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I thought I'd post this in case anyone else is doing the same and doesn't have a set of nice press sleeves:
I installed new front end PU bushings this weekend, and had some difficulty with the front bushing. I actually fubared one control arm while pressing out the bushing. The 1.75" ID press sleeve I was using collapsed and I bent the arm. That bushing requires a fair amount of pressure, so I found out that a 1.5" galvanized pipe coupling (from my local HomeyD) has the proper 1.75" ID and is very robust. You'll need to get two of them so you can stack them to completely press the bushing out. And to boot, when you're done, you can take advantage of HomeyD's gracious return policy ;)
Z
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93 240 170k, 97 850GLT 165k
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If you're talking about the small bushings in front that pivot on the subframe, rather than the huge rear bushings just below the firewall, then I tried to have them removed by a shop when I was converting to all-poly for my front end. The shop gave up (they said the angle was too difficult because of the shape of the control arm).
So then I realized that I could buy brand new (rust free!) control arms from my Volvo dealer inexpensively*, and they come without any bushings, to it's a snap to push in new IPD's poly bushings.
* the first price is list, the second is a discount for VCOA membership, from my dealer. The price was, to me, worth the savings in aggravation and frustration :-).
Left: 1205680-0, $117.58/$105.82
Right: 1205686-7, $117.58/$105.82
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Yes, the front bushing on the control arm. On my drivers side it was toast along with the rear control arm bushing, but the passenger sides were fine.
It is a very awkward setup in the press, but I'd assume a good shop would have a press with a larger bed than my Horrible Freight special. And if you thought the front control arms were tough, the front trailing arm bushings are impossible. The metal shell on them is much thinner and hard to get square with the press. I eventually gave up on pressing them out, and burnt the rubber out, then kerfed the metal shell with a hacksaw in a couple of places, then used an air chisel to loosen it. Only then could I get it pressed out.
And believe me, I too thought of just buying new arms, except at that point my battle wagon was up on blocks in the alley behind my house, and I couldn't leave it there while waiting for the new ones to show up.
For future reference, are the Scantech control arms that FCP stocks for $36/ea any good?
Z
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93 240 170k, 97 850GLT 165k
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I was in restoring my 242 and when I got the front end apart, discovered that one control arm had rust welded itself to the rear bushing. I eventually got it off, but messed up the mount a bit. I bought a Scan Tech control arm. Usually Scan Tech stuff is terrible, but this part has initially surprised me VERY much with the quality of construction and nice powder coating. We'll see how it holds up. There were no bushings in it--I put poly front ones in both arms. I always just cut them out with a hack saw, to no ill effects. Much easier than trying to press those things!
Nate
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I use them all the time. The rubber won't last as long, but I got 60,000 miles so far on mine.
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Hi,
You're right about the HF press, it cannot be done.
It can be done with a large vise (as it shows in the Bentley manual). I have a very large old heavy duty vise I did them with. I used OEM Boge rubber bushings. They are a BEAR! I have done the rear TABs, the large control arm bracket bushings and torque rod bushings. Those were all cake compared to the front C.A. bushings.
I had to due the job due to rust pulling/eating the sway bar link's mounting ears on the control arm on my wife's 92 245.
I bought Dorman control arms from ebay, so they are probably the same as the Scantech arms from FCP.
They looked pretty much identical to the old OEM control arms.
Now if I can only find the time to install them on my wife's car...
While on topic-while searching 90 244 parts on Rockauto the other day I spotted front control arms made by Moog WITH bushings for approx. $60 each. I have never seen 240 control arms sold with bushings installed.
Travis
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> You're right about the HF press, it cannot be done.
No, it *can* be done, I did both on my 12T HF shop press. It's just not easy. You have to remember that you're driving the bushing out of the arm upwards, so the larger sleeve goes on top of the arm, and the driver (15/16" socket) goes on the bottom. After that, it's just a balancing act of the arm, the driver, the sleeve and keeping everything lined up and square. You need a half dozen hands ;)
Z
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93 240 170k, 97 850GLT 165k
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That's a good setup, luckily mine weren't terribly corroded, so I was able to easily press out the rears without any press adapters. I tapped them back in with a hammer no problem.
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93 240 170k, 97 850GLT 165k
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Ohhh, you actually did the fronts. That's a whole 'nother story. I hope not to *ever* need those replaced. :)
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Flowers leave some of their fragrance in the hand that bestows them. -Ancient Chinese Proverb
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My conclusion after replacing the front control arm and the front trailing arm bushings myself: it's worth paying someone to do it.
Z
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93 240 170k, 97 850GLT 165k
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Well, you're successful if you can find someone you can put your trust in -- just as well as taking the care to do the job yourself.
So far whenever I've had a trailing arm or front control arm disconnected and hanging by the small bushing, it was clear to me that bushing still had life in it. Not so with any of the others, just those four. I'm glad I've been able to resist the temptation to use those parts just because I already bought them.
Seriously, you take those pieces of plumbing back to the store for credit?? Just joking I think.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
He who obtains has little. He who scatters has much. -Lao Tzu
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