I have a Volvo 240. 1991. 143,000 miles. Sedan. Automatic.

I recently posted about a hitch. Currently, I have bigger problem. Yesterday, it was snowing and I slid into a curb--wasn't going that fast but took it into a shop today and they found a bent control arm and some other things. Was quoted at $487. Labor would be 150. Lower control arm, right: 150. Two bushings: 53. Swaybar link: 25. and 80 for alignment.

My question is: I've worked quite a bit on my volvo. I have jackstands, a jack, and a craftsman set of tools. Never done the control arm before. Is this something I could handle? I have the Bentley Manual: it isn't with me right now, but I can get it in a couple of days.

Also, I looked for parts on IPD, eeruoparts, and FCP Groton. It seems they're going for roughly $70. Are any control arms better than others, as for as manufacturers go.

Is alignment something that the shop would have to do? They've been really helpful, so I'd be happy to give them my service, it's just that 500 is a lot and money is kind of tight.

Thanks for your help.

Jimmy

Just got the parts. Read through the procedure in my Bentley manual: it says, "do not reuse the self-locking nuts"--do I need to go to a hardware store and pick up another batch of bolts?

Also, where is the tranny traverse section? (where I should place the jack).

Thanks,

Jimmy

Oh darn. Should've gone with the Poly's but got the message too late. Tried to press in the bushings with a small vice I have at home...lost cause. Any other methods? Could I take it to any mechanic's shop?

You could use blue loctite if you are concerned but the plastic inserts in self locking nuts is supposed to be for single use. I just torque to spec and don't worry about it.

I think he is referring to the the cross member that holds the trans mount. You can also use the engine cross member.
Dan

Dan, the self locking nuts holding the ball joint assembly to the control arm are not the type with an insert. Instead they are "misshapen" at the top end--sort of oval. I always use the new ones supplied with a new ball joint but have, on many occassions, reused them when swapping in used parts. Have never had a problem. The suggestion to use the trans crossmember is a new one to me--I always lift from the engine/suspension crossmember being careful to place the jack pad so the teeth catch the back end but not so far back as to hit the oil pan. The advantage I can see in using the trans crossmember is that it will lift the car a bit more. -- Dave

Put your jack under the tranny traverse section. Lift the car, place your jack stands at the jacking mounts and lower your car, slowly, securely.

Got all of the parts through FCPeuro for $80. I guess Scan Tech and Meyle are the same manufacturer--at least that is what the guy on the phone said. Ordered UPS, so I should have the parts by tomorrow. Thanks for your help, I let you know if I run into any problems.

If I have to jack up the car to get both wheels up off the ground for the swaybar link, where should I put the Jack so that I can use the jack points for jack stands? I have a craftsman floor jack.

Thanks,

Jimmy

For Jacking points, get a good piece of 2X4 6 or 8 inches long and put it on top of the jack. Then, jack one side at a time on the boxed frame rail, just in front and inboard of the regular jack point. If you don't use a 2x4, it may crush some and that is not so good. Then put the jack stands on the regular jacking point.

At least, this is how I always do it...and I've done it at least 20 times on 240s . . .

Nate

I just got a Scan Tech control arm from fcpeuro for $34 and am acutally amazed at how good the quality is. Didn't see that one coming. $34?! I could buy THREE before I got one Volvo one. I figured that if there is no rubber or plastic in it, I'd give Scan Tech another chance. It is even powder coated quite nicely. Comparing it to the very rusty original, the welds look good and it is a very close replica. the poly bushing kit for both sides was more expensive than the single control arm! And yes, those poly bushings go in like butter.

For the rear bushing, with a few pipe fittings you can press in a new one, or just take it to a shop and give them $10 to press it. Not too tough. Just take the back bushing housing off with the old control arm and then separate them--should be easier.

For the sway bar endlink, those are cheap (usually around $12). Just be sure to lift both front wheels off the ground when replacing it, or the bar will be torqued and you won't be able to get the new one to line up.

These are not extremely difficult things to do. If you've worked on the car some, it really is do-able.

Best wishes!

Nate

Replacing the control arm is really easy -- the hardest part is lying on your back on a cold concrete garage floor -- as long as you have a good set of wrenches and socket sets.

In my case, I just wanted to change all my front end bushings to IPD's poly, and I found that the small OEM bushing on my original arms was too tough to remove, so I just coughed up the price for new ones (from my Volvo dealer) that come without any bushings (so I could put in poly's).

Here are the list (and VCoA discount) prices from my Volvo dealer:
Left: 1205680-0, $117.58/$105.82
Right: 1205686-7, $117.58/$105.82
As you can see, that $150 your mechanic quoted was a markup, and maybe wouldn't even be genuine Volvo parts!

If you have the tools and a warm place to work, go for it.

I lost traction on a wet road in a dedicated turn lane and bent the left front control arm into a pretzel hitting the concrete island.

I had to use a metal grinder to cut away the metal to be able to access some of the bolts.

I was lucky enough to have gotten the new arm with the bushing intact and the stabilizer link still attached.

Getting the damaged control arm off was a bigger challenge than installing the replacement.

The key to getting the job done with the least aggravation is how long it takes to get the old bushings out.

Seeing as your control arm is bent, I would buy new and get poly bushings. You can install those bushings real easy if you don't have to burn, cut, scrap, press out, etc, the old nasty ones. You can set up the bushings in the new one, get it all ready to go, then just swap it with the old one. You'll probably need a good breaker bar for the steering knuckle/shock bolts, so be prepared for that.

Good luck.

"You'll probably need a good breaker bar for the steering knuckle/shock bolts"

Which bolts are you referring to here? The ones on the bottom of the strut tube? I found those exceedingly easy to remove with a 3/8" el-cheapo ratchet. I got lots of practice too as I went through about 6 ball joints at the PnP trying to find one good right and one good left ball joint. Only once in those eight removals (including the two on my car) did I resort to cheater bar and I live in the rust belt.

Now the long bolt through the bushing is a different matter.

See...I had no issue with the long bolt. Each car is different.

Just saying it might be a good idea to have one on hand (breaker bar). Every tool box should have one. And it's not a "cheater bar", it's not a competition to remove bolts :P

"Every tool box should have one. And it's not a "cheater bar"

No, a cheater bar is what you put of the handle of the ratchet or breaker bar to further increase leverage. In my car a have a 3/4" ID pipe 24" long and at the house I have a 1" ID pipe, with 3/4" bushing on one end, about 4' long...finally I have my tubing bender handle extension that is 6' of 2" square 1/4" wall mild steel tube...only use that one on the bender or my 24" pipe wrench...talk about leverage!

Agreed that everyone should have at least on breaker bar...I have three and one doubles as my hydraulic jack handle!

Hi Jimmy,

Pick up one of the control arms on Ebay-Dorman or Meyle, which you can pick up for around $35-$55.

You probably only need one bushing-front position control arm bushing, unless your rear ones in the bracket are bad from normal wear.

If you get rubber bushings go with Boge or Lemfoerder. You will need to get the bushing pressed in at a machine shop unless you have a large, heavy duty vice and a ton of brute strength. It takes a lot to get them in-I have done it and hope I don't need to again anytime soon.

The easier (and wiser) route would be to buy a polyurethane bushing-you can install them by hand.

Pick up a sway bar end link kit (comes with link, washer, bushings, etc.) from one of the places you have mentioned or Ebay. I have used Meyle end links and they seem to be decent. Should run you $12-$16.

Now here is the part you could have trouble with (I did)...

There is a long bolt that runs through the control arm bushing and into the cross member of your vehicle. Corrosion can get in the space where the bolt passes through the steel bushing sleeve and lock it up so that you cannot remove the bolt. You might want to put the front of your car on jackstands remove the nut and see if the bolt has movement. Otherwise you will need to cut the end of the bolt and the bolt head and replace it with new.

I can dig up the part #s of the bolt and nut if needed. You would probably need to get it from a dealer.

After you do the job you will need an alignment. Call around to garage, tire shops, etc. for prices. Here in PA at a independent tire shop it costs $45.

Travis

On a tight budget--here's what I'd do. Buy a used control arm--whether you take it yourself at a pick-a-part place or from an auto wrecker you can have it with the rear bushing and housing, sway bar link and ball joint w/ball joint housing all attached--maybe run you $50 at a DIY yard--maybe $100 at a wrecker. The front bushing rarely, if ever needs to be replaced so a used control arm is not likely to need it. Your rear bushing may be ripped from the impact but a quick examination of a used one in the attached housing will tell you if it's good.
Do as Travis suggested--loosen the nut on the front bushing pivot bolt--if the head can turn easily with the nut loosened it will come out (check yours first to see if you want to get involved in the work to remove a stuck bolt--check that bolt first at the D-I-Y place--pick one that will come out ok). You can take the control arm with or without the ball joint--just a matter of the three bolts ball joint to control arm--or the four bolts ball joint housing to strut.
The price quoted is reasonable enough for a shop to charge--but if the alignment is for four wheels--ask what they'd charge to just take care of the front. The rear will not need alignment unless the rear suspension bushings are worn--and if that's the case the cure is new bushings there--nothing to "align".
If you know enough about alignment you can do the job with string and a carpenters level. I do that myself but fully understand why a novice would be more comfortable with a reputable shop doing it.
I can feel your pain as I crunched a right side control arm on my 144 years ago--same deal--snow covered ice--a little too much speed--unfortuneately placed curb. -- Dave

That is a pretty straight forward nuts and bolts replacement if you can get the parts and have a decent set of tools. It may or may not need alignment, but to get it right a shop would need to do it.
Dan

The car should not need an alignment unless the tie rods or struts are replaced. If your carefull the tie rods can be replaced without alignment as well. You will need a vice to press those bushings in as well.