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1991 240 Sedan New to me, little issue 200 1991

posted by  scottalot on  Sat Mar 23 17:45 CST 2013
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last visit: Sun May 19 13:54 CST 2013
[RELATED]

First and foremost - Hi all, I'm new here and to the Volvo world. I recently p/up a 1991 240 Sedan for my daily ride. I had a big fulll size truck that got terrible gas milege and just had to go.

The Volvo has 170k miles on it and runs well, esp. once warmed up.. Its a little fussy when its first started. Idle is a little weak at start up and I believe it has some piston slap, mainly while cold. The slap seems to either go away completely or is un-noticable once warmed up.

The car has new wires cap and rotor per the previous owner. I changed the oil yesterday as it was pretty nasty. I put ethanol regular unleaded in it when I forst bought it (about a wk. ago). I ran that out and filled up with premium non-ethanol yesterday and the slap is much quieter now :)

I'm wondering what the guru's here suggest I do next in terms of maint.? I would also like to know if there is anything I can do to help the cold idle a little better. It doesn't stall, I don't have to hit the gas to keep it going, but feel its a little low in the rpms at start-up. I was told the TB was recently cleaned as well. The car runs great once warmed up and has plenty of pep.

Other issue, it seems I get an intermittent electrical issue. About one in five starts I have no radio, wipers, or wiper fluid. I'm not sure if this reladed to the 'old style' fuse box/fuses or something else.. I don't think its a worn wire related issue, seems more like a fuse.. I have yet to pull and rotate fuses as I have read about doing. Does anyone reccomend using dielectric grease on the fuses?

Sorry for the long post..








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    posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

    Congrats to you for picking a nice car....I have one too!


    The car may one or two items changed to help the cold idle speed. Cleaning the throttle body is only the first step.

    A Fuel Pressure Regulator or a Idle Air Control valve. These two items cause this problem or other problems related to them sooner or later on Volvo's.

    The IAC is the first choice since the car runs well when warm.

    I need to ask if the cars RPM's revs up when first started to about 1200 and then idles at the required 750 when the engine is up to operating temperature. It should do at all times but this operation helps narrow things down. It needs to demonstrate it has the capability to control the idle speed.

    The FPR has to be changed out or you have to read the pressure with a gauge. If the pressure is low the engine may run lean when cold but will smooth out once the combustion temperatures come up. Most importantly the spray from the injectors is not a complete conical pattern.

    This is not a total answer though.

    If the pressure is too high it will run rich and the as the temperature rise it can burn off the excess gas and run better. All in all keep a good spare available when suspicious.

    If your mileage gets lower or power hesitates and your ignition/timing system is up to snuff, give it some thought.

    Phil



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      posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]


      Hi Phil, thanks for the speedy response.
      Answer to you question; The RPM does rev up when first started and then die back down. I do not know the exact # of RPM's as there is no Tach in this car. Kinda weird, but doesn't bother me. I guess being automatic Volvo didn't see it as being important..
      Are there any tests to perform on the IAC or is that more of a replace it when in doubt part?
      I'm in hopes that a flow test can be performed on the FPR to see where I stand with that. I can see I need to get a Haynes/Bently manual on order before to long.. ALthough, in my past expierences those manuals don't contain all of the good tricks of the trade that you find elsewhere, i.e. here :)

      I will say, that although the idle at startup is weak, the car really runs great once warmed up and is a very smoothe ride going down the street. Once warm, if sitting in traffic it gets a little hicup every now and then where the idle drops a little and then pulls back up. I was thinking a Vaccumm leak, thus I'm intrigued by the mention of the IAC part.. Hmmmmmm..... Anyway, the car (loud thump on wood inserted here) hasn't shut off on me so far.. No issues with having to re-start it when cold or when in traffic and no pumping of the Gas :)



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        posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

        The IAC valve should be cleaned and tested with 12 volts, if it is working and clean there is no need t replace it.

        Check for engine codes on the OBD module, see FAQ's.

        Dan



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          posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

          Will do I'll get to checking. Thanks for the tips.
          I am new here and somehow missed this reply.. Would've been looking at the above mentioned much sooner..



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