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Bentley manual compression check procedure 200 1986

Hello, I had problem starting the car and replaced Air Mass Meter with rebuilt one I got from Ebay for $40 a while ago. The car starts fine but idles poorly until warms up. I tried to adjust the AMM while it was idling but it did not help.

When I bought a car ~3 years ago I put in the cheapest spark plugs and did not replace them since then. I bought Bosch 4510 Ir plugs and want to put them in and do compression test while at it.

I looked in Bentley manual for 240 and I saw that they recommend to loosen the plugs by one turn and start the engine to blow off the carbon deposits from the threads before doing compression test, so the carbon deposits would not get under the valve seats and affect the readings. I never heard of such practice before. I would think it can damage the threads... Is anyone doing it like this ?

Thanks for advice,
Serge








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    Bentley manual compression check procedure 200 1986

    Never heard of that before. It may be that we are a younger set of drivers with the newer engines and oils. The use of non-detergent oil and leaded gas went the way of gobs of sludge I cleaned out of engines of the early sixties!

    These newer engines have better fuel management and should never carbon up that badly in the first place.
    Besides, if yor car did that those emissions testers, or those "EPA" signal chiefs, would be all over that like fresh "smoke" over a campfire, reporting you to the state!

    As last I remember the threads retreat out of the combustion chamber so there is no "blowing off" the threads.

    So the only place the color of carbon soot can get attached to the plug is on the under cut diameter in front of and at the base of the threads.
    It has always appeared as clean or cleaner as the face diameter when I removed them. No sign of cleaner specks being uncovered on it.

    There is a lot of piston surface area and combustion head surface area to catch a minuscule particle when compared to the suface area of the sealing angles on the two valves. The valves are even smaller on three and four valve engines so how much more area is there really to catch on too, is a guess from this ole' boy!

    I have read though, that you should open the throttle all the way so it can get more air in there to compress. Maybe that is the standard specification for some manufactures but I do not see it in all books.

    I wonder if it makes that much difference. Because when I start my engine I leave the throttle closed and it gets what air it gets. All those cylinders have to suck as good as they get, IMHO.
    I would want to know the compression readings under those conditions, wouldn't you?

    Should they not work morning or night or would high noon be better? I want those readings either or both ways. I spin the engine for about three chugs minimum and I have never read how many is good or a standard!
    The engine should be cool to remove the spark plugs from a aluminum! That is a standard I read a lot!
    My grippers like it better too!

    Oh well, came with a nickle and left two cents and someone will probably give me some change back! (:-)

    Phil








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    Bentley manual compression check procedure 200 1986

    i never have, sounds a little far fetched but i dont think it would hurt the
    threads if you dont let it run, just turn it over

    and ive never had good luck with bosch plugs oem plugs are cheaper and
    seem to me at least, better







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