I have a 1996 Volvo 960 Wagon that runs pretty good. I have an oil leak somewhere, but can't seem to locate it. After reading several sites, I decided to check the Oil Trap for a clog. I remove the Flame Trap, but it was not clogged, but I cleaned it anyhow.

One of the sites said that I should have a vacuum on the larger hose connected to the Flame Trap, but when I checked it there was not a vacuum, but there was air blowing out of the hose.

Does this mean that the Oil Trap/Breather Box is clogged? I have seen it called all of these on the internet, but here is what it is http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/31235/Oil-Trap-9135643/?diagramId=2016&diagramNumber=1 on the EEUROPARTS web site.

A mechanic said it would cost $300 in labor alone, but he said I would need to make sure I provided all of the hoses and seals. Can someone give me a list of all the parts that need to have this replaced? Is this a good price for having this replaced?

I thought about doing the work myself, but I am not sure it is something I want to get into, because it involves removing the intake manifold.

Any information you can give me would be apreciated.

Is this a turbo car?

Either way, find a different mechanic because he wants you to provide the parts. That is warning flag for several reasons, including he will not warranty the parts he installs if something goes wrong, and a weak commitment for his work, and he doesn't know Volvos. . For $300 or so the parts should be included.

What city/town are you in? Someone would probably give mechanic recommendations if we knew.

Search BB for more advice and see FAQ. Use this index for easier searching: http://40mph.com/Brickboard_700-900_FAQ_Expanded_Index_Version/ The links on that page all go back to Brickboard.com

Re-reading your post, I am confused because you said you removed oil trap and then you want mechanic to replace it?

Are the hoses connected to flame trap clear? Blowing air is good but it doesn't mean the oil trap is clean enough to allow oil to drip back into engine. The engine is always blowing out oil soaked air and the oil trap filters out the oil. If the oil can't filter out then the pressure builds up. I would assume your trap should be replaced.

Yes, The part shown in link is oil trap, great price too.

This is not a Turbo. I removed the Flame Trap, which was very simple, since it was located near the intake at the top of the engine. The Oil Trap is located below the intake manifold, so it would need to be removed to get to the oil trap.

i have to assume that the hose from Oil Trap are clear, because there is air blowing out. I would not think that air should be blowing out, because this is the intake side, which means it should be sucking air through the intake/air filter.

I told the mechanic that I would supply the parts, because I wanted to make sure he was installing quality parts. I have heard that some of the aftermarket oil traps have a history of cracking. When I told the mechanic this, he said to make sure I purchased all of the hoses and seals also.

I live just north of Charlotte, NC, so if you know of a good Volvo mechanic in this area, then please let me know.

Oops, I totally overlooked you were describing two different parts! You probably find my advice suspect now!

So the only other part you'll need a O-ring for flame trap in addition, eeuroparts should have it too. and see "Engine: Seals, Belts, Crankcase Ventilation" on my version of FAQ: http://40mph.com/Brickboard_700-900_FAQ_Expanded_Index_Version/

They have the PCV hose too.

However, you might as well have mechanic replace your ECT while the intake is off. ECT sensor is next to oil trap. Replace gasket for intake too.

Does your car have an EGR valve? The oil trap/breather box and flame trap may be clear, but the EGR valve may be clogged causing excessive crankcase pressure on your engine's seals.

In addition to the breather box, flame trap and EGR valve make sure all the connecting hoses (including vacuum) are clear and functioning.

The engine in your car is similar to the engine in my 855. Except you have one more cylinder...:) I have a few thoughts that might help:

One, with your car idling pull the dipstick and look for smoke. If it smokes you have a clog somewhere. My car smokes a little and I have determined it is the EGR valve that is clogged not the one of the 2 traps.

Two, I have a minor leak at the rear camshaft seal. I'm sure this has been caused by the clogged EGR. Besides your RMS check out your camshaft seals too. Where exactly is your car leaking?

Three, if you prefer not to remove your intake manifold you could try AutoRX instead. It does a good job cleaning the breather box and hoses. Unfortunately, didn't help my EGR valve. At least it isn't necessary to remove the intake to clean that. Me, I'll be diving in there as soon as the weather warms up again...

P.S. If you end up buying the oil trap make sure you also buy all the vacuum hoses that are under the intake manifold. Called a vacuum tree on the 850's. Don't know about 960's. Buy a new o-ring for the breather box too. BTW - Throw away the flame trap screen if you haven't done so already.

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95 855 GLT Sportwagon 214k, sold - 90 244 DL 300k

Hiya Uncle mtj8617,

When the engine runs, it always produces positive crankcase pressure at the crankcase breather box output to the flame trap on the intake system.

The positive crankcase pressure builds, as you know, from cylinder ignition compression that passes the piston rings into the oil sump spaces. How much positive pressure is relative.

If you use mineral oil, the PCV system flame trap (or sieve) can clog. Rarely such problems with synthetic oils like Mobile 1.

What's important is a sealed intake system. You can disassemble the PCV system down to the block mounted breather box. The oil breather box is at least more robust than that used on the B19/21/23/230/and so on engines. The breather box is plastic (ABS, I think) may be brittle and may fail on removal. You've found a new breather box.

The vacuum lines can become brittle at the connected ends. You may want to replace brittle vacuum line with the type used in PCV (constant hydrocarbon exposure).

You can use heat resistant plastic zip tie straps or small hose clamps to secure the vacuum line ends.

Anyhoo, Volvo Mechanics in the Huntersville/Charlotte NC area:

Please see http://www.volvomechanics.com/.

Specifically:
http://www.volvomechanics.com/volvoshops/north-carolina/

You have at least a half-dozen.

I'd also suggest verifying the repair facility with the BBB and web search. Maybe try and dig up some anecdotal info from other Swedish RWD Metal Head, and that ain't Saab.

Questions?

Kitties?

Fuzzy kitties?

Extra fuzzy kitties?

Ultra extra massively sour sourdough bread? And a wedge of good Stilton?

And maybe ultra fuzzy kitties. Kitties LOVE cheese.

Kitties also make excellent chauffeurs like Tunces, the cat who could drive a car (from Saturday Night Live).

cheers,

Dud
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Cats like cheese. Than cats make smells like cutting the cheese.

I'm not sure if this is worth saving $40 on a part, but I have cleasned these "breather boxes" on my 240's before. After they are removed from the car, I saw/cut them open along the seam with my band saw. Clean up the insides, and then JB-Weld the two pieces back topgether. Never an issue. I use the regular JB-Weld, not the fast cure. I wait 24 hours for the JB-Weld to fully cure, then re-install.

$300. seems high to do this job. That over 3 hours of labor. I'm not sure it takes that long. I rebuilt my 1998 S90 (B6304 engine) so I have some background in this.

It may be that you mechanic is not familiar with this car and the work involved. Find a mechanic that works on Volvo's excusively. He may be padding the price due to his unfamilarity with this engine.

Not sure why hoses need to be replaced. Just clean them if they are not cracked.



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