaha!!!



So far, I have no problems with Uro coolant hoses and engine mounts. Except when I got this set. I returned both tie rods and ball joints.

BTW, I have never seen this page until today. I see that you like to keep a diary like me.

http://cleanflametrap.com/balljoint.html

Pertaining to URO brand I have their motor mounts installed on my 90 244 and one passenger side mount on our 92 245.

Why only the passenger side?

Well, the OEM Volvo mount's stud disconnected from the inside. They come with the one time use nuts and when I was tightening it (ratcheting by hand) the one time use nut was manufactured too tight for the stud. Instead of stretching to size it broke the stud. Which meant the motor mount was then a zero time use motor mount.

The only problem I found with the URO mounts are that they are a bit more rigid and the vibration is a bit harsh. I have been putting up with it and will switch them out when they fail.

Travis

Hi Travis,

Very interesting.

After installing Uro engine mounts, my car ran harsh for 30,000 miles, rides better much smoother now. During oil change, I rarely spill oil onto the mount.

Put a plastic bag over the passenger side motor mount when changing the oil. That worked for me...:)

Hi Jim,

My next oil change is coming up soon, I will try a grocery bag.

Normally, battery disconnected, I use a piece of alum. foil or saran wrap. I had very successful result using Art's method; wedge a rag in between.

As always, thank you.

Good Evening Flying Brick!

Is that your real name?? Should I call you Mr. Brick?

Rags, foil or plastic bags work equally well. As long as the mount is protected from dripping motor oil that's all that really matters.

But wait, isn't NYC about to restrict the use of plastic bags? My hometown will shortly ban them as have many locals. However, one could recycle said bag almost endlessly by using it to protect your Volvo 240's passenger side motor mount during oil changes...:)

J

Hi All,

I put 87,000 miles. The both ball joints was still good but I decided to replace them while I was replacing struts. For me, saving time is more essential.

I bought a HFT 18 volt 1/2" cordless impact wrench but it didn't work. I had to heat up with propane torch to loosen the mounting plate bolts. I also used my leg to persuade them. That's a 140 mile iron man leg. I return the wrench. :(






What's this plastic ring around the joint???

As always, thank you.

Too bad about the HF impact. I have one and it works very well. Note that any cordless impact will have to beat on a rusty fastener for several seconds before loosening. Don't expect it to instantly zip it off. Maybe you got a bad one? Quality control is not a HF strong point.

Hi Adirondack,

I charged the battery and gave a few attempts but failed. Heating up with a propane torch really helped. I should have done that from the start. I wasted my energy and ruined my favorite nut breaker. Next day, loosening a crankshaft pulley bolt seemed too easy.

It was recommended by Ted and I had a high expectation. Maybe I should give another shot.

As always, thank you.

Going with Moog problem solvers next go round with grease fittings about $30 at Rock auto. Just picked up 4 moog problem solver tie rod ends for $2.79 each from rock auto along with some air filters for the same price.

Hi Joekidd,

Please let us know how long it lasts. The video shows my daily riding condition. It feels good to replace items like ball joints & tie rods. I think strut & shocks don't last no more than 80,000 miles based on my driving condition. I can definitely put more miles on ball joint & tie rods.

http://s1170.photobucket.com/user/87_flying_brick/media/misc/20150917_202924_zpsxlzugbug.mp4.html?sort=3&o=1



As always, thank you.

not much had changed.

I escaped NYC in 1975. I drove a cab in college...a Checker...If you want to drive an old car on those streets, You need a big old leaf spring-ed, non MacPherson strutted suspension, so you can change the shocks every 6 months by just taking off a couple of nuts on each.

What extra you'll spend on gas you'll save on parts and time.

cheers

"I drove a cab in college...a Checker"

In the 70's I also drove a Checker cab, on Sundays for a couple years, but not in NYC. What a great back seat. It was the first example, for me, of a car that could achieve multiple six-digit miles.

It had a Chevy 250 six under the hood. In 77 I bought a new van with that same engine and had it through 220K miles when the rust took over. The engine never gave me an opportunity to find out what was inside.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

A man and his ever-nagging wife went on vacation in Jerusalem . While they were there, the wife passed away. The undertaker told the husband, "You can have her buried here in the Holy Land for $150 or we can have her shipped back home for $5000. The husband thought about it and told the undertaker he would have her shipped back home. The undertaker asked him, "why would you spend $5000 to have her shipped home when you could have a beautiful burial here, and it would only cost $150????" The husband replied, "Long ago, a man died here, was buried here, and three days later, rose from the dead. I Just can't take that chance".

Hi Charles,

Excluding gas, tools, & car insurance, I am spending about 1 penny per mile based on last 2 years of maintenance cost. First 2 years spending bill was brutal.

As always, thank you.