Just replaced my first motor mount. The passenger side mount was not broken, but had sheered internally so the bolts were offset. I was also feeling some extra shake at idle.

1) I opted for the lift from the top method. Used a 2x6 oriented the long way with an eye bolt through it and S hooks to the engine. Even with some padding and a wood shim to spread the load, I still made a some very slight dents in top of the front quarter panels. I wish I had seen this post first

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1339838/220/240/260/280/split_motor_mount.html

2) Took off the top nut on the rubber mount, then lifted the engine. Took off the three nuts under the car and the lower nut on the rubber mount. At this point I was able to wiggle the rubber mount and the lower metal piece free.

3) Using the above method, I didn't have to remove the oil filter as suggested by a post by Jorrel that I can't find right now. I probably had to raise the engine more to compensate.

4) Saw an old unanswered post by Sean about torque values for motor mount nuts. Then I broke one of the bolts on lower metal mount.

5) Removed everything again as before, hammered out the broken bolt and replaced it with a 3/8 flange head bolt (1 1/2 long). Fortunately the one I broke was the accessible one, so I could actually tightened the replacement.

6) On the 89 the accumulator is up by the right front headlight and so there is much more elbow room to work on the mount from the top. My 91 has it up by the firewall. (This made the cps on my 91 a pain with a combination wrench.)

7) Heat shroud on the exhaust manifold removed long ago also contributes to the extra space.

Thanks again to everyone on the brickboard for teaching me how to work on my cars.
-Spencer