Hi All,
about three years (or 50k miles) ago I fixed a poor running problem by replacing the in-tank pump. At the time the sending unit looked OK and was reading so we left alone.

The gauge has gone out this week and I suspect that the expensive sending unit has gone.

Because I hate this job so much I don't want to return too soon...

So should I replace the in tank pump while I am at it? And if so, should I go with the delco pump from IPD ($59.00) or get the bargain "kit" from FCP Groton for $233. which includes a "Eurospare" pump as well as all the needed o rings etc.
for the job.

So, any feedback on this job would be appreciated (I have been memorizing Art's beautiful article on his web site) especially on the Eurospare pump.

Thanks in advance,

Rod

I would be sure that the problem is in the gas tank before I tackled that job.
Are you having any other problems with any of the gages or warning lights on the dash?
You could be having a problem with a bad solder joint on the instrument cluster.
That sure is a lot easier to fix if that is the problem.

hope this helps
steve

Hi Hill,
Yeah I would love it to be the gauge! But I am mentally preparing for the worst I guess.

Tomorrow I am going to do an oil change (it will be warm enough here) and check for bad grounds, broken wires weird things to deduce that it is in fact the sender unit. I am really worried about the choice of the pump.

Thanks,
Rod

if you have already replaced the pump then that is not a place to Worry.

figure out what's what with the guage

the unit...as is all fuel sending units of that past century work with resistance determined by a Float which slides up and down depending on fuel level...

As you know, having taken the unit out to replace the pump

They are two seperate operations.

Having had the velly velly thin wire on a unit snap...and wonder how I could just replace that wire so the float could ride it...........up down up down

Oh that was a BMW 2002

Volvo has a pivot. Float

http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm

check the wires ...don't sweat about the pump...you've alrady replaced it.

"...don't sweat about the pump...you've alrady replaced it. "

Yeah, that's what I thought too. Live and learn.

http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm

--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Sign on on the side of the electrician’s van – “Let Us Get Rid of Your Shorts”.

Hi All,
I have checked the in-tank pump--all is good (it was a Delco that I fitted last time). The fault lies at the top of the sending unit visible when you remove the metal cover to expose the hole in the tank the sending unit passes through.

The wire sending the signal to the gauge has completely corroded through. So with that in mind I will save for the part and usefully use my time to get mentally prepared--I don't like messing with gas tanks that much.

I learned to reset the trip meter every fill up when driving taxis years ago, and so apart from the constant irritation of the gas gauge not working I don't have a big fear of running out of gas. For some reason it troubles my wife quite a bit.

I will try and reply when I come back from staring into my tank at some point.

Thanks for all your very constructive comments
Rod

I picked up a sending unit/pump at the local picka part. With the $2 fee to get in, it cost me 25 minutes of time and $32.65 (with a 30 day warranty).

My 245 has 411,000 miles on it....so I figured I couldn't lose in picking up a unit from a vehicle with 170,000 miles on it. Pulled it out and it was a newer OEM replacement.

Replaced the original from mine and she is up and running again.

Check the local yards...might save you a bunch of $.

Chris

I would avoid the aftermarket sending unit. Spend the extra money on the OEM sender. Even with the OEM sender, be observant of the wiring. The last one of these I installed had TWO wiring problems. 1)The polarity for the pump was reversed at the pump connections, and 2)The pump and sender connections were reversed at the harness connector.
--
1966 122s, 1968 142s, 1969 144s, 1979 245dl, 1989 244gl

Hi Bud,
No I was planning on getting the VDO kit from FCP Groton, avoiding the cheaper part with lots of complaints.

Thanks,
Rod

I had a Dodge van that had no fuel gauge for 10 years. I just filled it up whenever I went to the gas station and knew that I was good for 350 miles (actually could have gone further but told the wife 350 to play it safe).

I would check the tank pump operation before opening the tank.

If you are unfamiliar with this test, here is a description of how to do that as offered by Bruce Y. who posts here as "lucid."

1) Remove fuse #4 (tank pump)
2) Apply +12V to the RIGHT (output) side of fuse #4
Get +12V from the LEFT (input) side of any fuse 6—10 (always "hot")
3) The tank pump should run immediately. Go back to the fill pipe and listen.

Early cars use fuses 5 & 7 for this but 4 & 6 is correct for '91. I would add, a healthy pump can usually be heard without going to the filler. But they may become quieter with age according to Art Benstein. And a full tank may tend to muffle the sound.

No operation during this test could still be just a bad ground. It is, oddly, the brown wire from the sending unit, not black as you might expect.

If you actually do have to replace the pump, the Delco is known to be superior quality. Your original post is the first time I have heard the name Eurospare so I can't really speak to that. But the "Brand X" tank pump that FCP and others sold within the last few years was definitely inferior. The one I bought lasted only a few weeks.

I have Airtex tank pumps in both of my current 240's and they have been reliable. Their main pumps get bad reviews here, though. Perhaps for that reason some people prefer to stay away from their tank pump.

If you buy the kit it will probably have the proper grade of hose. If you have to buy the hose it should be SAE 30R10, 5/16" ID x 2" long.

--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

"I have Airtex tank pumps in both of my current 240's and they have been reliable. Their main pumps get bad reviews here, though. Perhaps for that reason some people prefer to stay away from their tank pump. "

My thoughts exactly. The Airtex tank pumps I was getting for $27 are still working -- one over 3 years now -- which is delightful to me. I check them as part of the oil change routine now, just like you described as Bruce's test. The price seemed to rise after I bought them, but if you google "Airtex E8778" it looks like they are still not that bad.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

My resistance to post further in this thread has been overcome by
my capacitance to reason clearly.

I am lazy on that stinky proposition too!

Check the wiring for power/ground connections and resistance of the sender first.

Phil