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Hello to all and hope that someone can help me. I know this is long, but I'm at wits end! I changed the water pump on my '92 940 turbo, put it all together and no start!? Now she just cranks with no ignition. Started just fine before the water pump change and can't believe the change of a water pump led to this...anyhow, I went ahead pulled the upper timing belt cover off again to verify the timing marks...how it would have changed by changing the water pump I don't know but figured what the heck. With the timing mark lined up on the balancer to the mark on the lower cover, the camshaft gear mark was lined up with the 12 o'clock mark on the inside of the timing belt cover so we're good there. It was time for a tune up so I went ahead and changed the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires since I had them already still no start so went back to troubleshooting. I checked the coil and between terminals 1 & 15 read .7 ohms, between 1 and the high-tension terminal read 7.82 k-ohms. Disconnected the fuel line to the fuel rail with fuse 11 removed and cranked the engine to verify operation of the main fuel pump and had plenty of fuel. Disconnected the Crankshaft positioning sensor at the connector on the firewall and read between pins 1 & 2 and got 176 ohms, the book says it should be between 200 - 500 ohms, but research of others who took readings were in the range of 160 - 200 with new units, so I'm assuming (hate that word) mine is okay. I then checked each fuel injector for voltage and got 12 volts at each. Okay, so that was all the book stuff, then I did the old school checks; easy spark test by pulling each spark plug keeping it connected to the distributor wire and grounding the threads and had spark at the electrodes on all 4 plugs. While the plugs were out, I had a friend crank the engine and held my finger over each hole and had fuel...also, while the plugs were out, I pulled the fuel pump fuses and did a compression check on each cylinder with the following results: #1 cylinder 110 PSI, #2 100, #3 108 and #4 105. So, got spark, got fuel, got air, got compression...no start! what the hell am I missing???
Okay, so now it is 5-days later. I was starting to think that it may be the Ignition Power stage amplifier, thinking that even though I had spark, it may not be “hot enough.” But as a double check I got my hands on a timing light, cranked the engine on each wire and the light pulsated with each, so I'm assuming (there's that word again) that I'm okay on spark? So here we go again, triple checking, I pulled fuse #11 so I was only using the main fuel pump, disconnected the fuel line to the fuel rail and cranked the engine; I got 20 ounces of fuel in 10 seconds so I got fuel. Checked the injectors once again and had 12 volts on one terminal on each and was getting between 230 - 270 millivolts on the other terminal, is that normal? I then checked the red lead on the Auxiliary Suppression Relay and had 12V. I then checked the gray wire from the Suppression Relay and had 12V, then I checked the gray wire at the Ballast Resistor and had 12V as well as 12V on each of the 4 green wires coming from it. I'm at a loss here. When my wife gets home from work I'm going to have her crank the engine for me while I see if I can tell if the injectors are operating (clicking?)...Although last week when I had the plugs out and with my finger over the spark plug hole my finger was getting wet with gas...and you could see a "mist" of fuel as well blowing out from all the plug holes. While I have my trusty assistant for cranking I'll also hold the timing light on the timing marks while she's cranking to see what I got...other than that I'm stumped. Unless anyone has any enlightening suggestions I may have to break down and bring it to a shop...I can't believe I just said that...
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Sorry to all for not responding lately, but I've been traveling for business...will hit the troubleshooting again soon...and my CPS and amplifier should be waiting for me when I get home. Before I left I cleaned all connections I could get my hands on with no joy...
Thanks again...Charlie
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Please keep us posted, we are all curious about this mystery, and pulling for you!
It is good to step back, take a break. and think about a problem such as this... may be something really simple you have overlooked.
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Thanks tedv. I stepped back, but apparently not far enough! Update. I went ahead and cleaned every contact I could get my hands on. Replaced the Crank Positioning Sensor; no joy. installed a new Power Stage Amplifier...got a bad one delivered. when I put it in I no longer had spark to the plugs and checked with a timing light on each wire. So, I put the old one back in and had spark and also pulsing on each wire with the timing light. Went further and tested between ground and the red-white wire (removed from terminal 1 on the coil) with my volt meter on AC and got .46 volts AC while cranking. according to "Diagnosing No-Starts on Some 740/940 Volvo's" if you get V> 0.30 VAC between Red-White lead and ground you are good...so, my ).46 VAC tells me I'm good. The new amplifier only had 0.025 VAC. Checked the injectors with a noid light and am good with Pulsing signals to the injectors. Checked fuel at the rail again with fuse 11 out (to check the main fuel pump) and am getting plenty of fuel. Pulled the plugs (again) and they are wet after start attempts...yes, all this a result of changing a water pump!
I'm at the point where I'm heading out to pull the timing belt covers and making sure the lower marks line up and that something strange didn't magically happen. again, when I line up the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley to the mark on the lower cover the upper camshaft gear mark lines up with the mark the inside of the upper part of the cover. I don't think I'm going to find anything off...but I cannot think of anything else!
I am at wits end with this problem. If anyone has any suggestions, no matter how off the wall please shout out, I'm open for anything! If all the timing marks line up who knows what is up...
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Okay so I pulled the upper timing belt cover off again and noticed the belt much loser than it was before. I brought #1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and the timing marks for the camshaft gear is off! The belt is so lose now I can easily twist it to look at the surface of the teeth and if I got halfway aggressive could probably slide the belt off.! I suspect the belt tensioner is the culprit? The last three timing belts I had installed I brought it to a shop and do not recall them ever changing the tensioner...the car now has just under 200K miles. The belt itself is in good shape, but will change it anyway. The only reason I can think of the change is I've been cranking it so much that it has loosened more as I progressed through troubleshooting...who knows.
So, it must have been coincidence that this happened when I changed the water pump because in no way did I touch anything related to the timing belt other than taking off the upper cover to remove the one water pump bolt that you have to remove the cover for to access...good lord!
Anyhow, tomorrow I will run out and pick up some cotton line to use the "rope trick" to get the crankshaft pulley bolt lose and then take a look at the lower end of business.
Can anyone recommend a good company to order the belt/tensioner through? I'd like to use a belt with the marks and want a quality belt. I looked on Volvo World, but they don't state who the manufacturer of the belt or tensioner is and I don't want to do this again!
I would attach a couple of pic's of my findings this evening, but I cannot figure out how to attach to this post. I think it was "Will740Turbo" who said it may have jumped a few teeth...looks like it was more than a few and you were right my friend...
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I finally figured out how to upload pics Here is one showing how far off the mark it is. Belt and tensioner should be here tomorrow...then carve some time out to do the job.
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Here's another showing how slack the belt is. Thanks again to all for your input...next update will hopefully be a pic of the old girl going down the road!
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Weird; the first one does not show, the second one didn't show, I clicked again and it did show, then I went somewhere else and came back, and it doesn't show again.
Anyway, Conti sells a kit with belt and tensioner.
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I was having the same problem...thought I was doing something wrong. I received the parts...ordered them from Parts Geek, name brand parts for reasonable prices...anyhow, I'll carve some time out this weekend and will let all know how it worked out.
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rockauto sells goodyear belts-gatorback with tensioner. To post a pic via the brickboard gallery. Upload your picture. When you start a message, look at the bottom and click on "image library (upload/select) that will take you to the gallery. When you find your pic you want to post just click on it, the url will be loaded automatically and you'll be taken back to finish your message.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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When you are cleaning contacts you are getting desperate. I was there, had spark, fuel and no start. Tested and replaced what I could. I got a Desperation Brand compression tester and my compression was 0-0-0-0. #1 cam lobes were not both upwards at TDC. It turned out to be a broken cam gear indexing pin. I could turn the cam just fine when hand cranking the crank bolt but every time I would try to start the car the jarring of the starter would slightly rotate the cam gear.
Possible scenario for a low compression. If the timing is off due to a broken cam pin, in every cylinder at the beginning of the compression stroke, the intake valves are not yet fully closed resulting 100PSI vs. 135. The same thing would happen if the cam pulley timing was off more than a few teeth.
I also like the clogged cat aleekat mentioned. Supposedly it only takes a fairly mild bump to hear a rattle if it is bad.
Check the spark plugs wires again. FAQ:
Rear distributor: Left-to-right terminals are 4-3-1-2
Plugs: Front-of-engine-to-back: 1-2-3-4
Tom
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"So, got spark, got fuel, got air, got compression...no start!"
Only two other things I can think of. 1)Spark is not at the right time. I would put your timing light on #1 and crank it over. Shoot the timing light at the crankpulley/cover marks. You should see strobing at approx 12BTDC. If not, then it may have jumped time.
2. I had a similar no start. My exhaust was clogged because my cat blew it guts out the exhaust pipe and plugged it completely up. Found mine when I had a friend spray some starting fluid and he said it didn't look like the throttle was sucking the spray in.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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Okay so here's where I'm at folks. First thank you, thank you, thank you, for all of the responses and suggestions. I went ahead and ordered a new ignition power stage amplifier and crankshaft positioning sensor. I figured after 20-years she deserves new...I've been leaning towards this anyhow and many suggested the amplifier...
while I wait for delivery of the parts I am disconnecting the ground, battery, and any other connection I can get my hands on to ensure they are clean and tight...I will then put a bit of oil down each cylinder remove fuel delivery fuses and take new compression readings.
Then I'll put in the new parts when they get here and the old gal will fire right up and I'll open that 24-year old bottle of GlennFittich I've been saving for a special occasion!
If she doesn't fire up I guess I'll get more intrusive and replace the timing belt...at least remove the upper AND lower covers and check alignment of the marks on the gears.
I'll get back to everyone...thanks again and if you think of anything else shout it out!
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It's easy to check the position of the timing belt. Going to the cost and time of changing it, when you don't know what is actually going on with the car, seems... not productive.
It appears there is gas in the cyl, so that leaves compression and spark. Post the comp numbers. If they're acceptable, which I'd say is even and over 125, then you have to find the cause of no spark. Is there current
to the coil?
From the coil?
To the plugs, All of them?
At the plug tips, All of them?
This is not hard to do.
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Did you disconnect the battery when you did the change?
One problem that I had on our '90 turbo was a bad ground in the left front fender - the car would die when I turned the high beams on.
I found corrosion under the power stage, a dirty ground on the frame of the anti-lock brake assembly and corrosion in the two small wires attached to the positive terminal of the battery.
If the insulation near either battery terminal looks swollen, it may conceal corrosion - when I pulled one of the small wires, it came loose -- I stripped back the three wires, cleaned the corrosion, and re-soldered all three wires. I filled them with solder about 3/4 of an inch. This moved the flex point back from its original position near the terminal.
The computer on my '90 744 TI gave me no warning when it failed.
The only thing that gives me some pause was the fact that I had a battery charger on the battery while I was trouble shooting, I had never done that before, Although, nothing else was found to be bad after the computer was changed - thus I think that the battery charger was not the problem.
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'96 855R,'64 PV544 driver, '67 P1800 basket case, '72 Yamaha Rd400, '68 Honda 350-4, '12 XC70, the first 5 are mine, heh, heh, 525,000 miles put on 10 bricks James A Sousa
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I have not checked under the power stage, but will do so. I did not disconnect the battery when I changed the water pump, but since I have checked the battery connections and they are good. I am disconnecting the negative battery cable while I have the charger on to boot.
No problem with lights coming on, cranking, windows go up and down, etc...so the battery is good
I just went and got a noid and am getting the pulse signal to each of the injectors. I pulled the plugs (again) and they are getting wet so I'm thinking the spark isn't strong enough to the plugs...leaning towards the power stage, but will probably get a Crank Position Sensor while I"m at it. Both are original so it won't hurt to change them.
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Under the power stage is clean as a whistle...this car has been garage kept it's whole life so it is really like new and clean...
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use a multimeter set to 200ohms and measure between pin 1 and 2
ie: the middle pin and one other
if you measure in the 160's or better save your money.
you could try having someone jiggle the cps wire as you start the engine.
measure is more definitive
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I did measure on the CPS installed (175 ohms) and the "used but good" one I have (168 ohms) and tried both installed; both measured OK from what I have read...I also jiggled, pushed, and cleaned the connections...no joy.
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if you have spark and fuel and your injectors are pulsing, your cps is good the only thing left is incorrect timing which will account for a no start with fuel and spark.
a bad ecu occurs but it is hardly a common happening in a 940 turbo
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The only time my 93 940 turbo left me stranded in its almost 300k mile history was when the power stage quit with no warning. Died about 20 seconds before I was to negotiate a very dangerous merge onto the highway - so I'm grateful to it for not giving up the ghost 20 seconds later!
I had a frustrating next couple of days after the tow home trying to diagnose it, swapping out the crankshaft sensor to no avail. I ended up taking it to my local garage, where the tech there was also stumped. He replaced the coil, checked all the wiring, fuel, spark, etc. After doing some research on this board I discovered it was a known failure item, and suggested to the tech that he try putting in a new one. Bingo!
Since you've mentioned in your previous posts checking just about everything except the power stage, including swapping out the crank sensor, as I did - I'd suggest trying this too. If yours is the original it's almost 20 years old and it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a spare one on hand anyway, even if it turns out not to be the problem. Both of my cars have a spare crank sensor and power stage in the trunk, just in case - since I've encountered problems with both. Cheap insurance: my one regret with my own power stage experience was that I was charged $250 for replacing a part that you can pick up for $30 (albeit not the original Bosch) at Volvoworld. If I'd had one in my trunk then, I'd have been happily on my way and $220 richer!
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remove a spark plug..........is it wet or dry?
if its dry either the radio interference relay is bad or the cps is bad
if its wet look more closely at cap, rotor, power stage
this analysis presumes you have verified spec working fuel pressure
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trichard, thanks for the reply, here are the answers to your questions:
Wet; I checked the radio interference relay (I believe some are calling this the Auxiliary Suppresion Relay?) and I have 12v at the red wire and gray (with key in the on position)...also have 12v at the ballast resistor on the gray wire and each green wire and 12v at each injector. I also checked for fuel volume, I disconnected the fuel line from the fuel injection rail and captured 20 ounces of fuel in 10 seconds of cranking. I do not have a fuel pressure gauge that I can check pressure. I did this with fuse 11 disconnected to make sure the main pump was working and not only the tank pump.
I replaced the cap, rotor, wires and plugs when this problem first began as I had the parts and was going to tune her up anyhow. ,
I have been leaning towards the Crank Positioning Sensor and Power Stage Amplifier...I guess I should just buy them and see what happens eh?
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I'm with Trichard. Being the "part swapper" type, I'd swap the RSR first, the Fuel pump relay next. If you have a spare computer swap that. Have you tried a couple shots of starting fluid in the intake? Checked for codes? Used the OBD1 to test the various components? Take a good sniff of the end of the exhaust, does it reek of gas?
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I do not have a spare computer...I have tried a shot or two of starting fluid with no joy...getting plenty of gas...
I don't have any means of checking codes...I believe they show on the original radio? But I have long changed it to a CD Player.
Haven't "sniffed" the exhaust yet...but at this point I could use a good buzz and will do so!
I have to thank everyone for their ideas...the responses have been tremendous!
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See the FAQ's for checking OBD1 codes. You do have a small black box on the drivers side under hood. You may very well have codes stored, and they may be pertinent. You are down to spark or timing as the culprits IMHO.
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Do you have the old cap and rotor to try?
Also, I'd get a noid light($5-10) to check that the fuel injectors are firing. If the 92 still has an aux fan with a relay, I'd swap it out for the RSR.
Since it happened *exactly* when made these changes, and with no warning, I'd strongly suspect that it's related to what you just did, not another issue suddenly getting worse.
A few years ago, I replaced a flakey cluster voltage regulator for the gas gauge and temp sensor in my 240. I reconnected the *wrong* wire to the tach, and drove the car about 250 miles, then around town a bit. It stalled at a stop sign and would not start up. 50 red herrings later, and I switched that tach wire back to the right one and it started right up.
Did you do any other repairs, even if it was just cleaning the battery contacts or something?
Good Luck
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I just went and got a noid and am getting the pulse signal to each of the injectors. I pulled the plugs (again) and they are getting wet so I'm thinking the spark isn't strong enough to the plugs...leaning towards the power stage, but will probably get a Crank Position Sensor while I"m at it. Both are original so it won't hurt to change them
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I do have the old cap and rotor, but didn't change it until after the problem started.
I will get a noid light, but I am getting fuel to the cylinders. While a friend was cranking the engine fuel mist was blowing out of the spark plug holes...with my finger over the hole it would condense on my finger.
I thought it was related to what I did too. I've double checked everything even removed the upper timing belt cover to ensure the timing belt was okay...see my initial post for details. This was a simple water pump change...remove belts, remove upper pulley, remove upper timing belt cover, take out six nuts/bolts from water pump, clean gasket surface and reversed process for installation, get in the car to start it up and she just cranks with no start.
I did no other repairs.
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Ok... Hmmm. I'm having a hard time figuring out what else to look at.
This post is *EDITED* because I read more and newer responses.
I see you did try starting fluid. I was recommending some, since I don't know what else has been changed since, but maybe it's unnecessary.
You listed compression values of 100-110 psi. That's low. For a turbo car, normal ranges are 140-155, for NA they're more like 165-180. I know you checked the timing marks on the cam sprocket and on the crank pulley.
Is there a chance that the timing is off a tooth or three? I don't recall you saying you touched anything relating to mechanical timing, but I wonder if something coincidentally happened with your valve timing. Maybe the belt slipped a couple teeth or something like that, and maybe the timing appears to be correct on the crankshaft because the harmonic balancer is separating.
If you have spark enough to see, and you have fuel enough to feel on a fingertip (I wonder if your fingers were or weren't getting blown off the spark plug hole), and you have compression, then I don't see how the engine could not be at least coughing.
If the compression numbers you posted are accurate, they are low.
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thanks for the response Will740Turbo...the only thing I could find on the compression values was they had to be within 75% of each other...thought they were low too, but couldn't find what they should be. I will take them again after putting a little oil in each cylinder. I had checked compression after several start attempts so I'm sure the cylinders were nice and "clean" from all the gas.
my fingers were getting blown off the plug holes...i was not sealing them off when checking for fuel moisture/mist...I don't see how the engine isn't at least coughing either.
can't imagine the belt skips a few teeth...it's on nice and tight like it should be...but who knows...
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I had a similar experience with Evander our '90 744 TI - I left a battery charger on my battery while I did various things to troubleshoot a no start problem.
Sad ending to this tale - the computer was gone!
Went to pick and pull - they had plenty of computers for NAs - no used ones for turbos - too many of them had failed.
$750 later, Evander ran like a top.
I hope you have better luck than I.
BTW - from my experience, the most likely suspect is the crankshaft position sensor, I put two used ones and a new one in Evander over 11 years.
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'96 855R,'64 PV544 driver, '67 P1800 basket case, '72 Yamaha Rd400, '68 Honda 350-4, '12 XC70, the first 5 are mine, heh, heh, 525,000 miles put on 10 bricks James A Sousa
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Thanks for responding James. Did your computer just suddenly die, or did it start acting up not starting intermittently? I litterally started the car, pulled it in the garage and an hour and a half later when I went to start it it just cranked with no start.
If the books and other references I looked at are correct, my Crank Sensor should be good by resistance measurement (175 ohms) between terminal 1 & 2 on the connector...I did take it out to make sure it was clean, and it was, but just for grins, I put in another "used but good one" that also measured good (168 ohms) with no joy. My Chilton's manual stated the resistance should be between 200 - 500 ohms, but other references stated that their new sensors measured 160 Ohms. No one has told me that my readings are bad...I have this problem posted here on Brickboard and on Volvo Forums.
I tried to use a timing light while my better half crank the engine over, but it doesn't turn fast enough to get any kind of reading...I wouldn't trust the accuracy anyhow. I'm convinced the timing is okay as the upper marks lined up when I set the balancer mark with the "0" degrees on the lower cover and I didn't touch the timing belt. and verified the marks as stated before.
I was leaning towards two things the ignition power stage amplifier and the crankshaft position sensor, but then I figured the spark was good enough to get the timing light to "pulse" (tested each wire) while I cranked it over and the resistance reading were good on the Crank sensor. Am I thinking right, or can one or both of these components still be faulty? Amplifier signal weak not providing a "hot" enough spark yet able to pulse the timing light? and my resistance readings are too low? I can get both parts through Volvo World for about $60.00
I'm about a day away from having the old girl towed to a Volvo mechanic I know...I hate admitting defeat though...
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Dear CMarino,
Hope you're well. The most likely culprits are the fuel pump relay and the fuel injection relay (aka radio interference suppression relay). The former is in the engine bay, against the inner fender wall (Passenger-side for non-turbo; most likely driver-side, turbo - both North American models). The fuel pump relay is on the central relay block. These relays are easy to access and easy to replace with spares ("known good" units).
A far less likely source of the problem is the coil. Inspect the contacts and clean them. Sometimes corrosion just a few atoms thick - and so invisible even under magnification - can disrupt a circuit.
The sudden shift from cranks and fires-up to cranks but doesn't fire up suggests this is an electrical fault involving fuel delivery, which is coincidental with - not caused by - the water pump change.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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I'd be doing much better if I could find the problem! but hey, that's what trouble shooting a 20-year old car is all about...My wife drove this car daily for nearly 17 years...never left us hanging. She's been garage kept and looks brand new. we recently bought a new car for my wife now I drive the Volvo...I think the old gal (the car, not my wife) is upset with us...
I am getting plenty of fuel to the fuel rail. I removed fuse 11 to just run fuel from the main fuel pump and got 20 ounces of fuel in 10 seconds time so I'm getting fuel. I went into detail on the fuel/injector checks on my initial post and won't bore you with the details again.
I checked the coil resistance and cleaned the contacts, but that's easy enough to do again so I will. I am getting spark, I question am I getting enough spark. I have read where a faulty ignition amplifier won't provide "enough" spark...again, I won't go into details as it is in my original post.
I'm with you...I don't see how changing the water pump caused this problem...it is just to simple a job, it's takes longer to get to the pump bolts than to actually change the pump! I'm going to kick my self in the butt if I disturbed something that I am not seeing...I've gone over my tracks a million times...
Thanks for the reply...any and all suggestions welcome!
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posted by
someone claiming to be Charles
on
Sat Nov 24 17:30 CST 2012 [ RELATED]
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It might not be related,but try to disconnect your Air mass meter connection and start the engine,if it starts you found the problem,good luck.
Charles.
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Charles, I did disconnect the Air Mass Meter and tried...no joy...
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Only two things I can think of from what you did:
Timing is off
Plug wires in the wrong place.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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Thanks for the quick response! I checked the wires 100 times, they are correct, plus didn't change them until after the car wouldn't start. She doesn't even try to turn over. I have the wires connected (from left to right when looking from the front) 4, 3, 1, 2. As soon as my wife gets home from work I'll have her crank the car and see if I can tell what the timing is. Is it possible to disturb the timing changing a water pump? I've changed the water pump in this car before, I've had it since 1994...it is so simple...To check time I lined up the marks on the outer lower cover to the timing mark on the balancer and removed the upper cover and checked the cam gear mark and it was on the money. Do you suggest I remove the upper and lower covers and check all the gear marks? Do you think the timing light will yield the results I'm looking for with the engine just cranking? Again, thanks. And I will be sure to post when I have success!!
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"She doesn't even try to turn over. I have the wires connected (from left to right when looking from the front) 4, 3, 1, 2."
Confused. Does it turn over and not start or not turn over at all?
Did you drain your battery?
Have you tried to jump start it?
Did you pull any turbo air hoses?
My turbo sounded like the battery was good but wouldn't start. Jumped it, fired right up. If it was running before this, and you didn't remove the timing belt then can't think of anything else.
With the timing light on #1, you should see the timing marks on the crank pulley at approx. 12degrees BTDC.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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Sorry, bad choice of words. The battery is strong and it cranks away, so yes, it turns over but she doesn't fire/start at all. I'm also keeping it on a trickle charger while I'm doing all of this troubleshooting. It was running fine before I changed the water pump. Started right up, drove it 50' into the garage, shut it down, changed the water pump, an hour and a half later went to start it up and no start...just cranked.
So I have a strong battery and did not pull any turbo air hoses, but will quadruple check!
Appreciate the timing info.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Charles
on
Sat Nov 24 18:13 CST 2012 [ RELATED]
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Did you take the timing belt off when changing the water pump? if yes make sure the #1 piston is at top dead center when reinstalling the belt.
If you did not remove the timing belt while changing the water pump,have you verified that the timing belt is turning when cranking now,maybe you have a sheared teeth on the belt !!
Charles.
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I did not take the timing belt off when I changed the water pump...there is no need to. Yes I did verify the timing belt is turning when cranking. Even though I didn't touch the belt I lined up the marks on the outer lower cover to the timing mark on the balancer and removed the upper cover and checked the cam gear mark and it was on the money. I looked at the belt as well and it looked in good shape.
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