Hello All:

1967 Volvo 122S wagon. Wendy went out to the car on Thursday morning - the mildest of the last two months, temperature-wise - and the car would barely turn over. She opened the hood and despite the key being in her hand, the engine was still slowly turning over.

I came home that night, threw the pile on the trickle charger for a few minutes and it started right up. I figured she was crazy. She is, but that is another story.

I drove it around for several hours on Thursday night, making several 30-40 minutes stops and had no issue. When I tried to start it this morning - same issue.

I checked the Search on this site and saw that it could be worn wire harnessing, a short, 'heavy key ring' or a bad solenoid return spring. Any suggestions about how to check for each of these possibilities? I have never removed a starter motor before. Is that complicated? Anything I should know in advance?

As an aside, I just received the starter button upgrade from Ron Kwas. Any idea how happy I am that I did not install it yet? It would have made me crazy trying to figure out what I did wrong with the installation. We had a key break off last week and it was hell getting it out. Any chance that Ron's kit might eliminate the ignition switch from the list of suspects?

Cheers,

Pooch

Maybe if you hot wired the engine to start you could eliminate some of the variables.
Please tell me if I'm wrong.

This might not work on a 122 if it has the armoured cable still in place. But generally a jumper is run from the battery positive to the + terminal of the coil-a temporary coil could be fitted to accomplish this and would eliminate more variables, then "short" the battery terminal of the starter to wire on the solenoid (when I was much, much younger this was accomplished with a screwdriver! (lots of sparks, melted threads and generally a low born but exciting alternative to a key). The engine should turn and start. There are much better ways of course. In my early Fords the solenoid was mounted on an inner fender and was equipped with a push button that could be used to turn the engine over from the engine compartment. Any length of wire with a switch in it would act the same.

If the engine still persists on spinning even after you disconnect the coil to battery wire then I'd say the problem lies in the starter. If not the switch or the wiring harness.

Matt's comments are (as usual) very good.
One other possibility might be that the starter contacts in your ignition switch are
fragmenting or sticking, however disconnecting the small wire from the solenoid should
show if that is the problem.
Although a 122 will usually work very well with a surprisingly weak battery, sometimes
they will do some pretty strange stuff! Therefore a good charge is always good.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma

Another question. Can you pull the key out of the ignition when it's in the start position?

Should NOT be able to remove key in start position! ONLY in OFF position.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma

no... unless the lock cyl and/or key is wickedly worn out.

Which is a possibility, but the unlikeliness of that is what led us to say that either the solenoid is sticking, or it's getting power when it's not supposed to be.

In proper condition, key can only be removed when in the complete off position.

--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂

Hello All:

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.

I decided to put my curious scientific mind aside and make yet another change to the dynamic by installing the push-button starter kit from SWEM.

Let me say that if you have not done this already, do it. I wish everything in life was this affordable, clearly documented and satisfying.

After installing it the problem SEEMS to have gone away - knock on wood and all that. We broke a couple keys in that ignition so I think that could have had something to do with the issue. Not sure if these things are related but the car has now started for four straight days without issue or needing a charge so I have my fingers crossed.

I loved the story about the push-button solenoid start on the old Ford. Cool idea if you are still required to have a key to make it run.

If the trouble returns I will try the jump start suggestion.

Cheers,

Pooch

It would be nice if you could get it to happen again...

While it's 'slowly turning over' of its own accord, open the hood and pull the small wire off the solenoid. It should just be a spade clip. (small wire powers solenoid, biggie wire powers starter which, of course, is switched on by the solenoid).

If you pull that wire, does it stop turning over? If so, chase said wire to the ignition switch to make sure it's not making contact with any other 'hot' wires along the way. Most likely places are at the starter (most likely, check for frayed wires, a dropped penny or washer, etc), or at the back of the ignition switch, in that order. (this is the wire that will eventually go to your new starter button)

If it doesn't stop turning over, I'd suspect a sticking solenoid.

I seem to recall having the same issue, when the battery was very low. Why a low battery might cause that, I can't say. Perhaps the starter gets locked into the ring gear on the flywheel, and since the car isn't starting or even firing, the gear stays engaged, therefore, solenoid doesn't kick back, and it keeps providing power to the starter. When the battery is good, the car starts up (or even fires), and there's enough action between the gears that their disengagement is easy. Just a guess, and I'd call that a sticky solenoid anyhow.






--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂