I am going to do the timing belt on my 1991 240. IPD wants $55 + shipping. Does anyone know of another source for the tool or have one for sale. Anyone have one in the Seattle area.

Thanks
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1983 242 GLT / 1991 244 / 1993 245 / 1999 v70

Going against the general thoughts here, but I always use my impact gun to get crank pulleys off . . . I've changed belts on probably 10 different Volvos that way. Even if you don't have an air compressor, you can buy a cheap Harbor Freight electric impact wrench for $50 . . . cheaper than the counterhold tool!

Just my opinion.

Nate

To be completely honest, I use a impact wrench to remove the pulley.
Then I use the rope trick to re-install the pulley.

There is no way to damage the crankshaft when using a impact wrench to remove the pulley bolt....unless you try to turn it the wrong way.

Re-torquing the bolt is another matter.
With the torque specs that Volvo gives for the front bolt on a B-230 engine, that sucker is really, really tight.

I used to use a impact wrench to re-install the bolt but trying to nail the exact torque is impossible with a impact wrench, and I always used to get really nervous when tightening with the impact using that kind of force.

Using the "rope trick", I am able to tighten the the bolt to factory spec. and not worry about something going "tink" (sound of metal fracturing).

I used to be opposed to the "rope trick" for fear that I might damage the piston or valves, but after using it a few times, I got more and more comfortable, especially after reading all of the positive reports by others.
After seeing how easy it is to do, I became a supporter.

Just my opinion
steve

1 - Remove all plugs and rotate the crank (CW) so #1 piston is at TDC (Top Dead Center) on the Compression stroke.
2 - Look thru oil fill hole to verify #1 and #2 valves closed. The cam lobes will be pointing away from each other, with #1 pointing to the left and raised maybe 25° from engine horizontal line.
3 - Rotate crank about 60° CW past TDC to make room for rope in cylinder.
4 - Stuff some clothesline (2 to 3 feet is plenty) into # 1 plug hole, leaving 6" outside (feeding the rope in thru a short length of heater hose makes the job even quicker).
5 - Rotate the crank backwards (CCW) until the packed rope stops further rotation.
6 - Use socket, breaker bar, and pipe extension to loosen pulley bolt. Then use pulley to rotate crank a few degrees CW by hand to free rope for removal.
7 - Tighten bolt the same way, but start with crank about 60° before #1 TDC Comp.
8 - When tightened to spec, back the crank up a little to free and remove the rope.

To my knowledge, this is the only "trick" holding tool alternative that allows tightening the bolt to book spec of 44 lb ft, then an additional 60° (B230),
or 122 ft lbs. for B21/23.

Here's what some first-time users had to say:

• "The "rope trick" for holding the engine still while removing the harmonic balancer bolt worked like a charm. Honestly, I doubted that it would, but WOW!"
• "I finally had an opportunity today to use one of the "rope" tricks to help take off the crank bolt. All I can say is - it worked like a charm! Two seconds and I had the crank bolt off..."
* 5/29/05 "I did this a few weeks ago exactly as ... described and it couldn't have been easier."
• 12/28/05"....the rope trick worked like a charm to loosen and tighten the crank pulley bolt!!,"
• 1-10-06 "tryed the . . . method without any luck but the rope trick worked fine to remove the pully bolt"
• 6-26-06 "(thanks for the rope trick! Worked like a charm.)"
• "i just completed the task using the rope trick and my opinion is that it is extremely gentle as compared to jamming a screw driver anywhere. it required about 5 to 6 ft. of 1/4 inch rope and made mission impossible mission simple."
• 4-25-07 at http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1178645.
• 7-7-08 at "Rope Trick Rocks".
• 7-20-08 "was amazed at how easily it worked" .
These just in, Jan, 2009:
• guillermo.
• sonoflee.
• N7SC
• 1-31-09
• 2-03-09
• 2-22-10
• 5-31-10
• 6-1-10
• 7-31-10It worked like a charm!

I don't keep track any more. It works.


--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

If Lucid doesn't stop by, look up "rope trick". It's cheaper and works.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.

Like a lot of people, I was skeptical about using the "rope trick.

That was until I used it on a timing belt change.

It's so simple to do and works so great I was sold the first time.

Just make sure that the piston (#1 piston) is approaching TDC on it's compression stroke.....not it's exhaust stroke.

steve

kittysgreyvolvo will tell you, you will damage your engine. Rope trick..I have used it on volvos, mazdas, dodges, oldsmobiles and never an issue.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

Uncle sedan delivery,

Buy the real counter hold tool for Volvo 240 with the B230 and the harmonic balancer crankshaft pulley from SPX Tools. Volvo PN 9995284. SPX is the vendor for Volvo OEM tools and the tool is made in Hungary (at least mine is). I think a heavy aluminum alloy and not the cheap stamped plate steep you may see from some aftermarket vendors.

http://www.otctools.com/products/catalog.php

volvocars.spx.com

Will you also perform a replacement of the three front engine oil seals? You'd need the counter hold tool for both the upper two camshaft pulleys (can double as the crank counter hold on all prior 240 engine B20/21/23/19 cranks before the B230 and other low friction 4 bangers), and you need the two seal presses to install the Volvo OEM grey Viton seals.

I can find the PNs someplace, or others can inform you to support your immediate service plan.

Good luck on the t-belt replacement. Continental is best in the after market as it is the OEM vendor, I think. T-belt every 50k, and the tensioner pulley ever 2nd t-belt, you know.

cheers,

Volvo "Buttermilk Run" MacDuff
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Holy Moly! We're running low on buttermilk! Time for a buttermilk run!