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Body panel sources 200 1985

Hi all,

I noticed my passenger side mud flap sagging and decided to investigate. A few moments later I had the mud flap removed and in my hand. It looks like some time ago, there was a rust issue in the spare tire well and some one patched it with fiberglass on the inside and used some epoxy or some other compound to glue the mud flap back on. This was all underneath black paint, which is why it went unnoticed until now.

Now i have a golf ball-sized hole in my passenger spare tire well.

Driving on the salty roads of Utah I know this and other minor rust spots will need attention soon.

Has anyone had luck with body shops fixing minor issues like these? I wouldn't feel confident welding metal that thin, probably why they used fiber glass to fix it. Perhaps I would be better off repairing and painting the whole thing instead of doing small areas at a time.

I've looked at Scandcar's website which has a bunch of body panels. Anyone had any luck with them?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

---85' 245, 241,000 miles---








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    Body panel sources 200 1985

    you may also want to check out fixmyrust.com








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      Body panel sources 200 1985

      Thanks for all the responses, lots of good info here.

      I checked out the fixmyrust.com website. I can get a tire well for 36 and change.

      http://www.fixmyrust.com/Item/1975-1993_Volvo_240_Spare_Tire_Well_Passenger_Side.html

      Might be a good choice, taking the old one out will be interesting.








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    No idea but.... 200 1985

    I got rid of all the loose stuff and cut some of the thinner bits off. I cleaned all the rust I could off and coated it with POR. Cleaning the undercoating off was worse then the rust. Used a tin paint thinner can and screwed it in place on the inside. On the underside I coated the hole with fiberglass and used some PL Polyurethane on the inside. The nice coating of red started to flake off the PL Poly and with 20-20 hindsight I should have used fiberglass there too. The underside got a matching finish with 3M undercoating.

    You can by all means fit or cover the hole with sheet metal and weld it on but to have a body shop repair a non-visible area may be overkill unless the car is show room like. A muffler shop has good thin-metal-welders for non-visible areas and you can finish it off. I was lucky that the mud flap mounting was not compromised.

    Tom

    Sleeping Rust, Shhh!









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      No idea but.... 200 1985

      Tom,

      Where exactly did you use the polyurethane? Around your tin can patch?

      Is this the type of polyurethane your were talking about?:

      http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_seal_dws/overview/Loctite-PL-S40-Polyurethane-Window-Door-and-Siding-Sealant.htm

      I checked the other mud flap and I can't tell how it is attached. It almost looks like it is tack welded to
      the outside of the spare tire well.

      How did you remove the undercoating?

      Chase








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        No idea but.... 200 1985

        Please, lets call it a metal patch, not a tin can patch.

        I used the stuff below but it did not say Locktite and whoever makes it bought the license to use the Locktite name.

        Some boat builders are touting that its water proof. I use it on many outdoor projects, example, as a sealant on water barrel faucets. But like I said, the inside red paint flaked off the stuff.

        If you go with a metal patch, weld or screw on, use fiberglass outside and inside as a minimum. If I were to do it again I would use POR 15 epoxy putty The one pound pack would have been enough. Apply when warm--see the floor patch link by Swedish Baklava.

        Undercoating removal, I got medieval on it and used sharp but cheep wood chisels and a rotary wire brush then cleaned off the film with solvent.

        The mud flap is indeed screwed onto the car with easy access screws. The attachment will be well hidden by road crud.

        Add edit: In the 244, maybe the same as the 245, the rust out was where three pieces of body joined and was sealed with a white bondo like material. This bondo joining could not have been of any structural importance therefore I believe any water proof patch would work and not diminish the integrity.


        Tom

        re: 87 245 auto - welding rusty floor spots


        http://www.homedepot.com/buy/loctite-pl-premium-10-fl-oz-polyurethane-construction-adhesive-1390595.html#.URl9PfJhjO8

        http://www.por15.com/EPOXY-PUTTY/productinfo/PU/








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    Body panel sources 200 1985

    I have had good luck talking to small repair shops, Mom & Pop type, local. Show them the problem and ask about cutting out the bad spot and welding some real steel to the area. Let them know that you will primer and paint it black to match. Also, have the mud flap in hand.

    I thought the mud flap was on a bracket?
    --
    My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic








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      Body panel sources 200 1985

      I would think it is the same for all years. Two screws to a bracket and one to the fender.

      Tom








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        Body panel sources 200 1985

        I would think it is the same for all years
        ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

        that is an 86-93 body. The Change Year was 1986

        earlier models, did not have all the plastic guards on the lower part of the body...the shape of body also changed...

        http://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2008/01/11/02/13/1985_volvo_240-pic-22922.jpeg


        http://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2008/04/30/14/08/1986_volvo_240-pic-27289.jpeg











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          Body panel sources 200 1985

          Oh yeah, son's 1978, rusting away, still had both mud flaps and I don't know how they were fastened. I was not thinking about the year. Thanks.

          Tom







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