I have achieved Volvo perfection; just got a 95 945T smoothtop. (no roofrack :-))
152k, has potential.

So I need some info that I don't have time atm to look up. If anyone happens to know that'd be great.
1. Fuel pump/sender. This is the single intank. The pump is the same as some 960's apparently, is the sender also? The gauge is off and I think this will be as sender issue, as it was on another 95 I had briefly and never addressed.

2. Turbo; this car has no boost gauge, and I think I recall that this has a 'low pressure' turbo setup, which may consist of an adjustment on the wastegate arm?

3. Headlight switch; On, on, or on. Those are the choices on the knob. Left position leaves low beams on and allows flashing the highs.
I hate this, and recall that there's a way to restore 'correct' switch behavior but don't recall what that is.

4. Driver's power seat is stuck on the inside track but the outside moves. First place to look?

Any other quirks to the 95?

First, check out the two short coolant hoses going to the turbo. I think one of my photos is in the FAQ. Give these a 5 to 8 year life span with the must use Volvo hoses. I looked at a non running 1995 Volvo 945 and found out one of the turbo coolant blew. The wife attempted to drive the car the last half mile home but the engine seized.

Second, congratulations, it sounds very nice.

Wait a minute, MY Gothenburg, dog car, crap hauler, tow hitched, 1995 945, since 2001 is true perfection!

White, handy in the mid south.
No roof rack other than an occasional Thule rack.
No winter package, not needed too often here.
No alarm system but thinking about getting a blinking red light. Or does everyone have these now.
No automatic door locks.
No sun roof.
No Power seats.
No nothing.
Gray cloth.
No turbo, not that anything is wrong with it.
Front speaker grills, still on tight.
No map pocket cracks. (Try to beat that one!)

Mods:
Hydra wheels.
Tinted windows.


Flaws:
Right rear quarter had ding by the PO’s, PO. No clear coat and noticeable of your looking for it.
A little wear on the back seats by the PO's dogs.

I so believe in DRL but I have decided to try to find a headlight switch that will turn off the lights, probably freeway driving in light traffic only.

Edit, it looks like you fixed it. For the stuck seat, if no one has mentioned, the plastic tube(s) will stretch and the twisty gear end will not engage. There may be a write-up in the FAQ by John Sargent or you will find it in a search from J.S. I had the seat out but did not have the fix instruction at the time. The seat is heavy.

Good luck, Tom

Thanks for that.
Hoses, my bud did them but non-Volvo. Oh well, do them again in a few years if I keep the car.

Map pocket; got better door cards with no separation. But for fixing cracks or preventing them, I was thinking of supergluing on the inside some very thin sheet metal as reinforcement.

DRL; I keep the lights on in all my cars all the time, but want to turn them off if I choose.

Seat; it does not move at all on the one side in either direction, and there's nothing in the rail. I took apart one at the JY, and I think I know what you're referring to about the plastic enclosed 'drive shaft' from the motor. I'll keep that in mind, look for his writeup.

Hey Jerry, sounds nice. Even better if it's red... but I'm obviously biased...

My 1995 (manufactured in Halifax)had the same headlight issue. I only just fixed it last year. The fix (as Spook politely says) is to replace it with a normal switch. pretty cheap from Tasca (was under $20). If you've got cloth seats, you might be more likely to have a Halifax car

My 1995 (NA) came with a dead sender. There's a lot of information in the FAQ about it (including my first-ever FAQ write-up). For me, it turned out to be bad solder joints for the resistor wires at the top the sender unit (inside the tank).

I've had mine out x3 times now. You get used to it. Check it with a 48-ohm resistor as described in the FAQ.

The dealer instructions seem to be the same for a 960 and 940.


I "third" the coin-in-your-seat track. Been there. Man, it was annoying.

The *BAD* thing about 1995 is the door panels. If yours are intact, you are very lucky. In that year Volvo used a bad glue and the panels often delaminate.

My discovery of a 93 960 with the same color interior (and your help with the lower foglights) is what kicked of my V940 Resto-Mod.

I really like the 95 NA as it goes back to Bosch (vs. rex-Regina). Turbos always had Bosch so you are good there.


Show a pic of this beauty when you get a chance.

Picked up good pass side covers and cushions, and door panels, from a 91 940SE. I think the panels will fit even though it's a sedan.

I did find a way to get the seat out even though it was in the back position with no access to the bolts. My method to remove the bottom did not work as there was a spiffy fabric bit at the rear bottom of the seat so someone in the back didn't get the tips of their shoes scuffed up under the seat, which all my other cars have not had. That made access to the clip that holds the thin flexy bar, which would have allowed the rear of the seat cushion to come out, not practical.

I got the front of the seat loose and used a friend's drill battery to supply power to the plug from the motor, that goes to the switches in the side of the seat. There are 3 motors under the seat. The center one is the fore/aft one, with two drives coming out of it for each side. This plug is under the seat and close to the motor, so lifting the cushion and cutting the foam support allowed access. Accessing the plug from car to switches, that's under/in front of seat, did not work.
Touched the wires and the seat moved quickly and immediately. :-)
Two cushions and covers, $20

hello
the FAQ says 68 ohm resistor 1/2 watt.
i had to double check as i have a pack of them right in front of me.
one day soon i will try them out.
Mike

You're right. I tried 48 (and it didn't do squat for some reason...), my faulty recollection, I guess.

Thanks! I'll check the sender.
Light switch; hmm, I have leather seats, will look into the screw tip and see if another older one works.
Door panels; yes they are bad. I just found a 940 SE with all good panels so may swap those in.

Don't know if this applies to your headlight sw. but worth a shot. I have seen 900-series switches with a tiny "switch" in the lower right corner of the headlight switch's panel which can be turned with an equally tiny blade-type screwdriver. IIRC, turning it 90deg. clockwise returns the switch's ability to turn off the headlights; ie: it kills the always-on daytime running light feature.

This type of headlight switch was available on some USA market cars...don't know about 1995's. The Canadian market cars had a different switch with no delete feature, since DRL's are mandated by the federal vehicle code here, and have been for 20+ years.

I got a turbo-tach of unknown year on eBay many years ago and put it in the 1994 940. Worked fine. I used the "turbo" gauge to monitor cooling system pressure, in lieu of a coolant level switch in the reservoir. I found another turbo-tach in the PnP a while back - it's in a box somewhere in my catastrophic garage. They mount into the cluster such that their screws make contact with the printed circuit traces to activate the tach. So perhaps even if the cluster had different harness connector plugs, any 940 tach (or late 760 turbo with that same style of cluster?) might work.
--
Bob: Son's XC70, daughter's 940, my 81 and 83 240's, 89 745 (V8) and S90. Also '77 MGB and some old motorcycles

I"ll check for that little switch. Thanks!

Dear jerryc,

Hope you're well. Best wishes on your "new" car! Volvo VADIS - the now-superseded dealer parts/service database - shows that fuel pump is the same as that used in '95 and later 960s and S/V90s. However, VADIS assigns different part numbers to the complete in-tank unit: for a '95 940 Turbo, the part is #9180932; for a 95 960, the part is #9180931. From the parts diagrams, the difference is not obvious.

As to the boost gauge, VADIS shows two tachometers for the '95 940, one with a boost gauge (Part #9434150) and one without a boost gauge (Part #9434159). From this I infer that a tach with a boost gauge can be installed. If you remove the cluster, you may find the hose - that goes to the in-tachometer boost gauge - is present, but plugged. If so, then it will be easy to install a tach with a boost gauge. If the hose is not present, I'm not sure how to retrofit it, as I do not operate cars with turbos. You'll recall that a tach must come from a '95 940, as Volvo changed the connector gender starting with the '95 model year.

As to headlight switch, I believe your car it set-up to meet Canadian specifications. VADIS shows a headlight switch (for '94 and '95 940s) that is Canada-specific (#3515978). For US models, the headlight switch is #1362699. The Canada-model switch is far more costly than is the switch for the US model, so I'd see if someone north of the border wants the switch. You can get a US-spec. switch at a dealer or at a salvage yard.

The inside track on the driver's seat could be jammed by a coin or other FOD (Foreign Object/Debris). You'll need to remove the seat, to clear the FOD. While the seat is out of the car, lube the tracks, etc.

It is also possible, that the squared-end of the seat drive cable has become slightly rounded, and so no longer enagages the seat drive sprocket. I cured this by soldering a short section (3/16") of a finishing nail, to the end of the cable that goes into a recess at the seat motor's "nose". There are three seat motors. I think this repair is detailed in the FAQs. That 3/16" extension pushes the cable further into the seat track drive sprocket, and so restores proper function.

DEATH DANGER WARNING: Before trying to remove the driver's seat, remove the negative battery cable clamp from the battery terminal, and put the clamp in a plastic bag, to isolate it. This cuts power supply to the SRS (Airbag) System. Wait at least 15 minutes, for the system to de-energize completely. The airbag sensor is under the driver's seat, affixed to the floor pan. If this sensor is banged - e.g., if you drop the seat on it, or drop a tool on it - the airbag could deploy. This can be lethal, at close quarters. It will also be costly: a new sensor is about $1,200. A new airbag is about the same.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Boost gauge; thanks. I have never seen a 95 with a gauge but will keep looking.
Any info on the actual boost? reduced levels?

Seat; good tips. I don't think there's anything in the track but will check more closely.

Lights; hmm, all the 95's I've seen have this switch. Will an earlier one work?

That's a sweet ride, The zenith of the Red Blocks IMHO. I recently replaced the in tank pump on my 95. Same sender, see post for details(Spook et al had excellent input). Does yours have the "ambient temp sensor"(outside temp) in the lower left of the cluster? Nice feature. I know nada about the Turbo but I've got 10$ that says there is a dime stuck in the track of the seat..LOLOL. Enjoy the new ride!

I'll check that post.
Yes it has the temp readout, and it seems to be within 10-15 deg of actual!
I hope it is something in the track, but...