It might be tiny Bubbles that may work out. Especially with Gravity bleeding. You could try Pushing the Pistons back semi quickly to force the air and Fluid back into the Master. Make sure the Master isn't full or it will overflow.
Start with the rears.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/

Just use the brakes, and there's a 90% chance the issue will resolve itself. The pads and rotors just need to wear into each other. I just had the same problem on my 142, and even though I'm experienced with this phenomenon, I still thought something was wrong. But after drive the car a while the peddle is right up where it should be.

Now you just need to fix your booster......

Hi Dennis,

Although it is hard to quantify when it comes to pedal travel, I think this may be a phenomenon you will get used to after about your 12th brake job or so. I don't mean just pads, but pads and calipers.

Most of the pedal travel is getting the pads to contact the rotor. Remember the hydraulic advantage is translated to motion distance by the cylinder area. With new calipers with new piston seals, nicely greased hardware, and fresh shims, the pads rebound from the rotor much more easily when released, so you have to make up for that new travel.

The effect is-- you miss your high, hard brake pedal. For a few days. Just remember it was high and hard because the pads were all but dragging on the rotors and stuck there well. As the shims take a set and the pads bed in, you may even feel some "improvement."

It works just as well. You might even hear squeaks you didn't hear before in the pedal return spring or brake light switch.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Wisdom comes with age, but sometimes age comes alone.

"Not having power assist on this car"

So you have no vacuum brake booster? Even my '76 DL had that...I am pretty sure.

Even replacing the master cylinder, as other have told me, you might still have more travel than you expect. It might not be worse than before but your perception changes from driving other cars over that time...I still do not believe them but I will do another bleeding next weekend before the snows start.

For you, I would drive it at least a week and then do another bleeding. Allows the bubbles to self purge if they are in the junction block by migrating up to the MC.

No shame in a Cherokee...now if you said Grand Cherokee, I might make fun of you. If you said Jeep Compass, well, that does not bear discussing.

Just to confirm that you're not alone, I did a full brake job on my -93 240 a while ago and replaced almost everything except the master cylinder, and to my surprise the already low braking pedal remained exactly the same. Brakes work well though, but I would still like to have slightly less pedal travel before they engage.

My suspected culprit is either the master cylinder or the servo unit. Any other experiences?