Hi guys, I have an American '73 164, fuel injected, B30F engine, with the auto.

I bought it without keys--that is, there were no keys for the car. I dealt with my local Volvo guy, and he went through Volvo, and found out that I can't get VIN-matched keys cut any more. So, I bought a couple blanks, and found a local guy that can cut the keys to match the cylinder, for about $60.

My question is--Do the door locks have all the same notches as the ignition lock? It would be quite a lot of work to remove the ignition lock, right? My understanding is that I need to drill out a few bolts--and I won't easily find replacements.

Thanks

sorry to tell you this --but a '73 will have a different key altogether for the door locks and glove box then the ignition key. I've never removed an ign. lock from a '73 and up Volvo--but the older ones with the straight ribbon speedo required using a hack saw blade to cut a slot in the two flat "breakaway" screws supporting the steering column/lock assembly so a screwdriver can be used to unscrew them--drilling them out was not necessary. I think the single key for doors and ign started in '77 or '78 240 series. -- Dave

Thanks for the information on door locks being different than the Ignition. The car is a '73. It seems my option is to remove the ignition lock in the way you've mentioned, and remove the door lock as well, having 2 different keys impressioned and cut for each lock.

As others have said, my '71 has a small key (like for a padlock) for the doors/trunk/glove box and a long key with curved tip for the ignition. The car came with a non-lockable fuel filler cap. My dad bought it in South Africa so in the mid 1970's when there were riots he bought a lockable chrome cap, which has yet another key (long skinny one).

I know the door key is the least of your worries to get one cut, but you can also spend about the same amount on a DIY central locking kit. I'd also be tempted to remove the ignition lock and fit a start button. If you get a good quality rolling code alarm system (i.e. nearly impossible to hack) or an RFID tag then you do not need a steering lock.

Thank you so much for the information. I would absolutely be comfortable fitting a start button. As far as taking the steering lock off, am I even able to remove the steering lock, considering the steering column is already locked? My diagram in my service manual shows a pin or "deadbolt" that goes into something?

The door locks are different from the ignition lock.
It is easy enough to take out a door lock. Probably the easiest one would be the trunk lock.
You don't say what year yours is - they changed between 1972 and 1973.
The 72 and earlier ones are simpler and more compact to work with.
You don't need to drill the bolts out. You can probably use a Dremel Moto-Tool with #409
abrasive disks and slot the ends of the bolts and remove them with a big screwdriver.
If that doesn't seem secure enough on reassembly you could replace them with allen bolts.
The ignition switch removes easily from the lock so you could just take the lock to
the locksmith without the wiring.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma