I have a '89 Volvo 740 GL wagon with 154K on the clock that has a very difficult to diagnose "no start" issue.

When the temperature is 10 F (-14C) or warmer the starter will start the engine just fine.

If the temperature gets any colder you turn the key to start the engine and all you get is loud audible "click" and the starter will not activate. Turning the key off and on repeatedly just gets you click, click, click, click, click, click, and then suddenly the starter turns and the engine starts. Turn the engine off and it will start fine. All is well until the car sits and gets cold and then you are back to click, click, click, etc.

The starter has been replaced with a near brand new one that tests fine for motor and solenoid. Terminals on solenoid were thoroughly cleaned and reassembled with Dielectric grease.

The battery is in good condition, clean and the terminals have been thoroughly cleaned.

Positive battery terminal clamp has been replaced with a solder on replacement. The Negative terminal has been wire brush cleaned. Both are tight.

All the grounds have been cleaned (chassis, firewall to engine head, ground to block, multi connectors on inner fenders) and reassembled with dielectric grease.

The car did this before I did all the things listed above but this made no difference. The car still exhibits this no start when cold syndrome.

I am running out of ideas as to what might be the cause. Suggestions?
Steve B

Hi Steve

I had the same problem with my now long gone 740, but temperature didn't seem to be a factor.
It was an erratic no start problem like yours.

Here's one thing that worked for me. When the car refused to start, I'd take a large
screwdriver and short the solenoid lugs, and the starter would spin fine and the car would start.
(make sure you have a flashlight for doing this at night)

Then the car would start normally sometimes for months before failing again.
I never pinpointed the exact culprit except that there wasn't enough available current
at the starter solenoid. The D+ circuit includes the shifter interlock and the ignition switch.
I don't know if the starter solenoid can be the cause, since it outright refuses to pull in,
then after starting with a screwdriver all runs normal for various intervals. It's a puzzler.

Carefully examine the part of the heavy battery cable ends where the cable crimps on.
I had some nasty corrosion at the crimp ends and had it professionally repaired at a starter
shop. But the intermittant problem remained.

Good luck, Bill

I'd also consider the possibility that you may still have a bad starter. Just because it was replaced that doesn't automatically mean 100% guaranty that it's good...

A while back a thread discussed a hot start problem and one brickboarder suggested running cold water on the hot starter solenoid or starter - this allowed the poster to find his problem.

Perhaps you could try a hair dryer to heat up the solenoid or some of the other components to try to find the offender.

You also might try a remote starter switch as is used for compression checks to eliminate everything but the starter, solenoid and primary wires to each.
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'96 855R,'64 PV544 driver, '67 P1800 basket case, '72 Yamaha Rd400, '68 Honda 350-4, '12 XC70, the first 5 are mine, heh, heh, 525,000 miles put on 10 bricks James A Sousa

Normally that shows a weak battery or connections. You say "good battery". Tested under a load? Two things I would test. Next time it clicks. Measure voltage directly at the battery when trying to start. Jumper 12volts directly to the starter. I would suspect battery cables under the insulation has internal corrosion.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

Have you replaced the red heavy gauge wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the alternator?

If you read through my recent thread on my 780 not starting, you'll see that I went through almost every other wire in the charging circuit before realizing this wire was the culprit.

One symptom my car had was the need to turn the key a number of times before the starter finally kicked in. As the temperature gets colder, a cable that is iffy might be more prone to have a problem, and your battery will just have to fight harder.

Not saying that your battery is the cause, but see if you can replace that cable. It sounds as though you've done almost everything else so far.

Like bwright's problem (see huge thread in 700 forum), I think your charging cables have worn out (battery to starter (+), ground to engine block and frame (-), and alternator ground (-). Try some "voltage drop" tests with a multimeter on these cables. Even though the terminals have been cleaned, the wire itself corrodes, and is too resistive to electrical currents. After 24 years wires wear out too!
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