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Used heater valve? 444-544

posted by  Olliew72 on  Mon Jan 7 10:52 CST 2013
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last visit: Thu Apr 17 14:27 CST 2014
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Hey all,

My heater valve is leaking on to my feet. I took it out and it doesn't appear to be functioning as it should. I went to price out a new one and wow, $180!

Anyone have a good used unit they'd like to sell?

Thanks,
Chris
63 PV544








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    Used heater valve? 444-544

    posted by  walrus3 on  Tue Jan 8 10:51 CST 2013
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    last visit: Mon Dec 2 14:20 CST 2013
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    You may find it beneficial to go to your local NAPA or other large parts store (older is better)
    and ask to look at their old heater valve catalogs.
    I got a vacuum operated one for my 145E (a ONE-YEAR application!) made out of plastic for about $14.
    They had a lot of different kinds and you may be able to find one that will sorta fit
    and work OK. Most of them were cable and thermally controlled.
    --
    George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma








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    Used heater valve? 444-544

    posted by  Ron Kwas on  Mon Jan 7 16:11 CST 2013
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    Chris;

    That is a lot for a new valve, but probably not out of line...keep in mind that it is likely leaking because of deterioration of the rubber assembly seal, so the rubber on any "good used valve" you get will likely be in a similar condition...that is, old and heavily oxidized and maybe ready to fail tomorrow...

    I recently put together an article on this subject...see: http://www.sw-em.com/Heater_Control_Valve.htm

    You may want to consider removing it and sending it off to Mr Tucker for rebuilding for about half that (no interest!). I have not yet performed the leak-down tests on the sample valve he rebuilt for me, but I'm happy with the way it looked and all the answers he gave to my questions!

    Cheers








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      I did this and it worked 444-544

      posted by  Danny on  Mon Jan 7 16:29 CST 2013
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      last visit: Mon Oct 6 22:01 CST 2014
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      Tedious, but otherwise a satisfying end result. You gotta buy the rubber parts from NAPA for $10, but that's the worst of it.

      Just disassemble WITH CARE so that you don't bust the swaged metal tabs, and conversely don't fatigue them so that they don't break upon re-assambly.








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        I did this and it worked 444-544

        posted by  Olliew72 on  Mon Jan 7 16:58 CST 2013
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        last visit: Thu Apr 17 14:27 CST 2014
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        Thanks for the reply guys.

        Being cheap, and a tinkerer, I started taking it apart last night. I'll look for the write up on how to replace the rubber.

        I do have a question. I put the copper probe in some boiling water so I could try and determine what occurs internally, but I don't see anything moving with the added heat?

        Can someone tell me how to test if the thing will function before I go through the work to rebuild it?

        Chris








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          I did this and it worked 444-544

          uid 4846's pic
          posted by  JohnMc on  Tue Jan 8 14:31 CST 2013
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          last visit: Thu Oct 23 07:42 CST 2014
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          The thermostatic function may be kaput, but the slightly more crude 'on/off' cable actuation probably works just fine, and it's probably what most of us have these days anyhow, leaking or not.
          --
          '63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)







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