Some filters have more surface area than others. Some can filter finer particles. However, it is worth knowing (or trying to find out) how useful that really is in your average passenger car. After a certain point you are throwing money away.

One think that I feel is essential in an oil filter is the anti-drain back valve. This will lessen valvetrain wear on cold starts. Any filter that has this feature is most likely just fine assuming that it is of the proper size. I have used Wixx, Puralator, Mann and NAPA Gold filters and cannot tell the difference between them. After 3,000 miles the oil looks the same in my cars regardless of filter used.

This is ancient history trivia with no relevance to the current conversation, but the OEM filter on my 1975 BMW motorcycle was a Purolator.


Mann cost $5.22 at Autohaus with no sales tax and free shipping for all orders over $50. With several old cars in the driveway, you ALWAYS need $50 worth of parts, right?

With offshore competition and the management mentality that one must show a good bottom line every month, it's a crap shoot as to whether the filter that looked so good on tests a couple of years ago is still the same today, or has been outsourced to a place with cheap labour and slack quality standards.

So you don't really know if Purolator or Wix or whatever are still as good. They all surely meet some kind of standard, so it's not a big risk. I use the Mann because they are either made in Germany, or in Argentina under supervision of the mother company, and are still the same as you get at the Volvo dealer's parts counter. It's hard to go wrong with OEM.

At one time we had 5 cars in the driveway that would take the W-917 (3 Volvos, my MGB and a Dodge Caravan) so I bought a couple of flats from FCP when they were $35 for 10 and free shipping, and still have a few years' worth squirreled away.

A good anti-drainback valve is important. Look at the angle the filter sits on the 240...it can empty out maybe 2/3 of its contents over time if the valve leaks.
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Bob: Son's XC70, daughter's 940, my 81 and 83 240's, 89 745 (V8) and S90. Also '77 MGB and some old motorcycles

I ran a Bosch 3402 filter that was part of a synthetic oil change special at Autozone with no problem and the oil pressure light stayed on just as long as it does with the Mann filter I currently run (which is a split second on a cold start). If the special is still alive, its a good filter with a solid anti-drain back valve. I did change it to a Mann after about 3,000 miles as it was the first time I ran synthetic in the engine and the FAQs recommend an early change.

www.bobistheoilguy.com has all you could ever want to know about filters. Apparently Bosch, Pureolator, and some Mann filters may be made in the same factory?

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1593587

Mann (Volvo OEM) is supposed to be the best. So I try and use them. If you plan on keeping the car for a long time, you might consider buying a case of 10 from FCP Groton/Euro for $42 with free shipping.

http://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/244/Engine-Filters/?keywords=oil filter

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95 855 GLT Sportwagon 218k, 90 244 DL 300k - after 11 years has a new home

I may get some crap for this here, but I'll use STP Filters in a pinch. STP bought out Deutsch which were a pretty good German brand, and yes they have the Anti-drain back valve and by-pass valve, are available at any Autozone for like, $4.99... They've always done me good in a pinch..

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/STP-Oil-Filter/1990-Volvo-240DL/_/N-ih0z1Z8gcsg?itemIdentifier=7811_0_0_

These sell for $4.30 a piece from Rockauto, fast shipping too.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2265190&cc=1287952

I don't have a strong opinion about filters as I think they all work about the same and I've never noticed any negative about a filter that doesn't have an anti drain back valve. One thing of importance to me especially on 240 bricks is the ease of filter removal and installation. If it's hard to handle you will always be dripping oil all over the motor mount and down your arm partly because you need a filter wrench of either kind. This last change I used a motorcraft filter which is a slightly narrower diameter with nice finger grips. I twisted that on nice an tight without a tool and that makes it quick, easy and neat. that and synthetic oil every 5k miles (plus an extra 1/2 quart overfill) ... end of story.