I've obtained Volvo rubber trailing arm bushings from TASCA and now am in the process of gathering the parts to make the home brew bushing tool. I think I picked up all that I can from Home Depot, now I'll be ordering a couple bolts and some nuts from McMaster.

I do not have a drill press, lathe, or bench grinder though. Any tips on making the tool?

If all goes well I'll attempt the bushing replacement within the next 2 or 3 weeks.

Regards,

13

All finished. The hardest part was getting the big trailing arm bolt back through the new bushing and through the trailing arm holes. I cleaned up the bolt and lubed it with soap. Also used a ratchet strap to pull the axle some towards the bumper.

I guess people are probably used to me supporting the urethane bushing route, especially for the butt of the car. Easier to install, as long as your old shells aren't a mess, and especially if the rubber inside is! My primary reason for preferring them is longevity. I think it's safe to say the urethane bushings will outlast most of the cars they are installed in. I use urethane for rear of the trailing arms and the torque rods.

DS

I'm not sure urethane will "outlast" most of the cars they're in.. Or even traditional rubber bushings. It's possible, but from my personal experience, I've had urethane bushings in my skateboard that have become brittle and cracked apart pretty quickly. Traditional rubber just smooshes and kinda compacts itself.

Maybe it has a lot to do with climate, cold or not, and if oil or gas gets on it, it may degrade faster. Also too the manufacturing process. If it's poured wrong, it may fail eventually. As we all know, there's no prefect solution to some of those components. They were designed to be replaced, and usually the car runs longer than these parts. Especially if you take good care of the car.. Also too, what kind of weight do you haul around? They all have their "load capacities" that are generally up to the specs of the original load capacity. Exceed those on a daily basis and any bushing's gonna fail.

If there was a "magic" bushing or "magic" tie rod end, shock/strut, that lasts forever, we'd all have them. So really it comes down to what type of ride you'd prefer. Stiff or soft, and you can get pretty custom in mixing and matching rubber and urethane throughout the car. I personally like the softer OEM feel, and others prefer a stiffer, more modern feel. I guess once you figure out what you'd like, you can go from there.

Good news. Got the passenger side bushing installed last night after work. The new bushings go in so much easier than removing the old ones.

The bad news is that I'm having trouble aligning the trailing arm back in place so I can put the big trailing arm bolt through the bushing to mount the trailing arm back up. It is about 1/8 of an inch off. I got the bolt started on the differential side, but can't get it to line up on the wheel side hole of the trailing arm.

yea... I remember it's not easy. You don't have the shock in place do you?... Also, I feel like you should take the bolt out completely and wait till it's lined up properly... Maybe this is where another set of hands or another jack comes into play?... It's hard for me to remember, and I can't see what's going on w/your side of things..

I remember personally there was a point where I had to take things apart and re-attach in a different order, and then it worked.. I remember I had a jack under the rear diff, and one under the rotor... Look at my original post, at the last picture. Always save the shock for last.. If you don't have two jacks, It's possible you can use the Volvo "spare tire" scissor jack.

Jack up the front of the diff to twist the axle a bit.

Thanks Derek, I'll give that a try tonight after work.

Is part of the hole in the sleeve visible on the no go side? Can you get a philips screwdriver (sears), file end, punch, in the end and wedge it over?

I received my TABs and have to go shopping for parts. I've done it many times, in my mind.

Tom

I've got the driver's side bushing replaced and the passenger side old bushing out. Job is going fine so far and the tool works swell.

Much thanks to Michael Dwyer for loaning me the pusher part of his home brew tool.

My old bushings were not all that trashed considering they were 21 years old. The clunking in my suspension must be something else.

13

It might make the clunking go away.. I don't think it was a bad idea you replaced them.. It's possible someone else replaced them, and didn't put things back together properly.. Go around and check the tightness of any bolts you see. Also remember to torque when the weight of the car is on the ground... If all else fails, try and rock the car up and down/side to side to re-create that clunking. Have a friend do that, and look for the general area of the problem. It's a 2 person job.

Also, I like to just hit old crumbly bushings with PB B'laster or silicone spray to re-charge them. May not be the greatest idea, but it's always worked for me. Replacing is the right thing to do, but when you don't have time or money, it's better than nothing, until you can get to it, that is...

Then it could be the torque rod bushings, the good news is they are much easier! Good place to use poly.
Dan

Thanks for the suggestion Pageda.

I installed adjustable torque rods with poly bushings a few years ago and they seem fine. So I'll have to see how things go after I get everything back together.

13

I got started tonight, but stopped because I got tired of laying down in a puddle of water that was coming into the garage due to the heavy rain tonight.

I was able to jack up the car and remove the rear tires with the car raised by jack stands.

I soaked everything in PBlaster again.

I successfully removed the rear anti-sway bar.

I was messing around with my sockets to make sure I had the correct ones and I seem to not have the correct size wrench or socket for the nut that goes on the bolt through the rear trailing arm bushing. It is the big nut on the outside closest to the disc brakes.

Does anyone know the correct wrench or socket size for that one?

I'm anxious to drop the trailing arms down to take some photos of the old bushings. It seems like my driver's side one is shot since the bolt appears to not be centered and the rear driver's side of the car is sagging down about 3/4 inches.

I spent some time this weekend fabricating the bushing removal tool. I believe I'm all set. I'll be parking the 240 wagon in the garage and getting it up on stands so I can drop the rear trailing arms out of the way and soak the bushings and nuts.

By the way, what size sockets and wrenches am I going to need to use for the various nuts and bolts on the rear trailing arm, socks, and sway bar?

Thanks,

13

Need a time out. How did you grind off the threads on the pusher?

Tom

I have an air tool set with several different types of grinder attachments. I used a couple of those and a flat file to wear down the threads on the pusher/plug. It's not perfect, but hopefully it works without binding up.

Thanks, got it. I was just reading some old TAB tool posts. One said, in so many words, the more cylindrical, (machine tool lath like) the better. I'll see what I can do with my bench grinder and some perpendicular holder setup. The person broke a bolt because the push part cantered or tilted. Another one said to install the bushing with never seize. Not in Miami anymore. Won't hurt and should not rotate because of the fit.

Tom

Yes, I can see how a lathe would be ideal. Hopefully a bunch of lubrication will help things out. If all goes well, I'll be working on it this weekend.

Hi Tom and Dan,


I used a metal disc grinder, it gets the job done fast but not accurate.

15mm - spring and torsion bar nut
17mm - don't remember but used this one to.
18mm - shock and TAB bolts
21mm - shock and TAB nuts

I just did the rear TABs this weekend on the 93, but I replaced with the IPD poly's.
It always goes easier on the second car, but make sure you remember to mount the spacer thingy before you start cranking....both removal and replacement....it's easy to forget.

Thanks. I think I need to get an 18mm and 21mm socket.

I've got all the parts now that my McMaster order arrived today.
This weekend looks like I'll begin building the tool and soaking/cleaning around the TABs.

To each his own, but I had almost all the rubber bushings in our '89 wagon changed to polys about 7 years ago and haven't had to replace any of them yet. I give the bushings a squirt of "lubricating juice" occasionally and that's about it.

Hi Anthony,


Did you go polys all around? Or just swapped trailing arm bushing only?

How many miles did you put during those seven years?

Thank you.

Sorry to take so long responding to your query. I had my mechanic put polys everyplace in the suspension he could find, front and back. We drive about 9500 miles a year, so that's about 66.5k miles in 7 years.. My mechanic did advise I do lubricate them which I do about every 3 or 4 oil changes; amounts to about once a year, maybe twice.

A spray of WD-40 or PB Blaster does the job. . Im unable now to crawl under the brick to change my own oil & filter, (due to back issues,) so i go to a place to have it changed (about every 3k miles) and they allow me to get under the chassis and spray away while it's up on the rack. Of course I give them a good visual once over at those times and they are holding up very well.

I'm not a "harsh" driver so I think it does depend quite a bit on how hard one is on their brick. If it means anything, there's also heavy duty anti-sway bars, front and back and heavy duty springs on the brick (IPD).

Of course the ride might be much softer with rubber instead of polys, so it's up to the individual. Also our brick is a wagon, and I dont know how polys would affect a passenger bricks' ride..

Hi Anthony,


Thank you for your detailed response.



My back is not too good due to my weak core muscle and bad posture. I go for swim regularly and do light exercises to keep up. And use one of this... It really helps.

http://tptherapy.com/shop/smrt-core-products/the-grid.html

I have changed out a number of trailing arm bushings and what I have learned is that the week before removing the old bushings is the most important.

If you can do without the car put it up on jackstands and remove every trace of rust and scale you can on the surface of the old bushings. Coat the entire metal housing with Kroil or PBBlaster. Scrape with a dental pick on both "ears" where they contact the bushing. Tap the bushing and the edges of the ears with a hammer after applying more penetrating fluid.

Doing this a couple of times a day for several days will really make a difference when you apply the force of the tool. Penetrating fluid needs time to travel. The dental pick can remove portions of rust that have given up their holding power once the fluid has "softened" them clearing the route for more fluid to creep on.

I had my plugs drilled and turned to size years ago by a machinist at a place I was doing work for. They are the hardest part of the tool to make for guys without a lathe. I am surprised that someone on the Brickboard or Turbobricks who has access to a lathe hasn't seen the opportunity to make a dozen of the plugs and offer them up in the classifieds.

Randy

Thanks Randy, the 240 is currently a spare vehicle until my son begins driving it in November! So this weekend I'll work on the tool and prepping the old bushings for removal.

No big deal, but the item that everyone insists on refering to as a 'cap' is actually called a plug.

A cap fits on the outside a pipe. A plug fits in the inside.

--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

Useful link maybe?

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=53077

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=125784

Other 240 stuff listed there too.

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=138&order=desc

Great links. Thanks derek uk.

Last night I ordered some grade 8 bolts and nuts. Hopefully this weekend I can work on creating the tool.

13

Stuff you may have already read:
Just a heads up. The Bushing press out toward the Differential.
The new ones have a taper, put them in from the Differential and press them toward the tires.
There IS a top and bottom to these Beshings. The Thicker Rubber faces toward the ground.

3/8" drive sockets wont get it done. 1/2" Drive long handle Ratchet or breaker bar will be teh weapon of choice


--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

I need rear trailing arm bushings worse than you. 1992 244 200k

I have calipers, a grinder, hacksaw and good hand drill not to mention a bench vice. I think this is the minimum.

I have been paying lots of attention to the trailing arm bushing tool posts. What I am thinking is you need a grinder and this is a must, a hand drill with a good bit for a 1/2 or 3/8" bolt. How accurate does the the push out end cap grind have to be, I don't think too accurate. Just need the maximum (or minimum) diameter but the bigger the better for alignment. The flat surface on the end cap, why flat? Just drill very close to the center.

"Grinding the threads off of the end cap wasn't easy. It has to be ground down to the right diameter, and not too thin. A bench grinder was used, and a drill on the other side of the end cap, but the rotations were too much, and the cap kept falling off. We then used a locking pliers and just manually turned it."

There have been some posts with minor modifications I have been looking for. If I can find them I'll post them.

Tom

I've loaned my homemade tool out several times . . . if you pay for shipping and promise to send it back within a month or so, I'd be willing to send it your way. If you may "forget" to ever send it back, please don't take it. I use it for many other bushings besides the TABs!

I had access to a lathe when I made it. Definitely possible without, but it's going to take a long time and be a pain.

email me at nate underscore gundy at yahoo dot com if you're interested in borrowing it.

Nate

Uh... Without those machines, making the tool is going to be a PITA... If you have a drill and a bench vise clamp, I think it might be possible.. You need a drill grinding wheel and a lot of time and patience. Getting it down to the correct diameter will be the hardest part.

Here's a post I did when I made mine..

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1534366/220/240/260/280/trailing_arm_bushing_tab_replacement_89_245_complete_wpictures.html

If you can't do all that, maybe someone would sell you their old one, or worst case, you'd have to bite the bullet and buy the tool from Volvo.

I found this very helpful. Thanks. Would it be possible to measure the grind diameter of the end cap?

Tom

I'm sure this is what a "good" version looks like....

http://www.williammaloney.com/LandRover/VolvoBushings/VolvoBushings.htm

But from what I remember, the "pushing" end cap you're focusing on has to fit the diameter of the bushing perfectly, so it can push it through. Use the new bushing just to make sure.. (Be aware that you're trying to fit the tapered side of the new bushing.. Look at both sides, they are sized slightly differently, so one end can be pushed in through the bigger side of the mount) You want enough meat on that endcap, without going too drastic. It's going to be TONS of pressure, and if you shave it off too much, it may crack. Once you begin, you'll see what I mean.

The other endcap of the tool has to be big enough that the other end of that bushing can be pushed through it, while holding it's leverage on the mount of the car... So leave that stock. As you can see in my pictures, the Home Depot sticker is still on there, meaning "no modification necessary."

Thanks, that make perfect sense. And get the bushing first. Yeah, that is a nice looking tool.

Tom

This is the link I used to make my tool...

http://www-ese.fnal.gov/People/wilcer/volvo_trailing_arm_bushing_tool.htm

It turned out less than perfect tho. Even with the right tools. (my fault) It did the job pushing out the bushing, but when I pushed the new one back in, the diameter was too small, and I accidentally pushed and broke a bit of the rubber on the new one.. So, I had to create a makeshift washer to prevent it from destroying it upon re-entry.... So don't think you're out of the water once you've pushed the old one out. Be careful pushing the new one in. And don't be afraid to STOP and back off, just to make sure you're doing it right.

Dan - I just made this tool, used my electric drill clamped in a vice and a bastard file. Drilled a 3/8 pilot hole and used a bolt and nut to mount the plug on the bolt, then chucked the bolt in the drill. It took a few hours - grind - measure repeat, but it worked. Drilled it out to 1/2 when I was done. Tried to go easy on the file pressure to preserve the drill bearings. Strongly recommend getting a pair of calipers to check the dimensions so you don't remove too little or too much.

I just did the TAB job on the 92, but replaced with the IPD Poly bushings. Note to others if you go that route - pressed the new shell in first (with the tool) then the rubber will slide in by hand. I had to get some large diameter grade 8 washers from Ace to push the shell in. Sorry if that's off topic.

Ditto that on the PB plaster. When you're done you've earned a cold one.