So, how difficult is it to replace the ball joints on an '84 240? It looks like all I would have to do is remove the three bolts that hold it to the control arm, then the big nut that holds it to the knuckle. After it is out of the car, use a pickle fork and a big arse hammer to pry off the plate and reuse that on the new part. Reassembly the reverse of disassembly.

Of course, it can't possibly be *that* easy. So what am I missing?

If you run into problems getting the center nut off the old BJ, the threaded spindle is relatively soft steel and easily drilled out(ask me how I know...). Once the nut is off, you can just tap the old BJ out.

Do note that the ball joint shank it tapered, and it's easy to over-torque the bolt when you're installing the new one. Just wipe the mating surfaces clean, and smear a small amount of oil or a very small amount of grease (just a film) on the new shank before torquing, and be sure to use a torque wrench.

Hey Smitty, good to see you on the board. Let me guess - you had to look something up and decided to hang around and answer some questions? That's usually what prompts me to show up and put in my two cents.

Regarding the ball joints, some of the ones I have used lately are a pain in the butt to get seated in the strut anchor so that they do not spin while you torque the top nut. If you find that to be the case, a couple of c-clamps can put enough pressure on it to keep it from spinning.

Yep, you hit the nail on the head. Ol' Son o'Gutz has been pretty trouble-free that I don't find myself here much. He's 21 now and at about 263K.

One tip you might wanna remember: lift both wheels, even if you're only doing one ball joint. Takes the strain off of the anti-sway bar.

240 Volvo Ball Joint Replacement
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"The more people I meet, the more I like my dog"

Hi John,

It was very difficult for me but it was doable.






http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1566198/220/240/260/280/re_87_245_auto_ball_joint_stuck_bolt_swing_arm.html

I had to take my 90 740s entire control arms (both sides) in to get them removed with a hydraulic press. They said it took a lot of pressure to remove them. I'm guessing the 240's are a different style though.

Good luck!

I had problems getting the nut off the ball joint. I took it to a tire shop, they loosened it for free. It took longer to drive there, than have them loosen it. Just a thought.
--
Sandy '83 244 DL current, '90 240, '93 850 memories

It is "that easy" technically. It's the frozen nuts/bolts that get in the way sometimes (so as noted...soak those with PB Blaster for a few days before), and also the threaded area of the tie rod holding the ball joint on.

The worse part will be trying to pry the ball joint out. DO NOT USE A HAMMER. Get one of those screw-type ball-joint removers, it worked the best for me. I also tried the fork-type remover on a friends 240, and it didn't work nearly as well.

...the one connecting the control arm to the strut housing.

Your post has good tips for removing the Tie Rod End, which does have a ball joint, but that's not the Ball Joint being discussed here, and referenced in the Bentley 240 manual 610-6, Figs 19 and 20.


FCP pic



--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

k-jet.org for free factory manuals.

Hi John,

Remove the 4 bolts on the bottom of strut/ball joint anchor and the three on the control arm. Take off the large nut securing it to the plate and what I did was place the plate in a vise and smack the top of the protruding ball joint's stud with a hammer and it should pop off the plate.

I would spray everything down with Pblaster or similar before trying to disassembling.

I don't have my Bentley manual handy right now so hopefully someone will chime in with torque specs. but the bolts at the bottom of the anchor plate aren't too much-13 ft. lbs. if I remember right.

Travis

Don't forget the lock-tite an the small bolts.