Hey everybody

The M46 in my 88 240DL has been leaking lately, and yesterday it seemed to rupture pretty badly, making the leak a lot worse. So today, I decided to pull the transmission to replace the seals because I already had them on hand from FCP. I got through just about everything, and I even was able to comfortably negotiate the top bolts on the bellhousing. However, now that the trans is disconnected from the engine, I can't get it out. It'll move back a few inches, but then the little bubble for the starter on the bellhousing hits the floor pan, and I can't get back any farther. I have tried to rotate it, but it won't go that far. I'm pretty stumped on this one, so any help would be appreciated. This is my first time removing a transmission, so it's entirely possible I've overlooked something simple. Thanks guys.

Did you remove the shift handle assembly? Otherwise, the input shaft could be stuck in the pilot bearing.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

I did remove the shift lever, but the shifter cage is still on the transmission. I didn't see any guides that said to remove it, so I guess I ruled that out. Is there any remedy to the input shaft being stuck in the pilot bearing though?

Hello,


How are you doing this? With a floor jack?

The transmission must be rotated quite a bit counterclockwise. This is also the main consideration when reinstalling. I always end up lifting the transmission into position by hand. It is difficult.

To unstick the input shaft, you must ‘‘wiggle’’ the whole transmission backwards. This requires lifting it.


Goatman

Thanks for the reply,

I've been using a transmission jack. I do have a friend who is willing to help, so I'll try to do it without the jack. I had a suspicion that it might have been impeding my rotation.

I have pulled and installed at least 10 M46's over the years, and can say there are just enough interference points to inhibit a gentle, jack guided removal in most cases. As mentioned, it needs to be rotated counter clockwise to help clear the starter hump, but you usually also run into interference in the top or sides of the trans tunnel further back by the shifter cage. Also, it is really hard to get just the right amount of upward support from a jack without having ANY angular forces on the shaft and spline still sitting in the pilot bearing. I think those angular forces are what keep it from coming out really easily.

I usually let the engine lean back as far as I dare (so as to drop the output shaft of the transmission). Sometimes with a block of wood on the firewall, or sometimes right against the firewall in the case of B21's. I then remove the jack, letting everything hang freely, and get directly under the transmission, with my back on the ground, and my head facing forward, about under the oil pan. At this point, I can reach up with my arms and "hug" the transmission. This allows me to exert some pretty direct force which includes some rotation (+/- 10 degrees from vertical), some side to side force to help clear the starter hump, and finally some rearward force to pull away from the splines. Usually after just a few seconds of spirited wiggling, it pops off and I'm holding it on my chest freely. I can scoot a bit to the rear and a bit to the side and gently let it roll off my chest and onto the floor.

Despite it sounding crazy, I think this method no only gets it out with minimum trouble, but it also takes away some of the risks of using a jack and trying to stay out of the way, which usually involves gingerly reaching under the car and moving the transmission in the direction you think required to break it loose, but ultimately staying out of the way. Eventually, it does come loose, and if you aren't careful, comes toppling down. I've seen broken solenoids and smashed hands with this method. However, if you get under it, you remove all the potential energy. Once it breaks free, it has nowhere to fall because you've filled that space with your body. As long as you don't mind a brief 90 pounds on your chest, it is a much more predictable experience.

Wow, thanks so much for such a detailed response. I'm almost excited to get back out there and wrestle with 100 pounds of greasy transmission. I'll give it a shot with your method. Thanks again.

One thing that I've run into when the tranny just won't come out is collapsed motor mounts. If the engine is sitting too low because of failed mounts, particularity on the right side, it can be next to impossible to get the transmission to come out. If this is the case, get another jack and jack up on the crank pulley just enough to mimic the proper height of the engine with good mounts. This tip saved my butt more than once. Good luck.

I've been taking another approach.

I first hang the engine from a engine support and then remove the motor mounts completely. I also made a spreader shackled to the front and rear engine lifting lugs. The spreader has long, load-rated, FORGED eyebolts on either end which provide a lot of adjustment to the inclination of the engine. (I know that the engine/trans assembly doesn't weigh all that much, but it's my ass lying under that hunk of cast iron and I'm certainly not going to trust it to some bent wire, Chinese eyebolts from Home Depot)

Correctly rigged, the engine/transmission are floating and can be easily moved and tilted into the best angle for removing the trans.

I also put a small piece of 1 1/2" thick lumber between the cylinder head and the firewall. This maintains the clearance needed for the trans to be pulled towards the rear of the car.

And, I watch my front teeth - the trans can come off abruptly.


Rich - Near Pittsburgh