Hey guys,
Finished rebuilding my b20 engine and i'm having issues starting. Turning the key does nothing but get my fuel pump going. No engine turning over. Battery is fully charged. I didn't label wires cuz i thought I would remember lol. Can anyone help me out with the wiring. What goes where. Pictures of engine bays will help some. I'm thinking either the starter or alternator is wired wrong. Don't have a manual and i'm too lazy to look up wiring diagrams. This has been an ongoing project and i'm about ready to give up

"Don't have a manual and i'm too lazy to look up wiring diagrams."
Unfortunately, a statement like that isn't going to get you much sympathy or have people rushing to help.
From your post you appear to have an electric fuel pump which isn't standard. What else has been changed? A few details of the car and what you've tried, if you've actually tried anything, might at least be enough to get a suggestion or two. If you want engine bay images try Google Images. For Volvo workshop manuals go to http://www.volvoamazonpictures.se/. They are all there.

If you are "too lazy" to look up wiring diagrams I don't think you are going to have the energy to fix your car. Looking at wiring diagrams is about easiest thing I do when fixing a car,. FWIW your post also lacks detail as to model year, ignition and fuel system on your no start engine. B20 is a start, is it Djet, SU carbs, etc...
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Patrick, '68 220 (used to drive 240s) '53 GMC 4104

+1 To what Eric said.

Also, where are you located?

Hello,

I know it can be frustrating when an electrical problem crops up especially since these old Volvos do not have very complex wiring.

Recently a new to us DIY customer came by describing a non operating electric fuel pump for his 1970 Volvo 1800E fuel injected B20.

He assumed it was a bad fuel pump and bought an non original replacement fuel pump online from another Volvo specialty shop which also did not work.

I sold him a used fuel pump which he installed and again the fuel pump did not work.

He came back and wanted to buy all sorts of parts to throw at the problem, but I was finally able to talk him into bringing us the car so we could do a hands on job of diagnosing his problem(s).

When the car came to use the owner had re-installed the new non original fuel pump back on the car.

It turned out to be a broken wire and because he had already installed and used the new pump he was not able to return it when he probably did not need a new pump that cost him over $200.00.

The cost of his repair at our shop including the tow was less than $200.00.

So you might consider getting the car to a shop that has someone who is familiar with your Volvo.

Short of getting the car to a professional, you could ask NICELY if a fellow brickboarder could come by and help you out.

Offering a good meal and a cool/hot drink wouldn't hurt either.

Good luck!!


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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

Just so everyone gets a better understanding. I bought the car a year and some months ago. Car was running very badly so I knew I would have to rebuild the engine. So I did...I was told its a b20 from a 74 120. It has a vacuum advance distributor, dual su carbs, b21 pistons, F head. I finished all the engine work, dropped it in and a week later I deployed to Afghanistan. I just got back recently and now i'm stuck with the build. I forgotten mostly everything about what I've done to the car. The labels that I did write up has deteriorated so I don't know where to put what. I'm not very electrical savvy hence the reason i'm asking for help. The only electrical leads that I need to figure out is what goes to the starter and alternator. I know that the large red wire goes from positive lead of the battery to the stud on top the solenoid. The small red wire is from the ignition switch and goes to the top spade of the solenoid. The two black wires i'm assuming goes to the starter as well but not sure where to connect them. I'm also assuming they are ground being that they are black. That is essentially what i need help with...where to put those black wires.

Hello,

A picture is really worth a thousand words.

The 2 black wires are not grounds but actually supply power to the ignition switch and fuse block and they need to be connected to the same post as the battery wire at the starter.

The red wire from the ignition switch that you have plugged into the starter solenoid needs to be moved to the terminal on the solenoid that is under the post that the battery wire and the 2 black wires are attached.

Speaking of grounds, make sure you have a good ground strap that goes between the body and the engine before starting or you water temperature gauge capillary tube or you choke cables become the ground source which is not good for either.

The stock location for the ground strap is on the passenger side of car attached to 1 of the bell housing bolts.

Good luck!
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

Ok, so I definitely have fuel and spark. Tested for spark and its very strong and bright. Engine still isn't starting though. What should I try next? Should I try rotating the distributor while cranking?

Tim;

...not much to add except to confirm (all of) Eric's recommendations...keep a positive attitude and this Forum will help you get your car purring!

...and thank you for your service to our country!

Thank you, I appreciate it. Got it all connected and the engine turns over, but no start. I definitely have fuel so I guess i'll start with spark.

How do you know you have Fuel? Fuel at the pump does not mean fuel at the carbs....A teaspoonful down each carb throat ( after you pulll the filter) will tell you if you have spark pretty quick. If it runs and dies, you need to try it again a few times until the engine spins fat enough to bring fuel up to and into the carb fuel reservoirs. Keep it simple, B18/20 that has been sitting often needs a little help getting fuel up. re spark. 101 is to pull the main lead that goes into the center of the dizzy cap, hold it with rubber handled grips (shock hazard) so that the end is 1/8" away from good ground( engine block), and have someone else crank the engine
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Patrick, '68 220 (used to drive 240s) '53 GMC 4104

Have you had the distributor out? You might have put it back 180º out. Easily done and just as easy to fix. Note rotor position. Pull out the distributor enough to disengage the drive dog,rotor will turn freely, rotate the engine exactly one turn and then reseat the distributor with rotor in original position.