So... I'm doing the weekend timing belt - cooling system/water pump- accessory bushing replacement project this weekend ...except I ran out of weekend!

I am slow, meticulous, and cautious. Every thing has gone smoothly so far except for pressing in the new poly bushing into the wrong side of the alternator adjustment bracket! (time consuming correction!) The GMP water pump that I ordered from IPD came in a sealed plasic bag along with the engine block gasket and mounting hardware. I thought that was great until I removed the old one and realized there is a "gromet" type gasket on the top of the pump, where it meets the engine and another "ring" type gasket one the heater hose pipe. Neither of these gaskets were included with the pump. Are these to gaskets a "common" part I can pick up at my local parts store or Volvo dealership? (I haven't been impressed with my "friendly" local Volvo dealer's parts inventory pertaining to the 240 lately - believe it or not it's worse than the SAAB dealer for the same vintage car!) I have know idea how old the old gaskets are. Maybe they can be re-used, perhaps with the aid of some pematex sealant? Seems like good time to replace and be assuered of a good seal.

Another question... When I started removing coolant hoses, heater hoses and WP, I found quite a bit of corrosion in the system. Yes, it's been more than two years.. maybe more like eight or more(?) I flushed the system with one of those grarden hose connector kits, and actually connected it several different ways to flush out different parts of the system, but it still seems like there is potentially flaky-crusty stuff inside all of those pipes, ports, and chambers. At this point I am consiering using one of those Prestone flush products, where you drive it for several days before draining and finally replacing coolant. Any thoughts?

I now have all of the seals and gaskets, but just noticing that the old (possibly original)WP had a rectangular shaped plastic plug covering some kind of "port" on the underside. The "port" is like a short nipple projecting out. The new pump has a small hole in the same spot, with no nipple, plug or cover. Is this normal? What is the opening for and it it supposed to hafe a cover

Also, the new pump did not come with the studs to mount the pulley. I guess I need to remove the studs from the old pump or is this a separate "parts" item I should have ordered?

If you are speaking of the "vent" or "weep hole" in the area of the pump between the flange and the main body of the pump--this is normal.
The studs need to be transferred from the old pump - use two nuts locked together to remove and install.
Use a tiny amount of slow curing sealant on the gasket (I use the orange or red silicone applied VERY sparingly) to hold the gasket to the pump. I use wheel bearing grease (again, sparingl) on the "mushroom" and pipe "O" ring to allow everything a bit of "slide" movement.
Slide the pump into place and start the nuts on the studs and whichever bolts will start. Use the bottom most mounting hole to insert a phillips screwdriver or other strong shaft to lift the pump straight up to start any bolts not quite lined up and after running them in till close but not tight use the lever to lift the pump so the "mushroom" seal will squash--and while holding it up -- tighten all the nuts/bolts--then add the bottom bolt. -- Dave

Thanks! Yeah, I thought removing the studs was going to be an ordeal. The nuts have those flanges on them and when the two are together, the wrench is to fat to fit. It turns out once the two were placed together, hand tightened, I could then loosen the whole stud by hand.

I do wish I had your pump mounting description before I mounted the pump! It is essentially what I ended up doing through a combination of trial and error and re-rethinking the process. Your description is right on and makes perfect sense! My only concern now is that the flattened mushroom seal seems to stick out ever-so-slightly more on one side than the others. I think it's ok... but will not know for sure unless I remove it again now or watch for a leak later!

Seeing a bit of the mushroom is ok.
I sometimes use regular nuts on the studs if I have them available--but otherwise I turn one original backwards so the built in washers are face to face.
Fill the cooling system before you mount the fan and shroud--if it has to come apart you wont have wasted additional time. -- Dave

"The GMP [GMB?] water pump that I ordered from IPD came in a sealed plasic bag along with the engine block gasket and mounting hardware. I thought that was great until I removed the old one and realized there is a "gromet" type gasket on the top of the pump, where it meets the engine and another "ring" type gasket one the heater hose pipe. Neither of these gaskets were included with the pump".

The IPD Website implies that you shoulda got 'em....


--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

seconding this observation
And when you install the w/p be sure to put the rubber band gasket on the pipe then push it into the w/p housing not the other way round (that way you can't miss and score the seal causing a leak)
The AZ, and O'Reilly kits I have bought locally have both ports, as does Power South Bay Volvo, if you live in the greater LosAngeles area. They have a good stock of various miscellaneous 240 parts.
Paul

""""The GMP water pump that I ordered from IPD came in a sealed plasic bag along with the engine block gasket and mounting hardware. I thought that was great until I removed the old one and realized there is a "gromet" type gasket on the top of the pump, where it meets the engine and another "ring" type gasket one the heater hose pipe."""""


The complete water pump should include all the seals and the block gasket.

Call IPD and they sold you an incomplete Water Pump....I've never bought a pump that did not include everything that was needed.

Plus they should ship it FREE of Charge because they screwed up your install.

Yep. I called IPD and the parts are in the mail!

I have bought three that did not include the rubber band gasket for the hard pipe. Besides, like many rubber parts, the Volvo seals are better than most the aftermarket ones especially their mushroom seal.

that being said, the picture on IPD's website does show all three required gaskets for the GMB.

Both of the gaskets you describe (sometimes known as the mushroom seal and the rubber band gasket) are part of a water pump gasket kit from a few online retailers and available at Volvo dealers. They also are the most problematic.

The mushroom seal really should not be re-used unless only as a temporary measure and assuming you can get it aligned on the new pump the way it was on the old.

The rubber band seal can probably be re-used if it is good shape. It is easily removed without removing anything else if it starts to leak later.

At this point I can pull and replace a water pump in about 45 minutes, on the side of the instate with only about 4 tools. Hope you never get that good. No water-pump puller/press required (Saab reference intended).

Most of the same online retailers for you Saab parts are pretty good for Volvo (FCP Groton, Eeuroparts, etc) but there are also a few online Volvo Dealers that are great for parts with Borton and Tasca. Odds are, you local dealer will not stock many 240 parts.

As a note, please include the year with all your posts and the transmission type any time there might be even the slightest reason to know it. How difficult the water pump replacement is does vary from 1975 to 1993, turbo to non-turbo to V6. There have been 6 engines offered in the US and 4 (or is a it 5?) different transmissions.