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Okay, Check engine light is on, but car is running well. Slight rumble and hesitation for the first five seconds, but after that, everything is fine.
Just traveled 600 miles, 200 of those with the check engine light in order to get home from VA to WV.
Slot A2 on the OBD is throwing a 231 code.
Here's a picture of my Cylinder #1 spark plug:
Would this be classified as "lean"?
I've read around a few threads suggesting it may something near the intake manifold, or maybe the o2 sensor.
Any suggestions?
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Hi Dan and wvcycling,
FYI, you guys are having similar issues.
Getting 231 code after head gasket replaced.
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1566904/220/240/260/280/1992_240_check_engine_light_codes.html
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I'm not sure if it's already been stated, but my 940 read this code and it turned out to be a vacuum leak on the bottom of a turbo hose running into the engine. Be sure to check. I taped it up and it runs like a million bucks.
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Please see (http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/)
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm
Code 2-3-1
2-3-1*
Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or too rich at part load }
If too lean: air leaks, low fuel pressure, bad sensor }
Engine stops when starting from cold; high fuel use or Fuel trim (lambda control) too rich at part load
Sensor indicating fault is Oxygen sensor
You do have a Volvo 900 series service manual, yes? Volvo OEM Green manual, Haynes, Chilton? No Bentley for 700/900/90 series.
Did you check both the fuel and ignition systems for set codes? Check all of slots for codes, and check them again.
Search here on the brickboard on how to check the 02 sensor function with the resistance function of a multimeter.
Hope that helps.
Buttermilk.
--
Broccoli.
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@kittysgreyvolvo
All slots on fuel and ignition side of OBD I have been checked before my previous post.
A2 - 2-3-1, as stated in last post. I'm familiar that the code is somewhat broad/vague in what directions I should be troubleshooting, and this is why I've attempted to provide the detail I am familiar with in order to narrow down the things I should be looking at replacing or repairing.
I have a spare o2 Sensor in the trunk. Replacing it is easy enough; the diagnostics that I have read through are not helpful for me. Reading it allows me to comprehend, but not transfer my knowledge in an applicable way.
Determining how to test low fuel pressure / FPR, I'm unfamiliar with this, nor do I care to jig up my own.
For a leak in the intake, how would I determine this?
As stated before, I was and am familiar that 2-3-1 indicated these three potential problems, I'm just looking for some clarification on how to narrow down my troubleshooting options.
B2 is showing 122, but I have a Bosch system, not Rex/Regina (which is indicative of the Air temperature sensor). I'm pretty sure this code always comes up (as shown from my January post about my car throwing codes: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1553514/940/960/980/V90/S90/first_obd_problems_postbrake_pad_inspection_940_diagnostics_check_engine_abs_brake_pads_codes.html )
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Uncle wvcycling,
Sorry to be so late in replying.
I have to cogitate a bit on this and I'm stuffed with work and am taking a break. Maybe later today (Wednesday) or tomorrow. The bike ride today at sublight velocities has me stuffed two. (And I'll go again.)
Your spark plug image shows a very clean spark plug, though. If the spark plug looked clean and sort of glazed, or the ceramic insulator was cracked, or the steel metal bits blued, that may be too lean. A really lean condition, like that beyond what all the little sensors and systems can compensate for would yield bad knocking (as pre-ignition) when you accelerate the engine or the engine is under load when it is nearing or fully warmed.
The error code indicates, of all sensors are working, that the air volume (or mass, rather) the AMM (or MAF) measures is at variance with the 02 in the exhaust.
A Volvo B230 redblock engine with the Bosch or Regina/Rex systems has all sorts of spaces to leak air on the intake side. Items age and become brittle, like air intake and vacuum hosing, the gaskets (throttle body to intake air port [or manifold] and intake air port to cylinder head). (The carbeurated manifold became an air intake port on fuel injected engines.)
Your 1995 940 is 18 years owld. I'd start with a review of the vacuum lines, the ends, specifically, where they connect a nipple to a nipple. They become brittle at the and can split along the length.
Look at the vacuum hose connecting the fuel rail fuel pressure regulator (FPR) to the air intake port or thottle body? No clamps on each end? Yet no fuel leaking from the FPR into the line? Try replacing and or sealing the line with plack plastic zip ties or small metal hose clamps.
The 940 series air intake accordion hose is a big and beefy beast versus the frail one in the Bosch LH-Jetronic equipped 240s. Yet air can get around the hose ends under the clamps is stuff moved. May try a re-seating.
Does your 1995 Volvo 940 come equipped with EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) and the AIR (air injector [or injection] reactor that pumps air into the exhaust port (or exhaust manifold)? You may have EGR, yet you may or may not have the AIR system (unless this is a Canadian model Volvo 940, ayyyyy!). The EGR system us a wee ghastly beast with sometimes two vacuum pumps and such. Focus on the vacuum lines, again. Under the air intake port it does get warm, and vacuum lines get brittle.
You may want to take a close look at the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) piping from the the top if the oil spectator breather box and all downstream into the air instake port. Pay particular attention to the phat hose that seals around the housing containing the flame trap or seive. As this and hose ages with heat and hydrocarbon vapor exposure, it gets brittle.
I have nipped the ends of vacuum line and use black plastic zip ties of appropriate length and width tightened just so; yielding a firm seal of the hose around the thing it attaches to.
If the hose is brittle, it won't seal, and you need get more vacuum line. Special hoses like those large diameter hoses comprising the PCV breather system may be a Volvo OEM or after market special order. Specifically with the PCV system is the large hose on top of the plastic PCV flame trap, or sieve, housing. It gets brittle. More so on turbo 940s with the high under hood temps. A junkyard run to your Volvo equipped junkyard me yield fresher, flexible, supple hoses you need, or you have to go to the auto parts store or Volvo dealership (try Tasca Parts) for that hose. The hose that secures to the top of the breather box and connects to the under-side nipple also becomes brittle, and can leak atmosphere as the running engine draws vacuum. That hose is a larger diameter vacuum line.
The PCV assembly comes up between the #3 and #4 air intake port runners to the cylinder head.
The parts can be brittle with heat and age. Like I said, you may try a local yunkyard with a 940, or even a later 700 or even a 240 to see the works. The vacuum setup on a 940 is more complicated than the 240/700.
I think that does it for the moment. I'm certain I'm forgetting something here.
You could check the torque of the eight nuts that secure the air intake port to the head. I've encountered these coming loose, yet be gentle on apply torque. I think 10 ft-lbs is the max. The gasket between the air intake port and the cylinder head can get brittle and deteriorate over time.
Does the 940 use engine vacuum to operate the under the dash HVAC flaps? I'm forgetting. I don't have access to my 940 series manual now. Maybe you could look at the FAQ here and find out. If yes, maybe vacuum faults can occur as with the center console three-button vacuum actuated flap control in the 240s? I've had to replace these before. And the vacuum lines on the vaccum chamber under the dash can leak.
Also, the injector seals on the B230 with Bosch LH-Jetronic can get brittle and not seals. On a COLD running engine, try some carb cleaner at the injector seal. If a change in the engine RPM, you may have an air intake leak here and you need to replace the seals.
You can use a small smoke stick or that fune dust stuff to see for leaks.
Vacuum leaks are bad. Very bad. About a hundred dollars. Yeah. Time for Wapner.
So, in order:
- Inspect all vacuum line where they connect. Remedy any line ends with splits and cracks. Replace with supple flexible line from a junkyard or new. Use clamps or black plastic zip ties to secure the ends. (Usually you can nip the ends and stick it back on the nipple, though it can split again if the vacuum line material integrity it faulty.)
- The PCV piping.
- The EGR vacuum line side piping.
- Injector seals
- Air intake port to cylinder head gasket and throttle body to air intake port gasket can fail.
Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, anyone else?
Don't use windshield washer line for engine vacuum hose. It works in a pinch, yet not meant for hydrocarbon filled vapor exposure.
A search of the brickboard archives may yield a persistent quality or component failure that may cause this problem for 1991-1995 Volvo 940s of similar configuration.
Sorry to be sloe (gin) on reply.
That bastard moon will be full in a few dayze and I feel it on my head already. Damned moon. (Yet less chance of life on Earth without the moon.)
If I had my druthers, I'd want a 1998 Volvo 940, normally aspirated (no turbo), with factory installed manual transmission. You can find them in Europa sometimes. They made the 940 to 1998. Pisses me off you can't have a U.S. market 940 with manual transmission. A few 1991 940s to have a manual transmission in North America. I saw one for sale on cars dot com in Texas in 2005 or so.
I'd hope it'd be something better than the frail M47 II or the cantankerous M46 with the overdrive. Like the M56 or M90 or better. Oh well.
Questions and comments?
Kitties and puppies?
Milkshakes and malteds?
Earl and Lady Grey Teas?
Boston Baked Beans?
Back to sleep.
Lettuce know how it goes, okay?
cheers,
MacDuffy's Tavern
--
Bing Crosby!
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Did you ever solve your problem? If so, would you be so kind to either email me at lbgillian@att.net or call me at (210) 875-1281? I have same issues and have been working on it for 4 weeks.
thanks,
Lamar Gillian
San Antonio, Texas
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Well, a few of the straight connecting pieces of vacuum hose, and one Y-connection were cracked. Replacing all of those.
For s#!ts and giggles, I removed the MAF sensor wire while car was running. It is running better without it than with it! Pretty sure it is the stock one from the factory.
I'm replacing the O2 sensor while I'm at it, since it is original also.
One of my fuel injectors is not acting right. I've replaced that, and all of the exhaust manifolds are running at the same temperature now, according to the infrared laser temp sensor. (and not sounding like a misfire).
My local shop was the one who determined the MAF sensor was legit kaput. They're not a Volvo specialist, but a "European speed shop." I'm throwing a link out to them, since they've been working on my Volvo, and another one within the same week: https://www.facebook.com/patsspeedshop
Labor rates are quite fair, there's a little bit of a learning curve with our Volvos, and I'm sure the labor bill reflects that a tiny bit. He gets the job done well, and provides tons of feedback and options in terms of whether he sources the parts or I do, etc.
He also installed the engine and transmission mounts that were in the back of the trunk for less time than the suggested labor time that Volvo expects it to take.
I'm piss poor at troubleshooting things, but give me instructions, and I can follow like a champ. I would have never thought to investigate those little rubber connecting pieces on the vacuum lines...
Thanks kittysgreyvolvo.
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WV- did the cracked hoses solve your 231 code? My hoses look great- I replaced the MAF-it too ran better disconnected- but the new one DID Not make it idle better or clear the code. All I think it did was take the lamba fuel adjustment out of the loop when unplugged- I still have a problem- tomorrow will try to blow myself up with a butane torch and see if I can find a leak with that. I couldnt with a stethascope- It very well could be an intake manifold gasket- but that seems so odd. But with 300K who knows.
Thanks in advance- AJ
--
Current: 86 245, RIP: 1983 245 Turbo, 1984 245 Turbo
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I'll letcha know when the parts come in and I put them in~
Until then, I'll be studying my butt off, or at the shooting range. (AKA, seldomly checking for replies :P)
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Interesting- I have a '95 940 with 300K, throwing code 231 -i cannot find a vaccum leak- just replaced FPR,AMM and O2 sensor-car idle really strange- up and down between 1000 and 1600 rpm - just after it warms a bit.the throttle body is clean, flame trap new, injectors rebuilt.
Will try all vaccum leaks again- any other ideas.... ?
AJ--
--
Current: 86 245, RIP: 1983 245 Turbo, 1984 245 Turbo
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All vacuum lines replaced with special looking Continental hoses. Replaced MAF, O2 sensor, and Fuel Injector #4 (kind of weak) and it still idles terribly, and runs best at 3000+RPM.
Also, it runs better without the o2 sensor plugged in than when it is plugged in.
I've spent a ton of time on this, and FCP groton owns half of my checking account right now because other stores keep sending me incorrect or broken parts which I end up having to return...
Local VW/AUDI mechanic has no clue, and retired volvo mechanic kind of shrugged after telling him everything I replaced.
I'm at a loss.
I can drive it now though... 15mpg or so fuel economy.... I have a big school conference 250 miles away that I have to go to tomorrow for an entire week. I'm exhausted and out of clues and hints. I'll drive it there the way it is, simply because I've given up.
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I'm late to the party on this one. have you replaced the 02 sensor, or tested it? there are FAQ instructions on how to do this.
Sometimes in a situation like this its best to throw the kitchen sink at it:
Pull the intake, Clean everything, replace TB and Intake gasket, inspect every hose and pipe.
would you mind listing the parts that are new?
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'90 245 290k, '93 945 296k
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O2 sensor has been replaced. The older one actually has it idling better than new one (Did FCP Euro get a bad one? Maybe)
I tested the old one with a multimeter, and it is running within variances, but not as strong of current as expected.
Haven't tested new one. I have too much homework :\
New Parts: O2 sensor, All small vacuum hoses in the engine compartment, MAF sensor, coolant temperature sensor, ambient air sensor, Fuel injector #4. (since it did not affect idling quality when disconnected. Others did.)
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"Fuel injector #4. (since it did not affect idling quality when disconnected. Others did.)"
did you confirm that the fault was the injector itself and not the wiring/connector?
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1989 245 245K / 1993 945 131K
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I did not, but idling did improve, and the exhaust manifolds heat up at a syncopated rate after the new fuel injector, as compared to exhaust port #4 staying about 20% cooler until all heated up (laser temp gun)
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As others have mentioned, if you have the time and skills it would be best to replace the intake manifold gasket and throttle body gasket and check all hoses (to and from idle air valve, large tube from airbox to throttle body) in the process.
I've heard stories about connecting a shop vac set to 'BLOW' to the exhaust pipe. You are then able to hear major leaks in the engine compartment. I woul recommend a bit more research on that though.
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'90 245 290k, '93 945 296k
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I have not yet tinkered with the gaskets, since my AMM is still sending 0.5v instead of 1.4v from connection #3 on the AMM.
A seasoned mechanic in Charleston WV suggested me to follow this problem by doing these three things, then reporting back:
* Replacing the Fuel Injector Relay ( 2 / 23 ), since the wire is related to that.
* Replace the ECU since the wire is related to that.
He also talked about pin #5 on the AMM having 12v, and to check on that, but it has 12v already.
I have a spare ECU (thank goodne$$), but I do not have the Hella relay for spot 2/23 - Does anyone have one and be willing to part with it for a little bit of cash?
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***EDIT***
I have not yet tinkered with the gaskets, since my BRAND NEW AMM (from FCP Groton, since another from a cheaper site was also "bad") is still sending 0.5v instead of 1.4v from connection #3 on the AMM.
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Traded 500rd of .22LR ammo to the lead mechanic at the Charleston WV Volvo dealership, and he troubleshooted it to one wire. It is a green wire, I believe, in the green book. Pin #5 on the AMM, and is connected at three points:
AMM
Relay ?#23?
ECU
Please take the numbering and nomenclature with a grain of salt. It has been about two weeks...
I have the relay and a spare ECU. The only problem is I have only removed the kickplate and all other necessary things on a dilapidated car, not a functioning one, so I am waiting for some spare time to do so, where I won't get frustrated and rip everything out of the way in a manner where it will not go back together nicely.
Any tips on how to get the fuse and relay panel to slide out if it is being picky?
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I will have to do that when time is available!
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Regarding that 231 Code, I'm confused because the 231 does NOT set the Check engine light.
I'm wondering which FI system you have too, because a Bosch O2 sensor will not play nice with the Regina FI system, causing rich running spasms I believe. That could cause a 212 code, which DOES set the CEL. Did you check for other codes when you found the 231? There can be up to three (3).
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Dear volbro245,
Hope you're well. Yes. Has the Idle Air Control Valve been cleaned recently? If it is dirty, it may stick, causing uneven idle. See the FAQs for the cleaning procedure. Be sure to keep the end (to which the hoses connect) pointed down-wards, to keep solvent from entering the motor compartment.
As has been suggested, the intake manifold gasket could have failed (cracked). Is the intake manifold gasket pale green or a deep red-orange? If the latter, it is factory-original and prone to crack. Even if the gasket has been replaced, that could have been so long ago, that the replacement is at the end of its service life. To check the intake manifold gasket, carefully spray starting fluid around the edges of the gasket, while the engine runs. If the engine's noise changes = because starting fluid is being sucked into the intake and burned - the gasket needs to be replaced.
Similarly, you should check the main air intake hose, between the AMM and the throttle body. If the hose is cracked, it will let "extra" (unmetered) air to be pulled into the engine.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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ok- here is what I have done- I removed the IAC- it was free, not really dirty. i put 12 v to the two terminal-it " clicks" - Not sure if that is correct? Should it spin? They talk about a motor? So if I hook up 12v what should it do?
I then re-connected. Started the car and measured 2.9v at the green terminal that hooks to the IAC? Is this the correct voltage? My systoms are code 231 and it has a pulsing idle after about 1 minute of running fine from cold. TB is clean, AMM new, O2 new.
Thanks in advance- aj
--
Current: 86 245, RIP: 1983 245 Turbo, 1984 245 Turbo
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The last couple of times I've had similar symptoms, it's always been the intake manifold gasket. On my '92 940 (now deceased) I pulled out of a parking garage onto a crowded Manhattan street, and it died suddenly, threw codes and I had to get it towed home. It would re-start, make it one block, and then stall out again. No indication when I started it up in the garage that this would happen. Closer inspection revealed a HUGE crack in the barely year-old intake gasket, at the 1st port. I must have just 'popped' suddenly.
The other day my '93 turbo suddenly started idling rough, it got progressively worse. No codes, but spraying starting fluid around the intake once again revealed a big leak at #1. These are often visually impossible to detect, but using the fluid works every time.
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WIll give that a try- im out of ideas.
--
Current: 86 245, RIP: 1983 245 Turbo, 1984 245 Turbo
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Spook- checked for leaks- still not finding any. But I did run another series of DTM tests. I ran the one where it activates components- so the fan, injectors all click as needed- but no click or motion on the IAC. Removed that, the "door" moves freely. I checked the resistance across the two terminals- 8.1 ohms ( ???).
I also did the TPS tests- that seems ok. So at this point Im down to IACV or air leak. Guess i better read more about IACV tests.I see a FAQ write up taking it apart-I dont think this one is serviciable- the crimps are pretty well done.
thanks in advance- AJ
--
Current: 86 245, RIP: 1983 245 Turbo, 1984 245 Turbo
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Hello,
I hope I could offer additional help here. Please check the large vacuum hose from the brake booster to the manifold. With heat and time this hose could harden causing leaks at the connections. Maybe its time for replacement.
Also please check the hose connecting the IAC to the intake manifold. This hose is hidden in-between the intake manifold and usually overlooked during maintenance. Tighten the connections.
Another remote possibility is the exhaust pipe gasket is leaking letting additional air into the system. Its a two-hole gasket secured by three bolts at the end of exhaust manifold before connecting to the front exhaust pipes. This is the most 'stressful' part of the exhaust system as most vibrations are transmitted here.
Please go to the address below for a photo of this part (labelled exhaust manifold to front pipe gasket)
http://www.vlvworld.com/indexframe.html?900/Section_2_11.htm
In my car I have been replacing this gasket about once in every two years until one exhaust repairman suggested to install a short flexible pipe just before the catalytic converter. In the original design this 'flex pipe' was not included. This is to isolate the exhaust vibrations from the front manifold end making it less stressful. So far its been almost 5 years since I've replaced the gasket.
Please go to the address below for a photo of this part.
http://www.p-wholesale.com/cn-pro/9/418to1/exhaust-flexible-pipe-2-394391.html
I hope this helps.
Amarin.
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