Just curious, if you had to choose between a 1980 240 with manual transmission or 1990 240 with auto which would you choose? Why?

Personally, I like the 1980...it has a little bit more coolness factor with the dual round headlights but I'm not sure of the engine in the 1980? Is it a B21 or B23?

I know the 90 pretty well since I drive a 91 daily but there is something about the 80 that grabs my attention a little more. I'm worried about the cost of ownership on the 80 since it has mechanical injection....Is that something that needs more attention than the electronic injection like the 2.4 I'm so used to?

Thanks for your feedback.

The 1980 will have a B21F with K-jet "mechanical" fuel injection. Don't let that scare you. It is a very simple system and once you understand it, easy to maintain. In my experience, K-jet is less hassle than LH-Jet, which is usually plagued by electrical problems and bad sensors in the car's "old age." K-jet does not have an air mass meter, crank position sensor or other expensive parts that fail on the newer 240s with some regularity.

The old B21 is a real workhorse of an engine. I believe it has 5 main bearings, a cast crank and forged connecting rods. Pretty much indestructible.

I also agree that the pre-86 240s are better looking cars with their quad headlamps, chrome door handles and none of that cheesy plastic body molding.

As the old Packard slogan went--ask the man who owns one. I bought my '80 245DL w/M46 from the 2nd owner in 2000 who had it for 18 years. It had 123K miles when I got it--over 275K now. It ran well when I got it--still does. Except for replacing the fuel pump (w/used one) along the way I haven't touched the FI system. The car has had the normal brakes, timing belts, filters, PCV service (easy with the valve cover mounted system the '80 uses), exhaust that you'd expect to do in 150K miles and it continues to truck right on--hauling scrap metal, towing cars, driving through the woods at the race tracks where I do photos, etc. etc. etc. It is the most boring car I've ever owned--save for maybe the 1960 Falcon--but I wouldn't give it up for anything. -- Dave

Hi,

If it were me I would go with the 90.

I own a 90 244 and 92 245 both auto.

Since you own a 91 a lot of the parts will interchange between the two.

You can also stock up on normal wear items when you have spare cash so that there is no downtime spent on waiting for parts.

Later model parts are also easier to come by.

Travis

Thats a pretty good thought....I have managed to do almost all my own work on my 91....I'm now starting to replace all the bushings on the suspension. Its fun actually and very gratifying. I didn't realizr there was so much difference in parts btwn 10yrs. I do have a small supply of parts I've collected from my 91 that would fit a 90 or newer I'm sure.

After al I really haven't had any trouble with any 2.4 from either 2.4 cars I've owned (I have an 89 740 also)

Cool....thanks.

In particular, you have a "rolling known good" item for all that troubleshooting like the AMM, Power Stage, etc.

from the perspective of an owner of an 80 244 with a 4speed (bought used in 1988 with 75K, now 237K) and an 87 245 with a 5spd(bought used in 1997 with 103K, now 194K)

the 80 has the B21 engine, with K-Jet. the only thing on it that involves a "computer" is the Lambda emissions system. And the only other thing that is in any way "electronic" is the breakerless Bosch ignition. The 80 has an Aux Air Valve for Idle control, not a IdleAirControl(IAC).
From my experience, besides changing the O2 sensor, a new Lambda relay,re-setting the CO level, a new Fuel Injection Relay,re-newed vacuum related hoses, new fuel pumps(main and in-tank)...I've had no major problems.

This model is inside the Engine Wiring harness insulation failure years range, and I have had to spice in some new wiring...oil pressure, connections at the Grey connector at the firewall, cold start injector.

If the car has AC, the belt set up is a Pain...as it involves a set of shims on the crank pulley...so a loose belt means removing the front 1/2 of the pulley ---held on by 4 bolts to studs --- and removing some of the shims......

If it's just got a 4speed - M45 and not the M46 with the Overdrive, then at today's highways speeds 75-85MPH the engine will be running at 4K+ RPM an will be screaming. It can take it but can you as a driver for more than a hour or so, stand the high noise level.

As far as the engine, the B21 is pretty bullet proof. adjust the valves, change the timing belt that's it.

I've had the Heater Core Fail.
Heater fan near failure...but with 80 it has an open armature motor....the brass bushings can be lubricated, by drilling 3 holes in the plastic casing and squirting oil on the shaft/bushing....still has the orig fan motor.


It's a great "town" car. cruises comfortably at 65MPH ---noisewise.(4SPd)
And No computer controls.

Plus it's got True "commando style" bumpers. Not like today's new models that have no bumpers at all.

PS I have a garage and so the environmental stress is limited...

The New price of my 80 was $9500, the New price of the 87 wagon was $19K+.

I like the 87 for road trips. also it's a wagon...it replaced another wagon that died.
It and those later models had hot dipped galvanized body parts, that did a lot to solve the rust problems that plagued the earlier models. but then it depends on the where you are road salt wise. They are quieter on the road. And there are more of them around still living.

80 has the M46. Wire insulation was mentioned? Was 1980 a year for bad wiring? How can I tell if its bad? Will it be brittle when moved?

Look at the grey plug at the firewall. A lot crumbly insulation will be seen there and bare wires.

with an OD you're good to go.


Yes...combined with age....my 80 was actually built in May of 79 for the 80 model roll out in the fall...so that's coming on 34 years.

The Interior wiring, from my experience does not suffer failures.

Look at the Grey firewall connection...the wires that go from the engine will be brittle. I had the insulation come off. The wire that pass under the crank are in a plastic sheilding. they are to the Alt and from the Distrib to the Ignition Control Unit that sits by the window washer bottle.... The insulation crumbles and Also, due to oil leakage, sometimes from leaking from seals, the plastic collects oil and this further rots the wires.

The only "good" thing about set up of the 80 is that there are lot less wires....since there is no Computer feedback loop to the Injectors and the Ignition(save the Lambda loop) the AMM. There are a lot less to replace and a lot less to troubleshoot.

I you want some idea of what generally goes wrong besides these models...go to this page and download the Volvo Advanced Troubleshooting Manual.


http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=volvo/Trouble%20Shooting%20Guides

ps there's also a mine of Volvo Service Manuals linked from the Home Page

PS
during those early 240 years all the Glass...windshield, rear window, side/door windows were stamped with a year, just 2 digits.

Also the front yellow directional/running plastic and the rear light covers had a circle with a year number(2 digit) inside that circle.

a hint of they have been replaced and/or in an accident

This car was cool. My son had a 1978 245, M46 faded classic school bus/mustard yellow with a brown interior and he drove it about 4 years. Rust had already taken its toll in the rockers and the floor. Wiring was beyond patched. Had to take it to JY before it become a real money pit. Son got his pick-up truck, small 4, manual tranny.

Get both or the lesser of the potential money pits. You know that it will take some, many, dollars to get it right.

Tom

Which one has less rust? How do each of them run. If want a car to play with, that is different than a daily driver. For daily driver I usually think newer, but the newest car here is 22 years old. Probably comes down to overall body condition to me, but everyone has there own fears. For what it's worth, I like the older ones also. Mike