I'm sorry if this looks like a double post but I didn't know how to delete my previous posting. I looked up torque values at http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/FrontSuspension.html#TorqueValues but I still am left a little confused with the wording about the sway bar. My control arm looks a little different than the picture as well. Would anyone know why Volvo used both styles during production? For the tie rods, there is no torque value, I just need an accurate ruler to measure 42mm between the outer washers? Also, this is probably the most important question of all, how do you properly break loose the ball joints for the control arm and steering rack? My father tells me you need to shock it free with a hammer, and jack up on the strut if need be, but is there any other way? I haven't been able to free up the control arm ball joint (under the strut) on any of my family's volvos.

Typically there will be a knob-like protrusion on the control arm which has a flat surface. With ample clearance and the car firmly supported and the control arm hanging loose, strut still attached to its upper mount, strike that flat surface firmly with a small, say 3lb., sledge. A couple of sharp raps should break the ball joint shaft loose. Then swing the control arm down. This works 95% of the time, I live and work in the Western US though, no guarantees for salt state cars.

Gotcha. When you say have the control arm hanging loose, that means nuts and bolts removed and pried down? That would definitely add more weight pressing down on the ball joint. Should I have the ball joint removed half way? If I remove it all the way it would probably fall and hit the ground then, but probably cause no damage. Thanks for your help, this is a New England car by the way, so it's salty.

By hanging loose I mean that there is no support under the control so that when the ball joint is released the control arm will be able to swing down and out of the way still fastened to the frame by the inner bushings. Leave those attached unless you are replacing the entire assembly. A whole assembly is sometimes a better deal...a ball joint can cost 40 bucks while a reman control arm with ball joint and bushings can be had for 125 bucks.