Howdy all,

The white marks on the belt are there to make sure you have the cam/int/crank shaft cogs lined up correctly relative to each other, and they assume you have properly found TDC independently.

Here's how I usually do the alignment:

1. I remove the old timing belt and don't place any hope on the cogs staying properly aligned (and you can't rely on prior alignments if you're changing seals at the cam/int/crank shafts). You really need to be familiar and comfortable with finding TDC and not relying on the cogs staying put when you're working on the engine.

2. After doing all the other necessary work (changing seals, water pump, whatever) it's time to find TDC. It's useful to be comfortable with this process and not place faith on the idea of removing the old timing belt and replacing with a new timing belt, hoping that you don't turn the cogs. Disconnect the battery. Remove the spark plugs, place a long, thin dowel or long screwdriver in piston 1 hole (near front of engine) and turn the crankshaft manually until the piston elevates and pushes the dowel/screwdriver out of the hole--while at the same time observing the machined slot in the crankshaft for alignment with the calibration mark on the front of the engine just above the crankshaft. This coincidence of piston elevation and crankshaft slot alignment means the #1 piston is now at TDC. All that remains is to align the intermediate shaft with its calibration mark (3:00 position on cog/calibration mark, plus distributor pointing to piston 1 wire) and to align the camshaft with its calibration mark (11:55 position on cog/calibration mark, cam lobes elevated as seen through oil filler hole). Now you're at TDC.

3. Double check the intermediate shaft position by using a small allen key or other short, thin piece of metal--stick the allen key in the calibration zone and align the cog groove in the intermediate shaft with the key.

4. Grab the new timing belt. Visualize which way it goes on the engine, by noting the relationship of the three different stripe marks on the belt. I always start with the double stripe, actually fitting it into the cog groove matched with the crankshaft machined slot, wrapping the belt counterclockwise around the crankshaft and then feeding it up to the intermediate shaft. This guarantees you have the right cog groove relationship starting at the crankshaft, and proves that all the white stripes are relevant and useful. If you are careful and don't allow the belt to jump off the crankshaft you can then simply feed the belt up to the intermediate shaft and make sure the single stripe fits into the cog groove marked on the intermediate shaft cog for calibration. That gives you two points of reference that you can be certain are properly related to each other.

5. The final step is working the remaining belt material properly around the tensioner (the tensioner should be pinned back, as indicated in Bentley, etc.) and then up over the camshaft, where it should naturally match the white stripe on the belt with the camshaft cog calibration mark. If it doesn't match, check for excess slack between the cam/int or int/crank shafts.

6. Tension the belt and you should be fine. Reassemble the engine. Don't forget to replace the spark plugs.

I've done a lot of timing belts and this seems to be the best method for me. Embrace the art of confidently finding TDC.

kourt
87 245
austin, tx

Kind of silly to have the two lines on the Timing Belt when the alignment mark at the Crank Gear is not touched by the belt at all.

Use that Link that was previously sent to you .. same as this one.. http://www.threefattigers.com/Protocore/Volvo/TimingMarks.htm and all will be well
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

Hi,

Follow this:

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/B230FTimingBeltAlignment.htm

and what Volvodad says.

Travis

The lines on the belt don't matter, and seem to confuse more than they help.

Before removing the old belt, turn the crankshaft until the timing mark on the cam sprocket lines up with the indexing mark on the rear cover. The other sprockets are then properly aligned, so you can remove the old belt and replace with the new while being careful not to allow any sprockets/shafts to move while you ensure there is no appreciable slack between crank-to-intermediate, and intermediate-to-cam. (This is really the only useful function of the belt lines - to see if you have allowed excessive slack between sprockets).

After installation and tensioning, turn the crankshaft clockwise exactly 2X by marking a crank sprocket tooth with whiteout/paint/nailpolish and referencing it to something so you can bring it precisely to that position again. Confirm timing marks are still aligned. Done.
--
Bob: son's XC70, dtr's '94-940, my 81GL, 83-DL, 89-745(V8) and 98-S90. Also 77-MGB and some old motorcycles.