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If you were to recommend one brand to put in front struts, what would it be?
I plan on putting in a good priced durable strut, but am willing to hear more expensive choices. Just seeing what a good tally I can come up with... I know there's cheap and super expensive. I also know if I buy the spring compressor tool, I'm not opposed to doing the job more than once. I'm sure it gets easier every time.
I've done my research, but I'm waiting to pull the trigger. What would you recommend?
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Hi,
On the strut compressors-
I bought my set at Autozone (knowing I would use them a number of times) for $35. They look almost exactly the same as the ones from Sears. They are very sturdy and dependable.
Travis
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I have installed about twenty sets of the KYB GR2/Excel struts and shocks. Very reasonably priced and I have several sets out there with over 20k on them and still doing fine. I expect the rears will do 50k and the fronts at least 30, but hopefully more. Perfect for "stock" suspensions in my opinion.
I have removed Monroe and "Sears" strut cartridges to find them blown with 20k miles or less on several occasions. A little amazed by that. I used to swear by Monroe shocks and ran them on many vehicles, but I admit never in the struts of a Volvo.
For more performance oriented suspensions (and drivers) Bilstein HDs. I have never had a problem installing them in early or late cars--yet. Have them on my own DD wagon, a 91, and love them. Expensive, to be sure, but I stock them anyway, along with the KYBs.
Did a 93 with Tokicos a couple of years ago. No problems, handled well, no idea on life expectancy. The car was wrecked. Not sure if they are still available.
I used the Sears version of the cheap, HFrt compressors for years on all my Datsuns and then many Volvos. When they wore out I started buying the HFrt sets. I think I've had three and I was always careful to change them out before the parts became worn enough to slip or snap. Only had that happen once, thankfully. Finally, after many years, I invested in HF's more upmarket compressor, the all-in-one unit that clamps both sides at once. Just love it, a pleasure to use. You can take a strut apart on the car in minutes.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bork x3
on
Fri Feb 8 09:08 CST 2013 [ RELATED]
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Ya know.. I wouldn't be opposed to Bilstein HDs if they lasted 100k or more... Not always sure if the car will, but I have hopes. I drive a 240!! But if they last just as long as the rest of the brands, then whats the point? If they last super long, I could see spending the extra money... Ya know? Thanks for the advice tho! I really appreciate it.
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Fri Feb 8 14:33 CST 2013 [ RELATED]
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FWIW
in one of these posts you mentioned that you were in NYC. My experience with Bilstien HDs were in another vehicle...a BMW 2002. In Maryland...they were very very stiff.
In NYC, having taken that very same Beemer up there and into the city...In that short wheelbase car it was torture.
I would look for a softer shock....Bilstien Touring ....which I just recently put in an 87 wagon.....
There was a strange problem with the rear shocks...that resulted in THUNKS. Seem some others on this board have had that problem...
My Rec Bils Touring front....KYB GAS ADJUST....not the Gxx cheaper ones...in the rear.
The best set up I had was KYB GAS ADJUST all around...but the front inserts are no longer available
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Bilstein HDs will last 100K easily!! At this point they will most likely outlast the car? Mixing different brands between front and rears sounds like a real stupid idea!!
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All good advice.. (for the most part) I appreciate everything I've heard and I've got a plan... Keep it coming!.. Still unsure about the gland nuts and whatnot. Pipe wrenches?... Special tools?... Stuff from Harbor Freight? (lol) If anyone has more advice on that, I'd be glad to hear it..
I have a feeling getting the dang thing off is the biggest challenge. I may/may not take it to a shop to have them compress the spring (I'll take the assembly off myself) and probably do the motor mount (Boge) as well.
But I don't need any new Volvo parts, like a new nut or anything?... Some goofy OEM plastic shield or anything?... If that's all good, I'm looking at a special tool, and maybe some plumbing equipment, and a couple of struts and mounts.
I'll inspect all the other parts I disconnect them, and deal with them later depending on the severity of their condition.
AND if I compress it myself, I'll take utmost precautions and wear maybe a helmet, a baseball cup and expect the worst. I mean, I've seen garage door springs replaced, and that's no joke either. I'll point it away from anything "hurtable", and pray for the best. Maybe test the "new" compression tool with minimal compression initially, keep it clean and greased, and then carefully "go-for it." Quick, nimble and safe.. Right?
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- 2 struts
- New upper and lower mounting nuts and bolts.
- 2 strut mounts - optional, but I would do them while you have it apart
- Nothing else is really necessary, but you could replace the spring seat and the strut bellows. The spring seat is metal so it probably isn't necessary but the bellows are rubber or plastic and relatively cheap.
Oh yeah, look for serious rust on the spring seat before pulling it all apart. Probably not an issue unless the car is a serious rust bucket...
--
95 855 GLT Sportwagon 217k, 90 244 DL 300k - after 11 years has a new home
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Ok, if I went to the dealership they'd know about the upper and lower mounting nuts and bolts?... I'm not confident (living in NYC) that the Manhattan dealership knows anything. I cringe every time I need dealership parts. They're about as helpful as screen doors on a submarine.
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Call or email Tasca or FCP Groton with your question. Groton had them for my 855 (I bought the struts, spring seats and new nuts and bolts from them). I think Tasca had them too. BTW - The nuts and bolts don't have to be OEM. You simply want to replace the old ones with correct-sized new ones.
--
95 855 GLT Sportwagon 217k, 90 244 DL 300k - after 11 years has a new home
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Bilstein HD's for front struts. Tough choice between Bilstein HD's or Koni yellow's. In the rear no question I'd put in the Koni yellow's.
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I did rebuilt the front end on my 1990 245 last year. I went with Volvo parts to include strut inserts and top strut mounts.They were stamped Monroe and Volvo, so far no problems.
Knowing what I know now, I would go ahead and replace the top strut mounts using Volvo Blue Box only. Oh! You might inspect the gland nuts, the PO on mine had some no name inserts installed and the installers used the gland nuts that were square. Additionally, the installer of the no name strut inserts used thread locker on the top strut nuts, the blue tipped wrench had to be employed for that. I had to use a pipe wrench to remove the aftermarket gland nuts. I replaced them with OEM's. I bought my Talon wrench on Ebay, it worked well. Art has a tutorial on his website for strut replacement IIRC.
It is a job for sure, but doable.
Good Luck.
Fred
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I have a 1983 240. I bought Monroe sensatrax (sp?). IMO, they work just fine, I am happy with the ride.
--
Sandy '83 244 dl daily driver
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Bilsteins HD in both my 240s 87 and 88 both 5 speeds,sport exhaust, IPD sway bars, and tower braces, 16 inch Aries wheels from a 940 and 15 Hydras from a 740 turbo. love the ride and the handling.Lifetime warranty as well when I purchased 10 years ago!! and still going strong.
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Hydras are 16" wheels, btw.
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What can fit in your 1992 240 whether ABS or no:
- Boge Turbo Gas or (more like factory compliant yet more sprightly) Automatics
- Bilstein Touring
- Koni (Orange or Yellows as you like)
What won't fit in the strut tube, yet one decade ago some may have said:
- Bilstein HD
You must grind the metal away from the lower strut cartridge housing exterior so it fits inside the 1989 or 1990+ 240 strut housing. Or you must replace the 1990+ strut housings with early to mid 1980s strut housings.
Have you or are you changing springs? What about bushing, hubs, steering rack (inner & outer tie rods). The usual karp.
Are you replacing the strut mount? Volvo OEM only. Have yet to learn if the Boge branded Volvo 240 strut mount from Boge is the same as the Volvo OEM strut mount that Boge supplies to Volvo.
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I have a 1993 (ABS) 245. And a set of 4 Bilstein HD's. Perhaps they're harsh, but I like the firm, connected feel.
The fit is very tight on the front, I even had to peel of the very thin plastic sticker to get the strut to fit inside the tube. Then, where on earlier cars there is a spacer that can be removed, on a very late model (ABS?) car, it's welded in. I fit the strut all the way in, and screwed the gland nut on, it engaged threads, went around 4 or 5 times. Enough threads, I thought, to hold it (it's supposed to bottom out on the strut, not the tube, anyhow). I used some loctite. Every once in a while I peel up the blue boot, but no signs of wiggling loose yet.
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)
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Well, I know this will sound complicated, but I'm planing this for 2 different 245's.. The '89 is a friends I'm helping with, and my '90 245 is 900 miles away in WI...
1st: '89 245 with IPD HD Rear Springs and KYB GR-2 shocks... The strut mounts seem fine (No tight corner clunk or noise)
2nd: '90 245 With Boge/Sachs Automatic rear shocks and the original springs. Planning on HD Springs in back. The strut mounts seem good, but I'm not positive.
I guess the '89 will be a "practice car" and the '90 will be done later on.. If that makes any sense. Also planning on the full IPD Anti-roll setup and chassis brace upgrade for the 90 245..
The '90 needs no steering or front suspension work, but the '89 I think may need the works.. Also trying to not go overboard with the 89, and limiting the front end alignment to only 1...
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If you have Overload Springs in the back (wagon) should the front struts be stiffer to compensate?.. Or doesn't that matter?
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No suggestions here because the last time I bought them the Boge OEM were still available...which are what I would have suggested.
"I also know if I buy the spring compressor tool, I'm not opposed to doing the job more than once. I'm sure it gets easier every time."
It is a really unrewarding thankless task as automotive maint goes (in my opinion) so it is something you only want to do every 100K miles or so. Getting the spring compressors for "free" from a chain like Autozone is actually easier in my opinion. I still throw them my business if I use their loaner tool.
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I thought the Sachs Automatic were the same as you mentioned.
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No one ever complained about the quality control of the Boge's but I believe there have been a number of complaints of early failures on the Sach's version of late.
My take on 240 handling...if you restore it to OEM including all the bushings and new springs fir any showing excessive sag, you will be AMAZED how well it handles. You have to get over the drunken-sailor lean (its a mental thing) and just keep pushing the car. Even side to side transitions are quicker than the body roll would indicate.
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Use a quality spring compressor. They come in many forms yet all are manual.
Inspect the threaded rods on each spring compressor. Verify the thread (rod and nuts) are not full of a bunch of nasty crunchy crap and that the thread is undamaged. You may want have the tool lender or rental company inspect, clean the crap out, and smear on and work in some new grease.
Don't use a impact wrench on a spring compressor! You are limited to applying not more torque than you can using a long-handled (presumably using a six point) socket wrench.
Take your time. The task is frustrating. Only the TABs meet or exceed replacing or servicing struts.
Why you may consider new Volvo OEM strut mounts now if not already.
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Anyone here with an opinion on the spring compressors at harbor freight tools?
There going for around $13.00.
Larue
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Those are the ones I've been using for 10 years now. I can't say they are the best ever, but they work. Just keep them greased up and be careful.
Nate
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Yeah, thats all I wont them to do is work. Thanks for your comment.
I love the price.
LaRUE
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"Don't use a impact wrench on a spring compressor! You are limited to applying not more torque than you can using a long-handled (presumably using a six point) socket wrench."
Really? I have never read this before. I have used my cheapie $20 compressors on at least 15 sets of struts at this point, and since I've owned air tools I always compress with the impact gun. Just did last night, in fact. Having done it enough times manually and my arm being totally tired out afterwards, I love having the impact gun to do it. How is that inherently more dangerous than the already dangerous compressors?
Just curious . . .
Nate
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I agree, as long as the bolts are blued metal like all my other impact tools.
It would take a source other than Kitty to change my mind.
After all these years.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Agree 100%, I've always used an impact to run the spring compressor down. It's not like you can over tighten it, the spring just . . . . . . . . compresses.
In fact anything that shortens the time you're manipulating the spring is IMO a good thing.
Dave Shannon
Durango CO
'88 Volvo 240 DL
'67 1800S
My Volvo Pages
My Jeeps
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Hi Nate and Bruce,
I think Kitty means well for first timers like myself. Can you please reconsider?
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=667272&showall=1
--
Is your glass half full or half empty?
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"I think Kitty means well for first timers like myself."
However well-meant, Kitty's authoritatively phrased (but un-sourced) advice can lead to myths that grow with every reading — especially for first timers like yourself, who have no basis for deciding who to believe.
With no opposition, unfounded tips like this are very likely to become (erroneous) Brickboard lore.
And that pisses me off.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Hi Bruce,
Yes, I can feel the heat coming off from my screen. I think I will get a pair of flame retardant proof eye glasses next time.
All I can say is... Our life is too short and too beautiful. Take a deep breath my friend and enjoy it more. I will leave at this.
--
I adore my 240s and adore my BB members even more.
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I'm sure Kitty means well, I just hadn't heard that before and wondered what was more dangerous about it.
The keys, I find, are to always do this from the side--the spring not pointed at me--and to make sure the compressors are 180 degrees apart. The worst thing I've had is that one slipped around to the other one because they were a bit too close together and not compressing the spring evenly. That was frightening, but had nothing to do with the impact gun, as far as I can tell. It was just a stupid error on my part that I will never repeat.
You definitely have to be very careful while compressing springs. However, I'm still loving the many hours and arm muscles I've saved using that impact gun :)
Nate
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Hi Nate,
It's always great to hear different experiences and stories from BB members. I will make a note when I replace my struts near future. Thank you as always.
--
You can't teach an old cat new rope tricks.
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Hello All,
I liked the OEM on the 240 until I put Bilstein Touring class on my 855. Bought them from cheaper than most. The Bilstein Touring class should have been stock on all Volvo's in my opinion. Not harsh like Bilstein HD's, no sag like OEM.
It was a striaght forward job with a jack and ramp. 2 hours of satisfying work. then you can put the money you save into the next repair/upgrade.
cheers,
greendread
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has anyone actually used the estonian / latvian fake rear koni's? I was referenced to turbobricks but couldn't find any real data. $35? each rear?
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bmwjohn-
I remember reading some old posts on TB that some people on there had tried them out (some struts & some shocks) and I think the consensus was that they were quite good after installation but quickly failed.
Travis
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