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Hi guys,
My lovely 940 SE with the B230FT engine is playing up real bad :(
Can someone point me in the right direction please?
Symptoms are high idle speed and hunting, running too rich or lean, difficult to start off especially uphill without stalling, excessive fuel consuption, blowing smoke during idle, Lamda light is on and comes on a few seconds after resetting the computer. Drives ok when cold and warm just after starting the engine, but after a few seconds is back to no good.
The turbo and all the pipes following foul up with oil.
Many thanks,
Chris
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A leaking turbo hose can be difficult to find visually. They are easier to test in place with air pressure. A brake reservoir cap can be used to flush the brake system or clamp into the hose at the turbo and add air pressure (I use 15 lbs pressure). A leaky hose shows up under that pressure.
Breather boxes available aftermarket are usually trash. Purchase an Oring for the base of the one you have, take it off and clean it if it seems restricted. Check it by putting a 1/2" hose on the top opening and blowing into it after removing the oil filler cap. If it easily allows your lung pressure to pass it is probably just fine.
Good luck,
Randy
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for all your input.
I re-sealed the injectors and that stopped the engine from hunting at idle.
I measured 12V and 5V on the AMM connector but 0V on pim 3 so am now sure the AMM is faulty and have ordered a new one.
I'll also need to replace the hose from the AMM to the turbo then my rocket will be blasting off again I am sure!
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I think checking your PCV and turbo hoses as already mentioned are a good place to start, a good amount of work to complete.
1 qt. oil per 2000 miles is warning flag to me. Your O2 sensor is probably coated in oil, but don't replace it until some the above maintenance is done.
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Try the easy to search Expanded Style FAQ Index **here** I own a Volvo or Does Volvo Own Me?
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I am 90 percent sure you have a blown turbo hose, perhaps with a crack that opens up under even moderate boost. Start there first.
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See the 700/900 "FAQ" at the menu bar top screen left side.
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OK, did not know there was a Lambda light on a 940..who knew?
Have you pulled the codes?
Have you tried the unplugging the AMM (preferably key off) and seeing if the symptoms change?
These questions are all valid but if everything post turbo is full of oil and fills up again immediately after cleaning them and draining the intercooler, you probably blew the turbo's oil seal or have a clogged return oil line (and possibly blown seal).
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The 1991 940SE is the 760 from prior years with a B230FT, AW70 something, IRS usually or always, 960 relay and fuse locations, 940 like interior, 960 like exterior. Frankenstein's monster like. There is a true 1991 940 though.
Tom
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Thanks for your response.
I haven't pulled the codes yet as I don't have any facility for that.
In the three years I have owned the car there was only a quarter of a cup or less of oil in the intercooler when I checked that for the first time last week.
The engine only uses about a litre (Quart) of oil per month although I haven;t checked it since these symptoms suddenly came on a couple of days ago.
The revs do not change if I remove the oil filler cap.
I was wondering if this could be caused by a blocked breather?
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You have on board diagnosis. See the 700/900 FAQ and follow the instructions. Don't worry, you can't break anything. It may give the exact problem or just a hint of the real problem.
The quarter cup of oil was fine in the intercooler. Check again. Miles or Km?
Is the O2 sensor original? Engine temperature sensor ECT. Intake leak. Exhaust leak. No flame trap in the turbo but make sure the oil collector box is clear by dumping a little oil in the hose and making sure it drains. Clean the small copper suction tube in the manifold.
"difficult to start off especially uphill without stalling" could be hole in the hose, turbo to intercooler, check the bottom of the hose, or elsewhere in the system and the clamps. Foam rots out in the air filter box too.
A quart of oil per month sounds a little too high. Turbo worn out?
And the list goes on. I have a love hate relationship with 700/900 FAQ. It has a lot of simple and not so simple checks and tests you can do but read it over.
Tom
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I'm doing around 3000km (2000 Miles) per month.
I'll do the check on the breather tomorrow following your suggestion of pouring a little oil in and watching it drain.
I tried blocking the small hose that goes from the breather box to the throttle body and then blowing in the large hose that goes to between the air cleaner and the turbo and there was a pressure build up that returned when I released my lips from the hose, likewise a vacuum released when I sucked on the hose, so I am fairly sure the breather is blocked.
I guess that because the manifold is so complicated the simplest way is to pour some engine flush into the top of the breather box before perfoming an oil change?
Could the blocked breather cause the symptoms I described at the top of the thread?
Thanks for all your input.
Yes the car is a bit of a monster under the hood, but when it goes good it really goes good :)
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I've checked the breather box after draining the oil and watching how quickly it runs out of the oil drain. I wouldn't pour oil into the breather box and letting washout gunk mix with the engine oil.
"pour some engine flush into the top of the breather box before performing an oil change?"
It probably won't unclog the breather box. If the breather is blocked it has to be removed and cleaned or replaced with a Volvo OE part.
"Could the blocked breather cause the symptoms I described at the top of the thread?" I don't think so.
Do the jiggle test in the FAQ. I just take the oil cap off and check for a puff and suck with my gloved hand over the fill hole, cold engine. You can try breathing the crankcase by driving with the dipstick out. You should feel crankcase-power-stroke-piston-bypass-gas pressure there.
You have something else going on. Follow Steve's advice and look for that hole in the turbo hose. Pull the codes, but with the problems your having you might get useless codes. Post them though.
Tom
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"I haven't pulled the codes yet as I don't have any facility for that. "
Yes, you do. ODBI box with the attached probe. Instructions in the FAQ's.
"I was wondering if this could be caused by a blocked breather?"
Based on of the scope of the oil lose you described in this post (verses the original), maybe? Have you checked the flame trap and associated hoses to see if they are blocked?
"The revs do not change if I remove the oil filler cap. "
OK...is that as test of something?
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Thanks Javalion for pushing me to get the codes, they are as follows:
1-1-3, 1-2-1, 3-2-2.
I am fairly certain nobody has let loose with an axe on the wiring so I am guessing that the sensors are alerting me to a mechanical problem and the hose from the turbo to the intercooler is feeling rather soft so as suggested that will be the next thing I look at. I have had it off a few time recently to inspect and clean the turbo. I am fearing the turbo oil seals may be on the way out although there is some suggestion the blocked breather may be at least partly to blame for the fauling.
Recently I had to replace all the seals on the front of the engine.
The auxilary shaft seal in fact fell out! the crank and cam seals started weeping :(
I must also confess that I ran the engine for about 30 miles without the breather box vacuum hose connected to a vacuum which is when my problems started.
Yes my 20 year old Volvo owns me at the moment so it is up for sale in the near future:(
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I think either your AMM is bad or the wiring from the AMM to the computer is broken. My car was doing the same thing two winters ago and it stunk horribly of gasoline while running. I had 3 wires from my AMM cut and I think it probably came of the assembly line that way. Immediately after fixing the wires the motor ran perfectly and has been running fine ever since then.
Somewhere on this site or on the web are instructions on how to test your AMM out of the car. If the AMM is working then you can make sure the wires actually reach the computer. It is highly unlikely that your wires will be cut like mine, but the wires were broken behind the driver’s side strut tower.
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Check the turbo hose and other possible leaks. There may be a couple things going on.
1-1-3 test the O2 sensor.
I cannot help to much with the codes below but it may be the reason your engine is running the way it is.
1-2-1 Fault in FI control unit. Bad FI control unit.
3-2-2 AMM wire burn-off signal absent or faulty. Bad AMM or FI control unit
121 and 322 could be from a bad ECU or just a corroded connection at the AMM or ECU. Unplug and check. There should be a light coating of dielectric grease at the connections. Now that you tested socket 2 how about the ignition system in socket 6?
"Recently I had to replace all the seals on the front of the engine.
The auxilary shaft seal in fact fell out! the crank and cam seals started weeping"
Clogged breathing system for sure.
"ran the engine for about 30 miles without the breather box vacuum hose connected to a vacuum"
I don't this would cause any problem.
Tom
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After reading the FAQ on the breather on the turbo I poured some engine flush in the breather and as expected it took a few seconds before it started to flow. When I started the engine imediately the idle came back to normal.
I reset the computer and there are no more complaints from it.
After I change the oil tonight I have no doubts the car will be back to boostly greatness :)
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The engine was fine whilst it was idling with the flush in it.
As soon as I drove the car with the new oil in it all the same symptoms were back and the same codes.
Perhaps the flush only partially cleared the blockage and the extra load of driving the car caused it to block up again?
I did try cutting the last inch off the pipe that goes to the turbo in case it was leaking around the clamp, but that didn't help.
I will replace this hose asap.
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"all the same symptoms were back and the same codes"
These are probably more than just sympathetic codes and a can of something won't fix it. Like I said, clean the contacts coat with dielectric grease and this is almost free. Keep your fingers crossed. O2 sensor, test or replace it. Get the breather system fixed. How much oil did you drain from the intercooler?
Tom
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I've had another go at trying to clean the breather.
A dear mate suggested pouring some diesel through it so I poured 3 litres about ten times through the breather which promptly flowed to the catch tray below the sump plug. Each time there was a tray full of black gritty crap to wipe up.
I'm now convinced the breather is at least not too blocked so there is now probably a remaining sensor fault or as also suggested a hose fault.
As I replaced all the vacuum hoses when I bought the car three years ago I would like to think is it not one of them.
I will read the FAQ on how to test all the sensors.
Thanks for all your input guys.
I reset the computer again today and the car idled nicely around 800 rpm and the Lambda light did not come on until I restarted and drove the car as per a few days ago when I changed the oil then all the fauklt symptoms returned:(
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It's frustrating when the problem seems fixed, then it's back!
If money was spent for new engine seals, then definitely spend money for a *new* oil trap. I'm not a fan of cleaning old ones out.
Many oil leaks are fixed when PCV system is tuned-up.
Also, check outlet on manifold and tiny hose that connects into main PCV hose.
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I own a Volvo or Does Volvo Own Me? Try the easy to search Expanded Style FAQ Index http://40mph.com/Brickboard_700-900_FAQ_Expanded_Index_Version/
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You need to remove ALL the intake hoses and inspect them internally. They can look fine visually when in place but, over time, oil settles in the bottom of the hoses and rots them. The top of the hose looks & feels fine but there is a small spongy area underneath the hose (usually nearest the inter-cooler junction) where it cannot be seen and may not be easily felt. If you do not know what to look for, it is easily missed. Remove the hose and it is obvious on the inside surface.
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1999 E320-200K 1994 F150 (awaiting a new engine) 1989 560 SL-180K 1994 945T (daughter's)-312K 1986 242Ti (awaiting a B230FT transplant) 1968 GT500KR (under slow restoration) 2007 HD Nightster (son's ride)
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